First start questions.

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by btbuild, Apr 6, 2017.

  1. btbuild

    btbuild

    Messages:
    263
    Media:
    12
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    904
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2016
    Location:
    Calif
    Hello
    I have a 1/73 fj40 F engine that has been desmogged and rebuilt also has a New Troll hole carb. I am planning on starting up rebuilt engine this weekend. The engine is mounted on chassis without any of the wiring harness.

    1. Do I have to hook up idle solinoid for start ? If so how do I do that without wiring harness?
    2. What is the oil pressure range I should be looking for with breaking oil SAE 30?
    3. Should I put a bit of oil in each cylinder befor start up!
    4. What rpm should I run for break in and how long?

    If anyone has any more input on this please advise
     
  2. shawnfj40

    shawnfj40

    Messages:
    2,029
    Media:
    6
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    605
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2013
    Location:
    Naples Florida
    1) Yes
    2) 30-60 is nice
    3) No
    4) I would break it in under 50 for the first 500 miles. Or give a good 10 hours of run time before changing the oil again. I am not a believer in running a motor aat a set rpm for long periods. I mix it up and just try not to "over rev" the motor while it is breaking in.
     
    btbuild likes this.
  3. stock

    stock SILVER Star

    Messages:
    529
    Media:
    13
    Albums:
    2
    Likes Received:
    287
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2006
    Location:
    Philadelphia, PA, USA
    I add zinc to my oil on first start up.
     
    btbuild and tls3601 like this.
  4. btbuild

    btbuild

    Messages:
    263
    Media:
    12
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    904
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2016
    Location:
    Calif
    Shawn do you know how to rig up the idle solinoid without the wiring harness?
     
  5. whitey45

    whitey45 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,232
    Likes Received:
    1,792
    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2007
    Location:
    San Gregorio
    It just needs 12 volts!
     
    shawnfj40 and stock like this.
  6. btbuild

    btbuild

    Messages:
    263
    Media:
    12
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    904
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2016
    Location:
    Calif
    Thanks! I will post vid of it running later.
     
  7. cjgoode

    cjgoode

    Messages:
    3,411
    Likes Received:
    205
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2009
    Location:
    New Smyrna Beach FL
    You definitely do not want to run a new motor at any sort of consistent RPM's. I have heard of people messing them up by getting out on the highway and going at a consistent speed and RPM's for a long period.
     
    shawnfj40 and btbuild like this.
  8. tlc762

    tlc762

    Messages:
    434
    Media:
    1
    Likes Received:
    248
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2006
    Location:
    Alamo City, Texas
    There have been threads on here that I remember reading a while back which discussed the proper method to use to break in the camshaft/lifters properly. If I remember they recommended to immediately run up the rpms to a certain level (above idle to "break in/mate the cam lobes and solid lifters). May be @65swb45 (Mark) and/or @FJ40Jim (Jim) will chime in with their sage advise on engine break in procedure.

    HTH,
    Will
     
    btbuild likes this.
  9. Tin basher

    Tin basher

    Messages:
    402
    Likes Received:
    138
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Location:
    Maple ridge bc
    btbuild likes this.
  10. whitey45

    whitey45 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,232
    Likes Received:
    1,792
    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2007
    Location:
    San Gregorio
    The idea behind the high rpm is that the oil will 'splash' more and help the cam and lifters break in and seat. Pretty sure there is no break in procedure for an f tractor engine! Low lift cam, no compression, all kidding aside you can never be too careful breaking in a fresh rebuild!
     
    btbuild likes this.
  11. btbuild

    btbuild

    Messages:
    263
    Media:
    12
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    904
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2016
    Location:
    Calif
    Thank you for the link very informative. I am using Brad Pen start up oil. I have everything hooked up and ready to start I'm just having a hard time finding a fitting for my oil pressure gauge. I don't want to start with out it. I should have engine up and running tomorrow. I then will have peace of mind to continue with the rest of restoration. Thanks to all!!

    Barrett
     
  12. 4Cruisers

    4Cruisers SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,314
    Likes Received:
    3,197
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2015
    I was able to find what I needed on Amazon and eBay. The threads on the block should be 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper), and you can find adapters that are 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT-27 female. The Sunpro mechanical gauge I bought at AutoZone had a 1/8 NPT-27 male fitting.
     
    btbuild likes this.
  13. Tin basher

    Tin basher

    Messages:
    402
    Likes Received:
    138
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Location:
    Maple ridge bc
    m
    Actually the break in procedure is the same for a flat head Ford 4banger it's to make sure the oil pressure stays high and splash for the piston skirts the oil press is even more critical to a ohv engine
     
  14. whitey45

    whitey45 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,232
    Likes Received:
    1,792
    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2007
    Location:
    San Gregorio
    ?? Cam and lifter is the most critical part of break in, not sure why you brought up a flathead? You think Henry broke in a million model a's?
     
  15. Tin basher

    Tin basher

    Messages:
    402
    Likes Received:
    138
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Location:
    Maple ridge bc
    Less comp and cam profile than a f tractor motor lol
     
  16. Cleg

    Cleg

    Messages:
    392
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2011
    Location:
    East TN
    I'll be going through the same procedure with a 2F with a new set of rings.
    I had read somewhere on Mud to run the oil pump with an electric drill until oil is getting to the head.
    It was described as turning the drive with the drill & a large screwdriver type shaft through the distributor hole.
     
    Tin basher and btbuild like this.
  17. Rock40

    Rock40

    Messages:
    1,430
    Media:
    7
    Albums:
    3
    Likes Received:
    1,079
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2012
    Location:
    Snohomish, WA
    Yes, and you can either chock an old (and very large) screwdriver up in an electric drill or I "think" that you can use a GM small block primer. I have one made by Moroso, very nice.
     
  18. whitey45

    whitey45 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,232
    Likes Received:
    1,792
    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2007
    Location:
    San Gregorio
    I removed the gear from an old dist, works great to prime the oil pump.
     
    btbuild likes this.
  19. Tin basher

    Tin basher

    Messages:
    402
    Likes Received:
    138
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Location:
    Maple ridge bc
    Yes absolutely prime the motor
    I do it with the valve cover off and rotate motor 1/4 turn at a time and. Make sure I have oil to all rockers
    (on a Chevy v8 you have to use a dist w gear removed or priming tool or it will not build press )
    Not relevant to this case
    Anything that will spin the oil pump drive will work
     
  20. btbuild

    btbuild

    Messages:
    263
    Media:
    12
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    904
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2016
    Location:
    Calif
    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg Thanks for everyone's help on guiding me in the right direction with my first start up on my rebuild. I kind of Jerry rigged my harness so I could use the ignition switch. It worked out perfect. Just had to make sure I didn't short anything out. primed oil pump and then set dizzy in place with flywheel bb lined up on pointer making sure dizzy was completely down . I then primed carb with a little gas and she fired right up!! I was stoked. Oil pressure came up to 40 psi at idle. I adjusted idle up to about 2000rpm after about 10 min of warm up and no problems. Engine sounded great! Ran a 2000 rpm for another 10min and then started to mess with my mini truck power steering. POW went the low pressure hose and power steering fluid every where!!! My dumb ass installed the hose without cutting off the cap on the low pressure pump port. Stupid stupid stupid!!!!!!!! After two hours of cleaning all is good after a few choice words.
     
Tags:
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.