Fixing rust bubble on top of windshield $1500! (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 12, 2018
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7
Location
Denver, Colorado
2000 Series 100 LC. Denver, Colorado. 180k

I need some advice. I have a small rust bubble, about the size of a dime at the moment, at the top center of the windshield where it meets the windshield gasket. The last time the windshield was replaced the Safelite guy sanded and painted a small amount of surface rust in the gutter. My body shop wants $1500 to drill out the rust bubble, and repaint the entire top of the truck. They want to remove the windshield, headliner, and sunroof. Something about the clear coat peeling if you don't do the whole thing at one time. Can't overlap old and new clear coat, which sounds like BS to me.

He also suggested fixing the rust and painting the fixed area but then put a foot of Line-x on the roof above the windshield and call it good.

Once it is fixed and painted does using Line-X instead of clear coat sound like a good idea to anyone? Will rust form under it?

Any other ideas would be appreciated.
 
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Joined
Jun 23, 2016
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2,555
Location
Wyoming MI
You can clearcoat over old. No need to remove the headliner. Windshield yes. Mask off, fix rust. Paint. Light sand around roof and clearcoat.
It'll be fine.

The Line X of the rust won't solve anything, it's a temp fix.
 
Joined
May 15, 2016
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Location
Colorado Springs
Went through the same issue. I was actually able to have satellite cover the cost of it because they're the ones who have always installed my windshields. I think you should find a new body shop though. That's bogus that they told you.
 

Kabanstva

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Jan 31, 2016
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Illinois
If they spot paint the front of the roof, you'll eventually see a blend spot where the new clear meets the old. It may not be visible right away but with a bit of aging it will show up. It won't look horrible though and it's up there on the roof where it won't even be an eye sore. It should definitely not peel or flake off if it's done right.

Many bodyshops do this in various sections of a car, the most common one I'd say is blending at the top of the C pillar when quarter panels get repainted and customer/shop do not paint the entire roof or entire pillar (depending on vehicle design) due to costs. Yes, if you have an eye for attention you will see it when you look close, but most people won't notice.

Just take it somewhere else and forget about that shop that quoted you the $1,500.

While I do agree that doing it the way they suggested is the best way to do it, being that this is a truck and nobody really sees the roof anyways, you need to ask yourself if the extra costs is really worth it to you.

As far as the Line-X goes... I am a bit confused by that. They want to remove the rust, primer, paint and clear the area, and ON TOP of all that still put a layer of Line X? For what? If the rust is truly removed all the way, and the correct metal primer is used and section is painted thereafter, than no further layers of paint or top coat such as Line X should be necessary. Not sure why that was suggested. It would be an eye sore in my opinion. That stuff is like cement. Curious if he wanted to Line-X it before installing the windshield or after? If before, than it would be a definite no as the extra thickness of the Line X would probably prevent from the windshield from ever seating and sealing properly leading to windnoise, possible whistling, etc.

The only thing I'd recommend after getting the section painted is maybe having a PPF (clearbra) shop install a strip of film on the leading roof edge and wrapping the front edge to prevent rock chips from damaging the area. I put a strip of Suntek self healing film (probably like a 10" width) on mine as a precautionary measure and have done that to many cars in the past as our customers often request that. Just make sure to pre-cut it and not cut on the actual paint because if you're not experienced you will cut the paint and create more harm than good.
 

Kabanstva

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Jan 31, 2016
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Also, about removing the headliner, the only reason I see for doing that is if the roof rusted through and they need to weld in new patches of metal and remove the rust on the inside of the roof. If it is not rusted through than headliner can stay in place. You won't know how deep the rust is until you remove the windshield and start working on it. Ideally you'd need to mechanically (wire wheel, media blasting) and chemically (Evaporust, etc.) remove the rust to prevent it from coming back.
 
Joined
Jan 10, 2016
Messages
3
Location
AZ
Went thru this about two years ago and paid $1100. The rust bubble on mine was about 3 inches though. They did pull the head liner down but only to inspect the back of the gutter for penetration. No sun roof removal and repaint was done up to the front of the sun roof. Still looks good.
Line x ???
I did get quotes from 1K to 3K though with the higher price shops saying they couldn't give a true quote until window was removed and they could inspect the whole are and was based on welding in a whole new gutter section.
Get another estimate.
 

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