fan clutch mod intel? (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

anyone done this. i have one good thread (images below) but he explains draining fluid and then explains setting the thermostat as two separate pieces so he fills it with fluid and bolts it up and then explains setting the temp.
a couple equations?
1. so i unbolt it and drain both sides? then i set the thermo in a pan with boiling water by shifting the two screws left and right (or in and out or whatever) so there is no obstruction through the sight holes at 95 d F?
2. how much fluid goes in exactly? i've got this 15 CST from a hobby store. one thread seems to say 30ml and the other says rj the bottom of the over holes. any good reason to buy OEM toyota?
3. just to verify it does it make sense to add 15 CST to a new lc it cg i guess instead of pulling the old one and plopping this one in with no modification of i am in texas?
looks pretty straightforward i guess i just want to make sure i do it once.
THANKA

 

[Irish Reiver]

Drain overnight to ensure completely empty. Refill with 15K cst. Button it up and be happy. Adjusting the thermosat is only needed for extreme climates.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

forgot i have this here somewhere. and some pics from a currently non working link for the noobs.

Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk

History: On my first drive this summer after replacing my transmission I was having an overheat condition with the truck. On the following weekend while towing a camper it was real severe in the 230* range. After returning I was able to confirm that my Blue hubbed fan clutch was to blame...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Drain overnight to ensure completely empty. Refill with 15K cst. Button it up and be happy. Adjusting the thermosat is only needed for extreme climates.

yeah. so ignore the temp setting thing? but worth it to add 15CST then i guess...?

 

[Irish Reiver]

If your clutch is old or you just bought a new one then it is worth swapping the fluid to 15k CST

 

[FMC80]

Measure the amount of liquid you drain and refill the exact amount with your 15K.

And the thread devolution begins in 3, 2, 1…

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Why do you feel the need to mod a brand new blue fan clutch?
I replaced the PO's after market POS no-name with a new Blue Hub last July, then proceeded to drag a 2000# trailer allover the SE. NEVER once experienced heat issues.
Just put it in the truck and run it. If for some reason you feel its not cooling adequately , then mod it. My guess is it will be just fine.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here is some good info from kevin. very technical. looking forward to reading it.

Fan Clutch Service

Servicing the fan clutch seems to be nothing new for many. I picked up the idea after LandTank wrote up how to adjust the temperature for an 80series LC fan clutch (this is NOT possible on a Truck/22RE fan clutch). The fan clutch problem steems from shearing the fluid over time, even just a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Why do you feel the need to mod a brand new blue fan clutch?
I replaced the PO's after market POS no-name with a new Blue Hub last July, then proceeded to drag a 2000# trailer allover the SE. NEVER once experienced heat issues.
Just put it in the truck and run it. If for some reason you feel its not cooling adequately , then mod it. My guess is it will be just fine.

hey man. thanks as always. "blue" fan clutch simply means it is adjustable is that right?
kevin in the thread above (in the AZ) seems to say he was adding 30K to new clutches on top of what was in there with good results.
i'm in texas. we can have a stretch of 30 - 100+ degree days in august. i do get your point about just trying it. but it is sitting on a shelf and i have the fluid so it seemed like i could check the thermostat and add heavier fluid before putting it in?

 

[nukegoat]

Paging @richardlillard1 and @twalker9480.

These guys are the experts at Land Cruisers

 

[FMC80]

Buckle your seatbelts.

 

[nukegoat]

hey man. thanks as always. "blue" fan clutch simply means it is adjustable is that right?

The term Blue is from the type of viscous coupling mechanism, not the adjustable nature. Just like different wavelengths on the EM spectrum make different light, the different 'humping' frequency of a silicone viscous coupling creates different ranges of viscoelastic boundary transfer. According to ASTM 308.c3 (from the mid 90s, not relevant now) the blue is the one you want. Yours looks like it might not be blue

 

[richardlillard1]

Not on here as much lately, so I’ll try to be somewhat thorough.

1. The Aisin clutch pictured above is a blue hub. That’s why the hub is blue. Toyota changed the color of the hub for various models with Aisin clutches and somewhere along the line they made the 1fz clutch blue instead of black. Disregard all information about other clutches because this is now about the blue hub.

2. The clutch must be drained before adding more silicone or it will constantly roar and make noise.

3. It’s been our experience here in Phoenix that 15k won’t do dick in desert heat if it’s hot and dry outside. Might bring the temps down some, but in my experience, AC, engine coolant temp, etc are all improved when they pull serious air. Kevin (Tools R Us) used anywhere from 20k-30k in blue hubs, going more towards 30k later on and it’s now my usual go-to. You want to use around 45-50ml of the silicone, so don’t squirt the whole bottle in there, measure it out, use a syringe, etc.

4. Operating temps of the clutch are best set with air moving across the bimetal spring on the outside of the clutch, measured with a thermocouple. 95° is pretty low; Kevin didn’t care for setting them down that far and neither do I. On a hot summer day with AC blasting you can routinely see ~150° using an IR gun on the condenser at the front of the truck. This is why I aim for Kevin’s usual ~120° for the first opening of the clutch. On a blue hub, the first opening is not the diagonal shaped section, but a smaller circular opening inside shearing area. Warm the spring up to around 150-200° and watch the temps drop as the valve closes. When it is just starting to completely cover the aforementioned circular opening, note the temp and whether it needs adjustment. After doing a couple dozen blue hubs over the last couple years, I’m pretty sure it will.

5. Pay attention to where the top plate moves to make your adjustments. Residual silicone often sticks to the valve and moves it along with the top plate, so check your work and expect you might make the adjustment to the opening several times. Even if it doesn’t seem to move, check your work. With the clutch set to open at around 120°, it should be completely open around 200°.

