First Post - I need help

[takeme2alaska]

Hello to all. I recently purchased a 2000 lc100 with 257k miles. I got a good deal and it was sitting for a long time so I started on some basic maintenance. I replaced the radiator because it was leaking and did the rear rotors and pads because there was evidence of warped rotors. As i got to the front rotors, I had no idea what to do. I’m having difficulty with the infamous cone washers. I have used PB Blaster, a brass punch, the two hammer method, threading the nut on and just hitting it like an animal. i bought a mini sledge - I have had no luck at all. i started going in with a chisel to try to wedge them out/break the side and I am not very hopeful about my prospects. I am searching for help and also wondering if I have screwed myself over with the chiseling I have attempted. If anyone has any tips or is near Hollywood Florida and would be willing to help out, I would be very grateful.

 

[Zuberg]

Those buggers can really get stuck in there. I'd use some more pb blaster, heat (try directing it at the flange around the washers) and then really get on it with the hammer. If you can, put the snap ring back on to keep the hub from sliding back and forth. It will help.

Chiseling probably didn't help. But maybe a bigger hammer can fix that. Be prepared to buy new studs if you haven't already.

If you have a good set of pliers you can sometimes get some leverage on the exposed shoulder of those cone washers and get them to twist just a bit. I had to do that when I did a hub that had been coated in liquid gasket. No fun at all.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Regardless of what you do, put the nuts back on and leave them loose next to the cone washer, that will protect the threads. If you have air, a cheap HF air hammer with a blunt end can get them off. If not, then heat, PB Blaster, and hitting the side of the flange and end of the bolt alternating with a brass drift works for me. Again, with the nuts on.

 

[TahoeZ]

As mentioned above, put the C-clip back on and the nuts back on the studs. I have been successful every time with a big brass drift placed directly on the end of the stud, then hitting the drift with a 2 LB sledge. Work your way around and around again and again and they will eventually loosen.

Heat and PB can definitely help.

 

[2001LC]

You may want to remove studs. Looks like, some studs damaged already, anyway. Those, just grab with vise grips. The ones you'd like to save and reuse. Double nut them, and turn off from lower/inner nut.

I've seen many, a real bear to pop out. The very worst, were glued in with FIPG.
I used hear, P-oil and beat to death, with brass dowel. Then grab with channel locks.

Brass dowel with 5lb sledge hammer

 

[2001LC]

I've since tool-up, to reduce fatigue and time. Brass head air chisel. So sweet!

 

[2001LC]

 

[Malleus]

The cone washers are springs. No amount of heavy hitting is going to release them as well as light, repetitive striking, with a soft hammer or rod. An 18–oz ball pein and a brass drift works far better than a sledge hammer, of any weight. This is what happens when you strike them with an air chisel. It's not the force ,per se, that causes them to release, it's the vibrations.

If the washers haven't released, no amount of torque is going to get the studs out of the hub, they are wedged in there. You'll break them first. Anyone who's gotten them out when the cone washers were really seated, was very lucky. And they stretched the threads in the hubs in the process.

I agree with @2001LC , your studs are garbage. Replace them, and the washers.