Fj40 steering and carb ID help!

[Chicagomax77]

All,

I have a ‘77 fj40 imported from Columbia (not by me) and I am trying to sort through some needs, and having a helluva time identifying parts, since most are not stock! In order of importance:

1) I need to identify the power steering gearbox so I can order the right pitman shaft seal bearings as they let go last week! I have done research on this forum and I “may”(?!) have a mini truck version, as it’s 4 bolts. But it says “Toyoda” on the side so how do I know which part number?

2) I rebuilt the (Aisin?) carb using a rebuild kit from CruiserCorp, which unfortunately was about $60 down the drain because most of the parts didn’t fit. I’m having an issue that came about all of the sudden where the car runs super rich after idling for a random, long period of time, so I’ve narrowed down to stick float (but I’ve adjusted multiple times and it didn’t help), or leaking jet (guessing this is my issue). Any idea on which carb I have so I can (re!)order the right rebuild kit?


Thanks all for the expertise in getting the old girl back on the road!!

Max

 

[Chicagomax77]

…more carb photos.

 

[cruisermatt]

That’s an aftermarket carb. Probably Chinese.
Return line pinched off pointing right at al exhaust manifold is super dangerous.
Replace carb with an OEM unit that doesn’t have return line drilled/tapped first.

Steering box is either 60, 70 or 80 series. Hard to tell from pics. All are very similar.

 

[mattressking]

1. Fj60/62 steering box. Early 60 box has symmetrical mounting bolt pattern, later 60 has assymmetrical mounting bolt pattern. The 80 box is slightly larger visually and casting is different on the inlet/outlet. Look at yours or post better photos then buy the rebuild kit that way with two notes:

1a. The aftermarket rebuild kit on rockauto, etc., is sufficient.​

1b. The delrin (IIRC) outer sealing rings should and need to be sourced from Toyota, they fit better, PN: 90562-67002 (Qty 2). I'd recommend freezing the cross shaft with rings prior to pressing into housing, folks have cut these when attempting to insert.​

2. Aftermarket clone of non-emissions equipped 2F carburetor. Note the tag that says H3662, if you Google that....it pops up that way too. The Keyster rebuild kit for 80-87 is sufficient along with 85-92 3F rebuild kit, the differences are negligible, what you want are leather Accelerator Pump and to assemble correctly and set float height correctly. I recommend dumping this carb, it has a few problem areas that can cause headaches later. I'd ditch it but the correct Aisan carburetor needs to match the throttle connection, choke line and air cleaner before the right one is recommended.

2a. You rebuilt the carb so its hard to say what was done right and wrong or what is missing.​

2b. Verify fuel is in middle of sight glass.​

2c. Verify choke is hooked up (I see the brass ferrule but I can't say if it is or not).​

2d. You say rich condition after running, but what does that mean? Does it stop running? Does it smell like fuel?​

2e. Connect a vacuum gauge when its running, we need empirical data to actually find out what the engine is doing to start.​

2f. Get a timing light and connect it and verify you are at 7* at idle (below 950rpms) before starting to delve into operating issues.​

 

[Chicagomax77]

That’s an aftermarket carb. Probably Chinese.
Return line pinched off pointing right at al exhaust manifold is super dangerous.
Replace carb with an OEM unit that doesn’t have return line drilled/tapped first.

Steering box is either 60, 70 or 80 series. Hard to tell from pics. All are very similar.

Thank you for the quick reply! I agree- based on my research it probably is Chinese. Has anyone had luck getting a rebuild kit for those?

As for Steering box: Is there a way I can help identify which exactly it is? Or do I need to disassemble first? Asking because I'd like to have the replacement seals available before i disassemble so I can reassemble as accurately as possible (not have to wait a week for parts). Of course, if there's no way to tell, I'll dig in!

Thanks again!

 

[Chicagomax77]

1. Fj60/62 steering box. Early 60 box has symmetrical mounting bolt pattern, later 60 has assymmetrical mounting bolt pattern. The 80 box is slightly larger visually and casting is different on the inlet/outlet. Look at yours or post better photos then buy the rebuild kit that way with two notes:

1a. The aftermarket rebuild kit on rockauto, etc., is sufficient.​

1b. The delrin (IIRC) outer sealing rings should and need to be sourced from Toyota, they fit better, PN: 90562-67002 (Qty 2). I'd recommend freezing the cross shaft with rings prior to pressing into housing, folks have cut these when attempting to insert.​

2. Aftermarket clone of non-emissions equipped 2F carburetor. Note the tag that says H3662, if you Google that....it pops up that way too. The Keyster rebuild kit for 80-87 is sufficient along with 85-92 3F rebuild kit, the differences are negligible, what you want are leather Accelerator Pump and to assemble correctly and set float height correctly. I recommend dumping this carb, it has a few problem areas that can cause headaches later. I'd ditch it but the correct Aisan carburetor needs to match the throttle connection, choke line and air cleaner before the right one is recommended.

2a. You rebuilt the carb so its hard to say what was done right and wrong or what is missing.​

2b. Verify fuel is in middle of sight glass.​

2c. Verify choke is hooked up (I see the brass ferrule but I can't say if it is or not).​

2d. You say rich condition after running, but what does that mean? Does it stop running? Does it smell like fuel?​

2e. Connect a vacuum gauge when its running, we need empirical data to actually find out what the engine is doing to start.​

2f. Get a timing light and connect it and verify you are at 7* at idle (below 950rpms) before starting to delve into operating issues.​

Thank you very much for your reply and excellent tips! I took a (better) pic of the mounting bolts- they certainly look symmetrical to me so I’ll assume that is an early 60 (e.g. ‘81) box and order parts accordingly. Thank you!



As for the carb: I’ve owned this FJ for almost 2 years, and it always fired right up, ran perfectly, idled endlessly. Then one day out of nowhere, after idling maybe 3 mins it started to stumble heavily, with black soot and smoke coming from exhaust. I could get it to run by giving it gas, but without that it would stumble/die. After doing a slight rebuild (because most parts wouldn’t fit), the fuel is sometimes in middle of sight glass, sometimes below, sometimes way above. I keep adjusting the float but it doesn’t seem to produce reliable results(I.e. will reduce bowl fuel….until it doesn’t anymore- happens reliably after driving 30mph for about 5 mins, then idling). Ill research the build kit you provided and hopefully one of them will look like a winner! Oh- and choke was just disconnected for one of those pics in a stage of disassembly- everything is fully connected now.

 

[65swb45]

If the kit you got was for a 2F carb, regardless of vintage, the critical component of your inquiry, the needle and seat would be the same.

That said, if your float level is inconsistent, it could be your float. And it's not just a matter of whether it floats or not. I have had almost a dozen carbs come through the shop where the arm of the float is not parallel to the body. In three cases, it was off enough that the float was rubbing against the wall of the fuel bowl. That would cause an inconsistent float level.

Out of 1400 rebuilds, that’s not a lot. But it is statistically possible.