Hello everyone! I'm a bit of a novice and would appreciate any help. I noticed my 79' FJ40 Fresh air smelled like it was pulling its air directly from the engine bay (and it is!). I have approximately a 1/4" gap between my heater blower and external vent on the car. What's the proper way to seal this? In some images and threads on the forum it looks like I'm missing a piece, or shroud or gasket of some sort. However, looking at my Haynes repair manual...there doesn't seem to be any piece there? I'm trying to figure out what was originally there instead of trying to stuff something random in the gap to close it.
FJ40 Front Blower - Sealing Fresh Air Vent
- Thread starter ElephantRebel
- Start date
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You need to use something gas fume and heat resistant. Measure your gap. Use like wax papered cardboard to make a frame inside and out the right height/thickness + say 1/8" and size of the perimeter - fill it with 100% silicon, let it cure.
Just looked at my 72 that the heater has never been off as far as I know since 82. It has like a thin sheet metal plate oversize cover plate, might be some gasket or foam on the inside
- Thread starter
- #7
could you post a pic of yours?
I'm sure this subject has come up b4. You might search.
Hard to get a good pic. Where the sheet metal tab is its tight the other side near the firewall appears to be a 1/8 gap shining a light up threw the vents. Maybe some finger applied silicon calk or perhaps I can work some gorilla tape around the perimeter.
This is the blower off of my jan '72. It had some form of foam gasket. I can't seem to find these foam pieces or rubber gaskets on the microfiche set I got from a local Toyota dealer in the early eighties. The set shows a lot of body rubber and loads of other gaskets and such. Maybe one of the real old timers has access to additional info. I believe SOR carries some form of generic foam gasket refurbished kit for the blower and heater units.
Can you get any adjustment to blower position out of the four mounting bolts?
- Thread starter
- #12
Yeah this is gap
sadly. this is the gap i have with the blower pushed over as far as i can get it
I am rebuilding a heating system for an FJ40 and bought this set of foam gaskets about 6 months ago… have not opened it yet to see exactly what is in there but check this out…. A bit pricey but in my disassembly and cleaning of the old heater box and blower, this set seems to be complete.
That does look like a pricy complete kit..
OP if you can loosen the heater to make the gap bigger - it will be much easier to install a closed cell foam gasket, then slide the heater back over for that crush fit. I had an blue counterfeit Ensolite closed cell foam backpacking pad 1/2" thick that I made tons of spacer/dampers/vibration isolators for all kinds of stuff
OP if you can loosen the heater to make the gap bigger - it will be much easier to install a closed cell foam gasket, then slide the heater back over for that crush fit. I had an blue counterfeit Ensolite closed cell foam backpacking pad 1/2" thick that I made tons of spacer/dampers/vibration isolators for all kinds of stuff
On my 79-80 I can’t quite get what controls the fresh air mix, the clip ( A ) supports a cable ( Fresh Pull ? ) that connects to ( B ) routing the fresh air up and out through ( C ) ?
Seem about right ?
wimberosa
SILVER Star
Here it is for the US model LHD and a 200L heater tube. This rig originally had A/C on it so the big tube might look slightly different from yours....but the pull cable is just routed through the plastic mesh cover over the area you are labelling (a) and (b). This clip is used in the orientation you were suspecting.
So it seems the previous owner took out a factory ac unit and installed the blower. The hole through the firewall ( which looks like it was cut with a butter knife ) is for the fan segment only, nothing has been cut for the fresh air gate. Which I suppose in principle works ok-ish, you just wont be getting any recirc of air from inside the cabin
& repurposed the gate fresh pull cable as the heater valve cable. i wondered why it was so long.
I like the square foam or plastic thick enough to fill the void and seali it with silicon idea. Or remove the blower assembly and see if slides over to cover the gap.
By the way here is the part number for the 1 ohm wire wound resistor in case you ever want to replace that huge ceramic resistor.
L50J1R0
Easy to install: Install heat shrink before soldering joints. Use solder Flux and solder. Once it's soldered on, used alcohol to clean( to removed flux). And lastly slide heat shrink and shrink it with a heat gun. It almost look like the original one.
By the way here is the part number for the 1 ohm wire wound resistor in case you ever want to replace that huge ceramic resistor.
L50J1R0
Easy to install: Install heat shrink before soldering joints. Use solder Flux and solder. Once it's soldered on, used alcohol to clean( to removed flux). And lastly slide heat shrink and shrink it with a heat gun. It almost look like the original one.