Fixing Warn 8000i that clicks and doesn't run.

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I just finished fixing my winch that made a clicking noise in both directions but didn't operate. I thought I'd write up what I went through in the hopes that it may help someone else do it faster. I found some help here, on the Warn site, and on a J**P site.

If you can hear a click but your motor doesn't operate (in one direction or both), it is likely one of three things. Cables or connections, the motor itself, or one or more solenoids.

Start with the cheapest and simplest- checking the cables visually and cleaning up the ends. I also tried jumping from the ground lug under the motor back to the battery ground with jumper cables.

To test the motor, use the following procedure from WARN:
Warn Motor Testing Procedure
If you find yourself in a situation where your winch is clicking but it is not working, you may have a motor problem....or you may have a solenoid problem. The following procedure, from Warn, will help you determine the status of your winch motor.​
1. Put the winch in freespool.

2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).

3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.

4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.
[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]

[/FONT]If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good.


(*Note: if you have a set of modern jumper cables that have side mount type clamp ends, you can use it to jump from F1 and F2 to A. Otherwise you're going to have to make or buy an 8 ga. short jumper. Note also that when you make the final connection you will get a BIG spark. I expected it and still was surprised.)



If the cables and the motor are good, chances are that one or more solenoids are gone. You can spend the time to test them one by one to see which one or two are bad, but you don't want to have to do this more than once. Buy 4 of them and replace them all. I got 4 72631 Warn brand solenoids for $75. shipped.


To remove the solenoid cover, remove the top two allen head screws and loosen the bottom two a few turns each. The cover should pop off. Take a picture and draw a diagram of the wiring that you see. See below.


Disconnect the Plus wire at the battery. Start by removing the control wires (smaller gauge)-once they are out of the way it's easier to remove the big wires and copper jumpers. The solenoids should come out easily with a twist and a lift, starting with an end one.

Replace them all and replace the wires and jumpers per your diagram.
IMG_0085.jpg
 
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thanks for the info! i have an old M8000 i got from a buddy for cheap that will power in but wont power out. now i have a starting point to try and fix it. one of these days i need to take a look but as long as it powers in i figured what the hell and mounted it anyway.
 
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In my post I said:
"If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good."
The corollary is:
If you've done it correctly and the motor doesn't run in either direction, the motor is bad.

If you're sure you followed the directions to effectively hot wire the motor and it doesn't turn, you'll need a new motor. They should be widely available at $100 or less.
 
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I don't know what the warranty was back in the day but the best warranty on Truck and Auto winches (including the M8000) from Warn today is LIFETIME on mechanical parts and 1 year on electrical.
 
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By "power out" I assume that you mean that the motor is turning in the direction that would cause the cable to unwind from the spool. Is that correct?

If that's correct, that is highly unusual and I'm thinking that there's only one of three possibilities:
1.) You didn't exactly follow the directions to a T. I know, "Impossible", but I've misread the same directions multiple times myself.
2.) There's something REALLY unusual wrong with the motor but I can't imagine what could cause your results. Seems electrically impossible.
3.) There's a ground fault somewhere that is causing current flow that otherwise would not happen.

I would start by eliminating number 3. Run a jumper cable from the ground lug to the negative of the battery and try again.
If that doesn't fix it, I would re-read the instructions and triple check that you are following them correctly. It makes NO sense for the motor to run the same direction with power to both F1 and F2 when the other terminal is shorted to A. It also makes no sense that it runs OUT both ways without the solenoids connected when it will only run IN when they are connected. Maybe if you didn't disconnect the solenoids and one is shorted out?
 
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I am going to recheck it again today and do a little more trouble shooting. This thread has been a big help in pointing me in the right direction. Thank you
 

roadstr6

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For some reason these M8000 winch motors have a tendency to take on water and corrode themselves to death inside. Mine was working intermittently in and out. I pulled off the motor and a big handful of rust fell out of it. Cleaning up the inside did not help. I'm in need of a motor now. Everything else seems to be okay.

I have read where many other folks had similar issues with water intrusion with the M8000 despite their trucks never having been dunked in water. I guess the rain just gets in there and kills them.

The M8274 on my FJ40 is an early 80's vintage. It has sat outside all it's life as far as I can tell. When I rebuilt it a couple of years ago, the motor looked great inside. No rust to speak of. Who'd a thunk it?
 
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