First post! fj60 dimmly lit e-brake and bad voltage..Help! BRAKE warning ⚠️ light stuck on (1 Viewer)

[keyman]

About a month ago, I left my lights on all night and killed my battery. I replaced the battery and all was fine for about a 3 weeks untill just last week when out of nowhere, upon start up, my charge light was flickering and a strange ticking sound was hear above the passenger side foot well. Over the next week, the problem was different at different times. Sometimes it was just a dimly lit ebrake light on while I was driving, my volt gauge was just below 12v all the time. Other times, when RPM dropped below 1x, the flickering charge light and ebrake lights would go on and the ticking would start. When I pull up to park and engage the e-brake the noise starts, then if I release ebrake, it goes away.

The volt gauge will go to 14v every once in a while, for nbo rhyme or reason, and will last untill my next start up , where it goes back to being stuck at 12v

The fusible link (Thats the green connector thingy right?) Looks old and there is a few spots where bare wire is showing. (One leading into postivie terminal on battery, looks frayed at the connection point. Took to autozone and they wheeld out there machine, he said my alternator wasn't working, but my battery was fully charged. How could this be?

Everyone wants to sell me a rebuilt alternator, voltage regulator, or both. O want to make sure it is not a simple wire.

What could the correlation be with my e-brake?

I never knew anything about cars when my aunt gave me this thing. Now I am learning more than I ever wanted to.


I only have 157k on my 1982 fj60, with only a few quarter size rust spots near rear wheel well. It's a great truck, but I also have to pass smog by Dec or I will not be able to register this truck in CA. It's the sellers responsibility to have it pass smog, so I might be interested in selling it to someone in a state where they don't need smog. (I applied for our states smog assistance program, they did some troubleshooting and it would need as carburator overhhaul to pass.)

I have replaced the following since I got it in Nov 05'

Clutch slave cylinder
Power steering pump
Clutch
Power Steering Pump (Again)
Smog Pump
Radiator Hose
Thermostat
Battery
Tires (Wrangler)

This site rocks! any help wpuld be much appreciated, or if anyone is interested in my wagon, let me know and I weill post pics and price.

 

[RockDoc]

I would look into the wiring first, and if you still have the issues, look into the alt/voltage regulator. If you have any bare wire, replace it (or use liquid electrical tape if the strands still look good?). Get out a multi-meter and check the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery, it's likely to be significant as the stock lead isn't that thick, and time doesn't help it. I replaced mine with a new fused lead (4 Ga IIRC), and noticed a real improvement. If that checks out, check the signal that is being sent back to the alt/regulator (not something I've done, so I am not sure how easy this is to do). Also check all your ground paths. Maybe your issue is as simple as a bad ground.

If the wiring all checks out, then it is time to get the alt/regulator replaced/rebuilt. When mine when, I got the stock Bosch rebuild (mostly for convenience, I was out of town and needed my truck back on the road ASAP). I'm sure others will chime in on rebuilding the alt, but I would either do it myself with a rebuild kit (if this is feasible) or take it in to an auto electric shop to have it done. If you take it in somewhere, they can usually rebuild it to give a greater output.

The clicking noise could be a circuit breaker? Sure someone used to the 60s electrics can suggest.

HTH, and welcome to Mud

 

[sl33py]

Just before my alternator died a painful frustrating death, i had similar symptoms. Mine would charge once i got under way (a whopping 12.5-13v), but i got the flicker occasionally as well. I would definitely look at the alternator.

I've also had issues w/ fusible link in the past and now carry a spare, just in case! I don't recall a similar issue with them though.

I got a spare ALt from mud member and worth the $ - makes a quick fix if needed, or to troubleshoot. new ND Alt is 100+ and doesn't come w/ volt reg (incl. core chg).

GL!

rob

 

[Scotty]

Bad Alternator. Most 80s Toyotas do the same thing. The dim brake light is your warning/caution light. The charge light tells you what is wrong.

 

[Lost]

i had the same symptoms (e-brake+battery light) when my alternator went(twice).
first time i got a toyota reman. it lasted a year.
then second time i got a local shop to rebuild a spare i had.

