Fj60 1.9tdi swap

[Frankster]

So my FJ60, 3F have been standing for a while. I get about 5km/l (12mpg) at altitude and can't afford to drive it much. Want to use it for work and back. Decided to test the fuel consumption and power with a VW AHF 1.9tdi. I searched online and can't seem to find a similar swap except on FJ40s. Did my research a bit on the weight, gearing and aerodynamics. All should be good so I decided to give it a shot.

 

[Frankster]

AHF engines are cheap this side of the pond. This one putting me back about $1000 with low mileage and perfect condition.

 

[Frankster]

Keeping things simple, I changed the semi-electronic injection pump to full mechanical. Pump I used is a Bosch from a Land Rover 300tdi.

 

[Frankster]

I started with crank adapter design and 3D printed a test fit. Will be using the Toyota flywheel, clutch and bellhousing without any modifations. Reason being so I can go back to Toyota without even modifying the OE components and even the engine mounts will stay in the stock location on the chassis.

 

[Frankster]

Adapter plates on the engine and transmission sides are done. Waiting for steel crank adapter to be machined so I can line them up via the clutch and pilot bearing and start welding. Gap should be about 50-60mm to give me clearance for the vacuum pump on the cam.

 

[klip]

How much horsepower does that engine make?

 

[Frankster]

How much horsepower does that engine make?

About 110hp factory

 

[timexlost]

As a TDI owner i'm super interested in this!

 

[BurntToast]

Very cool swap, plan on tuning it up?

 

[Lead Head]

Interesting swap.

Just to be "that guy", how much gasoline would all of the money you'll spend on this swap buy?

 

[fjdiesel]

Pretty mild upgrades and you can be putting out 200-220 hp. Keeping it cool is the issue when you turn them up. But, the 60 has a pretty large radiator, so it may cool very well.

 

[AirheadNut]

Neat project! I think this might be the first TDI swapped 60-series I've read about, there are a few 40's and at least one 55 I know of in progress, and I've got an LJ78 with an ALH.

How do you plan to center the engine to the transmission with your adapter plate? The plate I used originally on my swap had too much runout and caused clutch and transmission damage (blew out two clutches, an input shaft bearing and pilot bushing within the space of about 35k miles). Not sure about the H42/H55 transmissions, but the R150/R151's are quite sensitive and require around 0.005" or less of runout between the crankshaft and input shaft.

The little 1.9 should have no trouble pushing around an FJ60, my LJ78 weighs as much or more than a 60-series and it does just fine. I'm still running the VW electronic injection system so my setup will be a bit different, but I get around 23-24mpg US and can cruise comfortably at 110-125km/h depending on conditions.

If you plan to do any tuning I would recommend fitting the largest possible intercooler and running a reasonably big turbo with plenty of boost. These engines can put out some impressive power figures but easily run hot when pushed hard. Are you keeping a VNT turbo or moving to waste gate since you're going MTDI?

 

[Frankster]

Interesting swap.

Just to be "that guy", how much gasoline would all of the money you'll spend on this swap buy?

I sold the old beat down 3F for exactly what I paid for the tdi so there is no going back. I'm doing it myself and on the cheap. Only had to buy the steel for the adapters, machining and gauges. I actually did the calculation and it would be 5 full tanks of fuel more or less. With the 3F, those 5 tanks would have netted me a whoping 1500miles driving conservatively.

 

[Frankster]

I'm planning to centre the transmission input shaft with the pilot bearing and clutch, thus it will be a fine balance, but I have seen it being done successfully.

 

[Frankster]

 

[Frankster]

I 3D printed a sleeve that go over the input shaft to give me the correct input shaft depth as this is still my only unknown. Now when I push the trans through the clutch and into the pilot bearing, I will have the correct depth as well as my centre.

 

[Frankster]

My 3D printer was invaluable for making spacers, bearing press guides and clutch alignment tool. These would otherwise have taken up a lot of time to manufacture. Even my mock-up crank spacer helped me a lot to line things up and stategise.

 

[Lead Head]

I'm planning to centre the transmission input shaft with the pilot bearing and clutch, thus it will be a fine balance, but I have seen it being done successfully.

You would be surprised about how poorly that can locate a transmission. We did an engine swap with a DIY adapter plate before, and we thought the clutch and pilot bearing would hold everything aligned while we bolted it down. Didn't take long to cook the input bearing in the transmission because of alignment issues.

Flip the engine on its face, so the flywheel end is pointing up. Take the transfercase off the transmission to make it lighter and less awkward, and then set the transmission down into engine with the clutch and pilot bearing installed. You will find that you will be able to slide the transmission left/right/up/down wayyy more than you'd think you should be able to despite the shaft being rigidly locked in the engine.

My recommendation would be to insert the transmission into the engine as described above, and then slide the transmission around with a dial indicator on the X and Y axis. Find the maximum amount the transmission will slide around in each axis, and then carefully set it in the middle of those distances. That should minimize loads on the input bearing.

 

[Frankster]

You would be surprised about how poorly that can locate a transmission. We did an engine swap with a DIY adapter plate before, and we thought the clutch and pilot bearing would hold everything aligned while we bolted it down. Didn't take long to cook the input bearing in the transmission because of alignment issues.

Flip the engine on its face, so the flywheel end is pointing up. Take the transfercase off the transmission to make it lighter and less awkward, and then set the transmission down into engine with the clutch and pilot bearing installed. You will find that you will be able to slide the transmission left/right/up/down wayyy more than you'd think you should be able to despite the shaft being rigidly locked in the engine.

My recommendation would be to insert the transmission into the engine as described above, and then slide the transmission around with a dial indicator on the X and Y axis. Find the maximum amount the transmission will slide around in each axis, and then carefully set it in the middle of those distances. That should minimize loads on the input bearing.

This is a very good idea, but I don't have the means to hang the engine Flywheel facing up without building a custom stand. My idea is to hang the transmission on a electronic scale. Then I push it into the engine and correct the weight via my chain hoist. This should cancel out any vertical thrust and then I can measure the horison thrust to cancel that out also.

 

[DrRock]

View attachment 4075075

View attachment 4075077

I would be a little concerned moving the moment load on the bearing that far outboard, especially with the loads from the flywheel and pressure plate. Looking forward to seeing how this works out from a durability perspective.