Fix your high beams! Corolla switch retrofit

[bloc]

I've owned two 80-series cruisers and both had bad high-beam/dimmer switches. The flash-to-pass never seemed to give problems, but the contacts inside the switch for the high-beams seemed problematic.

Yes, Slee makes an affordable harness to add relays (factory setup has a mechanical switch), but I prefer to avoid adding extra wiring and complexity when not absolutely necessary. The frequency of this problem suggests the factory switch isn't quite up to the task, but this mod is easy enough that if I have to do it every 15 years I can deal with it.

What this works on:
I've done it on a 94 LC and a 97 LX. As far as I know the switch is the same in all model years of LHD 80-series.

Parts you need:
1 medium zip-tie
the high-beam/blinker switch out of a 93-96 E100 toyota corolla. I didn't pay a ton of attention but don't think you can use the whole multi-function switch. I got one from a local pick-a-part yard. Do not cut the wires.. the connector can be easily depinned

Tools you need:
very small flat-head jeweler's screwdriver or suitable connector de-pinning tool
Phillips screwdriver
19mm socket & ratchet
Steering wheel puller if yours is stubborn
T30 torx driver (if your rig has an airbag)
Plastic trim tool or rounded flathead screwdriver (if your rig has an airbag)

The switch:

Gray part, installed on the "back" (vehicle front) of the multi-function switch:

 

[bloc]

The way the switch operates is through the metal post with white grease on it sticking out from the side with the contacts.

The turn-signal stalk is hinged top-to-bottom in front of the multi-function-switch. When the high-beam switch is installed, the post is held in between the two contact positions.. one is the momentary flash-to-pass. There is spring pressure, but no detent to hold the stalk in position. The other direction is high-beam.. a detent on the stalk holds it into position, and the post on the switch extends which allows the contacts to complete the circuit. No real idea why they seem to burn out.. perhaps they don't close quickly enough to prevent arcing and soot.. either way they do not function well forever.

The corolla switch is a direct fit, the only difference is the wires being about 3/4" too long. This is not a problem.

To get at the relevant parts, first remove your steering wheel. I've never needed a puller on the 6 toyota products I've owned.. usually grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 and somewhat-aggresively rocking back and forth wiggles it loose. But use a puller if this makes you uncomfortable.

This is easy to figure out and documented elsewhere. If people can't find it.. I'll try and get pics of mine. It wasn't difficult.

One note is you can avoid annoying the neighbors by pulling the "horn" relay in the underhood fuse block while working on the steering wheel.

Once the wheel is off, remove the 5 phillips head screws below the steering column clamshell.

With this off you'll be staring at the multi-function switch. wires go below it down the bottom of the column, into a large black connector with two chassis-side connectors plugged into it. Vehicles with airbags with have other connectors as well. Unhook everything here. Slide the cable guides off their posts.

The connector:

Four phillips screws inside 2-3" deep wells on the face of the Multi-function-switch will allow it to be removed from the column easily.

Grab the bundle of wires from the gray high-beam switch and follow that conduit down to the connector. Clip the zip-tie holding it against the switch. Remove the small cable retainer in the pic above.

Start depinning the connector, making sure to keep track of which wire goes where. Due to the way the conduit is wrapped you can't replace the wires one-at-a-time with the new switch without cutting the sheathing. So I just opened the note app in my phone and kept track of everything there. If you look closely on the bar that hinges up behind the terminals there are small numbers at 1,6,7, and 14 to help identify the terminal positions.

Once the wires are free push them together and slide out of the sheathing.

Now you are free to replace the switch itself. Very simple. Back to a pic of the switch:

Free the small gray harness that controls the turn signal from the stalk from its tabs on the back of the high-beam switch then simply remove the 4 phillips screws. (only 2 shown). It'll come off easily, and just replace with your corolla switch. Make sure not to strip these holes.. one trick I've learned with screws into plastic is to put them in place then turn backwards. You'll feel a "bump" or notch where the threads originally cut a groove in the plastic.. by starting to turn clockwise just after this bump you run the screw into its old grooves and keep the hole in good shape.

Push the wires back through the large sheathing, zip-tie the harnesses to the white retainer on the back of the MFswitch, pop the wire terminals back into their spots, close the retaining bars, plug in the harnesses, and check to see if your high-beams work. They should at this point.. even with the key off.