 

[MrMoMo]

Sounds like the diodes on the positive side of your alternator. Have 'em ALL replaced because the ones on the negative side will go next, and drain your battery over night. Then you'll have to remove the alternator again, and have it torn down and repaired again. Ask me how I know. (oh, and it will be on the coldest days of the year)

 

[keyman]

So how do I get diodes replaced? Is it something any mechanic can do? Are the diodes easy to find? Or do you mean I just need a new alternator?

 

[gnomesliv]

I am having a similar problem, except I went to Checkers and got a new alternator...installed it and tried to start the truck. Poof...nothing at all...not even a voltage reading. I hope this thread gets a little more attention....

In the mean time I will search..

 

[Cruiser62]

I had a similiar problem with both the e-brake light and the battery charge lights coming on and off. It turned out that the belts were loose. Since tightening them, there hasn't been a problem.

 

[gnomesliv]

Well it was bugging the Heck out of me so I just went outside and rechecked my connections...and it was just a loose battery cable.....

These trucks are so so easy to work on compared to these newer cars and trucks...praise the 60's series FJs Was comforting to know that an excellent site like this was here for reference along the way..

 

[TPAFJC]

I was having a similar problem, except my meter would read around 12v or below and then spike erratically to 16v (with e-brake and charge lights coming on sometimes). I replaced the voltage regulator and now the meter reads about 14v 1500-2000 rpms (when I idle it dips to around 12v or a bit below). Is this normal, or should I look into replacing the alternator too?

P.S. I checked my fusible link by removing it and connecting the two wires directly, if that helps with your troubleshooting at all.

 

[slcfj62]

I am having a similar problem, except I went to Checkers and got a new alternator...installed it and tried to start the truck. Poof...nothing at all...not even a voltage reading. I hope this thread gets a little more attention....

In the mean time I will search..

Getting an alternator from Checkers is your second problem. Your first problem was the alternator going out. Don't ever get any rebuilt alternators, starters, etc from Checkers or any other similar car parts store, with the exception of maybe Napa, and only then if you get their top line stuff. And since you already bought the Checkers one, hold onto the receipt. In my experience, your alternator will most likely fail.

 

[gnomesliv]

Getting an alternator from Checkers is your second problem. Your first problem was the alternator going out. Don't ever get any rebuilt alternators, starters, etc from Checkers or any other similar car parts store, with the exception of maybe Napa, and only then if you get their top line stuff. And since you already bought the Checkers one, hold onto the receipt. In my experience, your alternator will most likely fail.

How long did yours last from Checkers? And, without making a lot of modifications to my wiring..what is the best alternator for the money. I have an internally regulated VR..and the plug that goes into the back of my alternator has two male ends... As a matter of fact it is this exact one on my attachment. This is the same one they sell at JT outfitters..Alternator for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 81 to 87 - JTOutfitters

 

[smkymntn]

Bad Alternator. Most 80s Toyotas do the same thing. The dim brake light is your warning/caution light. The charge light tells you what is wrong.

i had the same symptoms (e-brake+battery light) when my alternator went(twice).
first time i got a toyota reman. it lasted a year.
then second time i got a local shop to rebuild a spare i had.

The fusable link was a big part of my problem. I have had 3 oem alternators, 3 Regualtors. They seem to go quite often. Bring spares of all if you want to stay oem. I finally bit the bullet and bought a mean green. I am forever on the hunt for 14.0 volts underway and with headlights on!! Good luck

 

[justin85-60]

On my last 60, I had that same problem, combined with running rough when the charge light was on. Turned out it was a short at the green fusible link. It caused me to go through four alernators in two months. (Thank God they had a lifetime waranty and I have a friend at the parts store, so no questions asked for free replacements) fixed the short, and have been going with the same alt for 4 yrs. Beck Arnley I believe. Couldn't afford a new Toyota alt, and neither of my 60's had stock alts to rebuild when I bought them. (It is in my current 60 since it needed one when I bought it Still holding strong... Sold the old 60 with bad alt. He was doing a diesel swap so he didn't need one anyway)

 

[Hojack]

@Cruiser Jimmy the OP hasn’t been on here since 2009
Can you retitle, BRAKE warning light stuck on so this thread is easier to find. Good info on here.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Added it to the title.