- Joined
- Nov 14, 2013
- Threads
- 66
- Messages
- 567
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
- Website
- www.rocketcitycruisers.com
Guys I wanted to take a minute to share my experience with you on the blower motor in my piggie. Since i bought my truck, the blower had only worked on high and the heat works good enough that i was either roasting or freezing, so i knew i wanted to tackle this problem. I had done a little research and determined the resistor was bad, which is why it only worked on high. I searched around a little and found a NOS resistor from City Racer and purchased it. I didnt do a good enough job reading what i was buying and the one i got was only a 2 speed and not a 3 speed resistor. I could have easily enough wired it in and made it work but then i would only have low and high speed. Being a bit of an anal retentive a******, i wanted it to work as designed, so took back to searching.
I disassembled my blower motor and pulled my old resistor out, and it was completely toast BUT the assembly was in good shape so i decided to save it. I went to my local parts store and grabbed a replacement blower motor resistor for a mid 90's chevy truck (part BWD-RU904) and thought i could just rig it in line with the original wiring and make it work. After i got it home and unboxed i realized it was earily similar in build to the OEM resistor i pulled out. SO out came the soldering iron and i went to town on it.
Took about an hour to move all the components over but it worked out really well, and the blower works PERFECT on all speeds now. So here is a little write up on procedures:
*Remove blower from the truck. There are 3 bolts under the hood and 1 in the truck under the passenger kick panel (also holds on the air duct the goes to the heater box). The wiring harness is under the motor and easy to get to once the motor is loose. Also, i took the ignition coil loose and shifted it out of the way just to give me some more room. When the blower is free, pull it away from the firewall a little and disconnect the fresh air door cable from inside and that will free the motor completely from the truck.
*remove the resistor from the bottom: 2 screws on the bottom pull it out and unplug the harness from the blower and take it all. Pretty simple.
*remove old coils: if the resistor has any existing coil wire still on it, cut them off and discard them.
*remove coils from new resistor: This part is a little tricky because you want to remove the coils without cutting them off because you will need the lead wires as long as you can get them. They are just held on my a couple crimps that can be cut off with some patience and some sharp cutters. Also take the one way power resistor on the medium speed coil as well. (it will make sense when you see the pix).
*solder new coils on old resistor housing: on the old resistor, the blue wire with black trace is the hot wire that powers the motor; both resistors will end there. The blue wire yellow trace is medium and blue wire white trace is low. The coil that is tight will go from low to the end and the coil that is loosely coiled (with the extra resistor) will go to the medium. The soldier on mine was in good shape but dirty. Best option is to take a knife and scrape some of the top layer of crap to get to some clean solder. The solder that is on the OE relay is HARD AS CRAP! I had my gun at 850 and it took a while for it to liquefy so be patient. Once its ooey gooey slide the new resister pins in place. Be sure to install them in a what that they dont touch each other. There is plenty of room in the blower housing for this so dont worry about it being to tall or wide.
I disassembled my blower motor and pulled my old resistor out, and it was completely toast BUT the assembly was in good shape so i decided to save it. I went to my local parts store and grabbed a replacement blower motor resistor for a mid 90's chevy truck (part BWD-RU904) and thought i could just rig it in line with the original wiring and make it work. After i got it home and unboxed i realized it was earily similar in build to the OEM resistor i pulled out. SO out came the soldering iron and i went to town on it.
Took about an hour to move all the components over but it worked out really well, and the blower works PERFECT on all speeds now. So here is a little write up on procedures:
*Remove blower from the truck. There are 3 bolts under the hood and 1 in the truck under the passenger kick panel (also holds on the air duct the goes to the heater box). The wiring harness is under the motor and easy to get to once the motor is loose. Also, i took the ignition coil loose and shifted it out of the way just to give me some more room. When the blower is free, pull it away from the firewall a little and disconnect the fresh air door cable from inside and that will free the motor completely from the truck.
*remove the resistor from the bottom: 2 screws on the bottom pull it out and unplug the harness from the blower and take it all. Pretty simple.
*remove old coils: if the resistor has any existing coil wire still on it, cut them off and discard them.
*remove coils from new resistor: This part is a little tricky because you want to remove the coils without cutting them off because you will need the lead wires as long as you can get them. They are just held on my a couple crimps that can be cut off with some patience and some sharp cutters. Also take the one way power resistor on the medium speed coil as well. (it will make sense when you see the pix).
*solder new coils on old resistor housing: on the old resistor, the blue wire with black trace is the hot wire that powers the motor; both resistors will end there. The blue wire yellow trace is medium and blue wire white trace is low. The coil that is tight will go from low to the end and the coil that is loosely coiled (with the extra resistor) will go to the medium. The soldier on mine was in good shape but dirty. Best option is to take a knife and scrape some of the top layer of crap to get to some clean solder. The solder that is on the OE relay is HARD AS CRAP! I had my gun at 850 and it took a while for it to liquefy so be patient. Once its ooey gooey slide the new resister pins in place. Be sure to install them in a what that they dont touch each other. There is plenty of room in the blower housing for this so dont worry about it being to tall or wide.
