FJ43 clutch slave replacement
- Thread starter Volaric
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 641
- Messages
- 17,887
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Easy, you have the mounting bracket upside down.
- Thread starter
- #4
Alright I’m back after also swaping the master due to bad seals.
Yay rust!
Now I’m stuck where I cannot get the slave rod to stay extended with the return spring installed.
Essentially without the spring the system works as it should, disengaging the clutch etc.
When I add the spring to the space cylinder I lose all pedal as the slave cylinder rod can’t extend the needed distance to properly work.
Spring is the SOR 018-12B
New master and slave cylinder all vacuum bled because bubbles
Ideas?
Yay rust!
Now I’m stuck where I cannot get the slave rod to stay extended with the return spring installed.
Essentially without the spring the system works as it should, disengaging the clutch etc.
When I add the spring to the space cylinder I lose all pedal as the slave cylinder rod can’t extend the needed distance to properly work.
Spring is the SOR 018-12B
New master and slave cylinder all vacuum bled because bubbles
Ideas?
Last edited:
Your spring is way heavier duty than the one on my rig. Maybe your new master is leaking internally - new parts aren't always good. If the slave was bad it would leak externally. Mine spring 72 looks like 018-12A.
Last edited:
The spring seats the piston in the bottom of bore to insure a full stroke of the slave. It sounds like your rod isnt long enuff.
Per the FSM. set the pedal height, pedal free play, and then adjust the rod.
Per the FSM. set the pedal height, pedal free play, and then adjust the rod.
- Thread starter
- #7
Slave and rod are;
018-05D
018-99B
Pedaling and master are set
I’ve got the clutch push rod flair but set to the maximum on the threads
When I get that return spring set does it compress everything I think to far.
I’m going to go crush a beer and noodle.
Appreciate the help
- Thread starter
- #8
I wonder if
Is it supposed to be a one way valve systems?
I wonder if the return spring is to strong and is pushing the fluid back up to the master
Is it supposed to be a one way valve systems?
You said the clutch works without the spring, that implies to me the hydraulic works and the system is more or less adjusted properly. The spring does sort of push the fluid back to the master - but I think the important factor is to keep the clutch fork/throw out bearing from riding on the pressure plate. Most hardware stores have an assortment of springs - select one about 1/3 or so as strong - easy check for a few bucks.
Last edited:
There's no one way valve. It pushes fluid back in to the resoiviour. Imo, if the piston isn't seated then adjusting the rod would be a moving target. As Charlie mentioned, the spring should pull the throw out bearing away from the pp and the adjustment rod determines the gap between the t/b and pp and sets where the pedal starts to release or disengage the clutch.
I see this is a FJ43, so it's not US spec. Foreign rebuilders do weird stuff. Did you correct the slaves mounting position as @cruisermatt mentioned? Are you sure all the clutch components are correct for your model or setup? Something as simple as having a wrong part like using the wrong pivot ball, fork, pp and such, can effect the throw of the fork and make the rod not long enuff.
- Thread starter
- #12
That I’m not 100% sure on but I did do the swap that cruiser Matt suggested originally.
What im thinking now is that the return spring is either to short or strong.
The second picture is when the push rod is fully extended and the race bear is against that pressure plate
- Thread starter
- #15
That’s wild on how depressed yours is in comparison.
I wonder if there is something more going on with the internals on mine, clutch fork / pressure plate, clutch.
I did check and I’ve got both the master and slave rods extended as far as they can go for maximum travel potential. And with that, by adding the return spring that seats the slave rod completely (as it should) I can’t get the system to disengage the clutch at all. Even with pumping to try and build pressure.
My guess is that it had the same issue which is why the slave was setup backwards to reduce the total needed travel distance….
This one’s a goober
- Thread starter
- #16
018-05D
I think this is where I’m at, and I’ve got all new stuff ordered and delivered for a local shop to go through and make it all more better.
Or verify that some tom foolery is a foot!
I wonder if you have the right pushrod...
- Thread starter
- #18
For your suggestion flipping should it have been the single arrow or the double arrow.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 641
- Messages
- 17,887
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
You now have the slave cylinder mounted correctly, and you have the correct spring.
The pushrod normally does not sit at full extension like that. The pushrod threads usually protrude through the end of the fork and stick through about 1".
It also looks like you have a substantial amount of wear on the pivot of your clutch fork from having the incorrect pushrod end previously.
on Non-US cruisers all of this stuff is usually all completely worn out or destroyed.
Pull the lower clutch inspection cover and get some good pics in there too.
The pushrod normally does not sit at full extension like that. The pushrod threads usually protrude through the end of the fork and stick through about 1".
It also looks like you have a substantial amount of wear on the pivot of your clutch fork from having the incorrect pushrod end previously.
on Non-US cruisers all of this stuff is usually all completely worn out or destroyed.
Pull the lower clutch inspection cover and get some good pics in there too.
Clutch Slave/Release Cylinder OEM Hardware Kit 1975-1984
Includes: Spring - 90506-16475 Bolt, x2 - 91611-41055 / 91611-61055 OEM Toyota parts! If you have any questions about compatibility or installation, please do not hesitate to reach out to us for assistance! We're here to make sure you get the right part!
cruisermatts.com
New OEM Clutch Fork Parts Kit 1975-1984 2F
Fits: 1975-1984 2F Includes new clutch fork, clutch fork boot, throw-out hub, throw-out hub clips. All parts are new genuine Toyota. For slave cylinder bolts and return spring, see: Clutch Slave Hardware Kit If you have any questions about compatibility or installation, please do not hesitate...
cruisermatts.com
Last edited:
I'm wondering if you have the "3-speed" slave pushrod. It has a closed acorn nut at the fork end. It's supposed to go with the pressed steel clutch fork.
The "4-speed" slave pushrod threads through the end of it's acorn nut, and exits through the hole in the cast iron clutch fork.