If everything is good to go, reinstall the multi-function-switch and "assembly is reverse of removal". Any screws going through or into plastic should be tightened carefully.. 20+ years of age = brittle plastic.

IF YOU HAVE A RIG WITH AIRBAGS MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE FRONT OF THE CLOCKSPRING/RIBBON CABLE ASSEMBLY BEFORE STEERING WHEEL INSTALL!!! If not, you'll tear the ribbon and have to replace another part later.

Don't go bananas with the steering wheel nut torque. 25 ft-lb.

Hopefully this helps some people out.

 

[bloc]

Reserved for details on the old switch when I get time to take pics/post.

 

[kino1161]

I just want to say THANK YOU!!!!!!! I have been without high beams for about 3 or 4 years! I followed your instructions today and VOILA! I have high beams again. I purchased the Corolla switch off ebay for $25. Thanks, again!!!!!!

 

[ticoman]

My headlights bounce between high and low all by themselves. It does not happen all the time but fairly frequently. Very annoying for oncoming traffic. Cold this be caused by the same bad switch?

 

[bloc]

Probably not the high-beam switch itself, but on the front of the multifunction switch where it interfaces with the high-beam switch. Possibly even loose screws holding the high-beam switch to the back of the MFswitch.

Does the headlight stalk move at all when this happens?

 

[kino1161]

Quick question. My spiral assembly does not tighten. It keeps spinning and my air bag light stays on. What could that be?

 

[bloc]

I didn't write anything about it because the directions are printed on the front of the assembly, but it is possible you broke the ribbon.

Basically it only has 6 turns from one end to the other. Assuming you did the work with the steering wheel at dead center (and front wheels centered), either don't turn the spiral assy OR turn it all the way to the right or left, come back 3 turns until the red arrows line up, then stab the steering wheel.

If you were one turn off and turned the wheel all the way the ribbon inside the assy can break.

Does your horn work? Cruise control? AFAIK if anything breaks inside the ribbon EVERYTHING should break.. it is all one ribbon.. I think.

 

[kino1161]

None of the things you mentioned work. Can I repair it?

 

[bloc]

Honestly with how important the part is to the function of the airbag system, I'm not sure I'd want to go messing with it even if it were repairable.

I'll look at see if something may have been shifted.. but if you say it won't wind up to an obvious stop, I think the thing is hosed.

 

[kino1161]

Yeah I may have to look for a used one on ebay or something. I have heard of them being repaired though.

 

[bloc]

Just got a look at mine. It is riveted together.. considering that and the importance of the ribbon I wouldn't mess with it.

The good news is it should be easy to change.. Once the wheel is removed it is only the column clamshell, 4 screws, and a couple harness plugs to swap. No de-pinning or removal of the multi-function switch necessary.

I'll add a note up there to be careful about following the directions on the assembly.

 

[kino1161]

Great. Thanks! It was still worth it and it was my fault... not yours! My high beams are fixed!

 

[kino1161]

Ok. Got a new spiral assembly. The horn and cruise works now but the airbag light is still on. ???? Can I reset it?

 

[1973Guppie]

weird, have never had problems with my high beam switch. In a high mileage truck most likely the switch just needs to be replaced with a replacement unit. Is there any benefit to replacing the stock unit with a corolla one? Is the stock part still available?

 

[nukegoat]

My switch is broken as you described. I appreciate the write up on how to fix it!

 

[bloc]

weird, have never had problems with my high beam switch. In a high mileage truck most likely the switch just needs to be replaced with a replacement unit. Is there any benefit to replacing the stock unit with a corolla one? Is the stock part still available?

No advantage over stock, in fact as far as I can tell the functional parts are the exact same, except that corolla switches are widely available in good shape in junk yards. A new OEM unit lists for about $90. Mine was $4.

84140-12260 if you want to go new OEM.

 

[bloc]

Ok. Got a new spiral assembly. The horn and cruise works now but the airbag light is still on. ???? Can I reset it?

You should be able to using the DLC diagnostic port near where the engine harness enters the firewall... consult the FSM.

 

[kino1161]

I don't have a FSM. Can you or anyone explain how to reset it? I have to get my truck inspected. Thanks!

 

[kino1161]

I found it but what am i supposed to do?