FJ-45 2F-E Build

[Logan]

After having a lot of issues with the current 2f and charging system, I've taken to the quest for more power and reliability. Not trying to break any land speed records, just after enough to hold 100km/hr on the hills. So the grand plan is to put a 3fe head on a 2f block and MAYBE add a turbo down the track.

Build plans involve the following:

- Haltech 550 ecu (Saves doing the wiring twice if I go down the path of a turbo)
- Looking at flat valves to rep[lace the 3fe's concave ones (bump up compression)
- Port match and mild polish of intake, exhaust and combustion chamber
- Balance the engine and bore it out for a little more displacement (undecided on how far)
- Internal engine coatings (ceramic and dry film lubricant)
- Water injection

This is going to be a very very slow build so I hope you're all feeling patient Photo's to come as soon as I work out how to upload them from my phone.

 

[Logan]

Sources:

This one is my 'go to' for quick and concise information:
Adapting 3FE Induction to a 2F in a 1969 FJ40

Matt McInnes' build:
2F + 3F-E = 2F-ETI Into My FJ40

RocDoc's build:
Help me plan for a 2FE

Ideas for the head (also RocDoc):
improving flow for the 3FE’s top end

 

[Logan]

Finally worked out how to upload photos, not the best quality, but you get the idea. This is the 3FE before it was pulled down and stripped of all the important bits. I had contemplated chucking it in as is, but decided against when it started leaking like a siv all in the back of the ute

While pulling off the intake manifold and feeling along the insides of the mating surfaces, there was evidence of a previous owner doing some port match work. Makes my life easier, all I've gotta do is refine it now, rather than start over from new.

Intake and exhaust manifolds and rocker cover removed.

Heads off, anyone know of a stud kit for re-installation? Does ARP make one that'll work?

 

[Logan]

All valves looked okay, except for the exhaust in cylinder #3, isn't too big of a worry was looking at replacing the valves for flat ones to bump up the compression anyway. Now to go thread trawling to find a valve that fits without too much modification.

Started stripping the intake plenum, it was all pretty clean and free of carbon except for where the EGR went in; this will be getting left off on the new engine.

Gave some oven cleaner diluted in water a crack at cleaning out the carbon, it did okay, but it could be better. Got a sand blaster to finish off the job though, just got a few other projects to finish before I start on that.

 

[RockDoc]

On the valves, you can use 1.50" and 1.84" chevy valves, they are slightly larger in stem and seat area diameter, so you can get a fresh cut of the existing guide and seat without having to change them out. I used "Claimer" series stainless from SI Valves.... doesn't look like those particular ones are still listed online, but I'm sure you'll find something suitable. There is a Ford valve stem seal that matches the OD of the Toyota guide and the diameter of the chevy stem. Make sure you get the correct length stems, IIRC the 3FE uses an exhaust valve that is slightly longer than the intake valve, whereas the 2F used equal length intake and exhaust valves. The rockers differ from 2F to 3FE to accomodate this change.

On head studs, I think Matt's thread is going to be your best bet for info on Mud, I just used stock head bolts.

 

[RockDoc]

SI Claimer Series Stainless Steel Valves

These are the valves I used (I think Jim C pointed them out when I was looking), not available anymore...

SEV 2809+100 and SEV 3091