FJ 62 Fuel issues (1 Viewer)

[LAMBCRUSHER]

have you adjusted the valves? Done a compression test?

 

[too tall]

ok guys
I put in a used fpr and it solved the fuel issue for two days then it started back. the ove heating is a combination of the fuel and me being an idiot. i was checking the coolent at the radiator cap and it looked full. it was two gal low and i didn't realize this till i opened the thermostat housing to replace the stat and leaking gasket ( where all the coolent went) eg im dumb. anyone noticed that u can't ad fluid unless u disconnect the top hose? any way i also realized that my cold start timer is broken clean off. could this be part of the fuel issue? anyway im ordering one of those the next paycheck

If a used FPR fixed the over fueling issue for a couple of days then I would focus on that part of the fuel system .

 

[ward93]

The compression is great compared to other fj 62s I've driven but I haven't tested it yet taking it to a guy for that soon

 

[ward93]

ok update time. as already stated over heating issue was fixed with a new tstat and a leak fix. fuel issue still present and worse. I've tracked it town to 1 of 3 or 4 things. the truck will now only run for about 10 seconds with very high rpm and dies. I've replaced the cold start timer switch and it seams to have helped it start even when hot now but it will only run for like I said 10 seconds no matter what I do. so 1 I think my tps is shot. so a new one is in the mail for good measure. 2 if issue is still present, it is either the o2 sensors which need to be replaced any way as they are old af. but I doubt they are the main problem as I've never heard of them causing such a major issue just rough running. 3 my afm could be bad but its already been replaced by a used one from cruiser parts and I'm having a hard time testing it as per the fsm. and lastly I may just go ahead and despot since I live in an area where I can and the erg and smog components look shifty as crap and may also be the issue. since they are so dam expensive to replace I might as well bite the preverbal bullet and desmog it. if I ever again live in an area where they smog test I'm pretty sure I can just get a antique registration. or fake it with a by pass pipe, though I can cross that bridge if it comes to it. so guys what do you think. new tps, test afm, test erg/ desmog. what I do know is. starter is new, compression is good, and Fuel. pressure is normal. issue must be related to ecu operation but not the ecu unit its self. eliminating smog parts also eliminates many fail and potential leak points. the 3fe was designed to run optimally with out the smog unit. anyone think its worth it to track down a non us ecu for desmog of can u tune the ecu some how so it doesn't forget overtime the battery goes dead.

 

[ward93]

Adjusted the TPS as per the FSM and all issues seamed to be solved. I need to upgrade the screws that hold on the TPS but it seams to be incredibly important to the ECU. I'm missing the bottom screw which I let it get lose and worse over time till it just wouldn't stay running. who knew! I never would have found it except it finally got noticeably loose and wiggled. I could kill what ever PO that lost that screw. It's caused me years of chasing a growing issue.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

CEL = check engine light
ECU = engine control unit
tps MUST be adjusted and verified with ohm meter...

 

[ward93]

Yep took me a bit to figure out the ohm thing but it seamed to work.

 

[ward93]

So guys. Have new Allen bolts and TPS adjusted. Also solved problem with my chat ole canister and she runs better than in a long time. One small problem I can't figure out yet. So what does this sound like truck starts fine and runs fine cold. But once hot when trying to start it revs up and stalls almost imediatly. And won't start. But here is the super wierd thing. If I hold the ignition down while starting for maybe five secconds after it starts to rev, it starts perfectly and runs fine with no stalling.

 

[ward93]

So found my vaccum leak. It's this connection pipe, it seams to be loose at the base, what the hell is this thing

 

[Kleatus]

That's your pcv hose. If yours is like mine was, you'll want to replace the valve cover grommet, pcv valve and hose.

 

[ward93]

Where can u get that part? Is it oem? I'm learning all of this as I go so any advice, guidance or diagrams/pics are super apreaciated

 

[ward93]

Should I replace the one on the front while I'm at it?

 

[4Cruisers]

Where can u get that part? Is it oem? I'm learning all of this as I go so any advice, guidance or diagrams/pics are super apreaciated

Here's a diagram:

Grommet:
90480-18001

Valve:
12204-35040

Hose (@ valve cover):
90445-16038

Hose (@ air plenum):
12261-61060

 

[ward93]

Ok that's awesome thank you so much. Is there a procedure for removing it in the FSM?

 

[ward93]

So replaced the hose and clamps and it seams to be fixed but I'm getting a new valve just in case. Still stalls at start but when I get it started it drives fine