 

[nigelsiam]

What kind of H20 temps are you looking for? How hot is too hot? A modded clutch fan does help but you might not need it if your temps are ok. So (this will hijack and start fights for sure! ) what temps are normal?

 

[Rusty Marlin]

At 104F my rig sees 194 to 196 hauling a trailer at low (sub 30 mph) speeds.
Before I changed to the blue hub clutch (unmodifed) I was getting 226+.
If I lived in Death Valley, I might put some different Silicon Oil in it, but here in SC where it only gets to 100F once in while, I'll just leave it stock. Its working fine.

Dude! Just put the frigging thing in your truck and run it... don't mess with what ain't broke.

If you choose to F with it, you'll need one of these:

FLK-T3000FC Fluke Electronics | Test and Measurement | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. FLK-T3000FC – Handheld -200 ~ 1372°C Thermocouple Thermometer LCD C° Backlight, Memory from Fluke Electronics. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

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Or just bite the bullet and get one of these, everybody needs a multimeter anyway.

Fluke Industrial Digital Multimeter, 1000V, 10A FLUKE 87V/IMSK | Zoro

Order Fluke Industrial Digital Multimeter, 1000V, 10A, FLUKE 87V/IMSK at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

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[OGBeno]

Not on here as much lately, so I’ll try to be somewhat thorough.

1. The Aisin clutch pictured above is a blue hub. That’s why the hub is blue. Toyota changed the color of the hub for various models with Aisin clutches and somewhere along the line they made the 1fz clutch blue instead of black. Disregard all information about other clutches because this is now about the blue hub.

2. The clutch must be drained before adding more silicone or it will constantly roar and make noise.

3. It’s been our experience here in Phoenix that 15k won’t do dick in desert heat if it’s hot and dry outside. Might bring the temps down some, but in my experience, AC, engine coolant temp, etc are all improved when they pull serious air. Kevin (Tools R Us) used anywhere from 20k-30k in blue hubs, going more towards 30k later on and it’s now my usual go-to. You want to use around 45-50ml of the silicone, so don’t squirt the whole bottle in there, measure it out, use a syringe, etc.

4. Operating temps of the clutch are best set with air moving across the bimetal spring on the outside of the clutch, measured with a thermocouple. 95° is pretty low; Kevin didn’t care for setting them down that far and neither do I. On a hot summer day with AC blasting you can routinely see ~150° using an IR gun on the condenser at the front of the truck. This is why I aim for Kevin’s usual ~120° for the first opening of the clutch. On a blue hub, the first opening is not the diagonal shaped section, but a smaller circular opening inside shearing area. Warm the spring up to around 150-200° and watch the temps drop as the valve closes. When it is just starting to completely cover the aforementioned circular opening, note the temp and whether it needs adjustment. After doing a couple dozen blue hubs over the last couple years, I’m pretty sure it will.

5. Pay attention to where the top plate moves to make your adjustments. Residual silicone often sticks to the valve and moves it along with the top plate, so check your work and expect you might make the adjustment to the opening several times. Even if it doesn’t seem to move, check your work. With the clutch set to open at around 120°, it should be completely open around 200°.

Might actually be useful just to have a direct drive fan clutch that is spinning constantly vs. based on hydraulic and thermostatic input.

Like hot region 40 series trucks.

Good points, Richard.

 

[richardlillard1]

Might actually be useful just to have a direct drive fan clutch that is spinning constantly vs. based on hydraulic and thermostatic input.

Like hot region 40 series trucks.

Good points, Richard.

Got close to that by running a clutch with 60k in it for a long while. Roared like a garbage truck, but also sucked horsepower from the motor. Ran cool, though!

 

[OGBeno]

Got close to that by running a clutch with 60k in it for a long while. Roared like a garbage truck, but also sucked horsepower from the motor. Ran cool, though!

Trade offs.

 

[nukegoat]

Not on here as much lately, so I’ll try to be somewhat thorough.

1. The Aisin clutch pictured above is a blue hub. That’s why the hub is blue. Toyota changed the color of the hub for various models with Aisin clutches and somewhere along the line they made the 1fz clutch blue instead of black. Disregard all information about other clutches because this is now about the blue hub.

2. The clutch must be drained before adding more silicone or it will constantly roar and make noise.

3. It’s been our experience here in Phoenix that 15k won’t do dick in desert heat if it’s hot and dry outside. Might bring the temps down some, but in my experience, AC, engine coolant temp, etc are all improved when they pull serious air. Kevin (Tools R Us) used anywhere from 20k-30k in blue hubs, going more towards 30k later on and it’s now my usual go-to. You want to use around 45-50ml of the silicone, so don’t squirt the whole bottle in there, measure it out, use a syringe, etc.

4. Operating temps of the clutch are best set with air moving across the bimetal spring on the outside of the clutch, measured with a thermocouple. 95° is pretty low; Kevin didn’t care for setting them down that far and neither do I. On a hot summer day with AC blasting you can routinely see ~150° using an IR gun on the condenser at the front of the truck. This is why I aim for Kevin’s usual ~120° for the first opening of the clutch. On a blue hub, the first opening is not the diagonal shaped section, but a smaller circular opening inside shearing area. Warm the spring up to around 150-200° and watch the temps drop as the valve closes. When it is just starting to completely cover the aforementioned circular opening, note the temp and whether it needs adjustment. After doing a couple dozen blue hubs over the last couple years, I’m pretty sure it will.

5. Pay attention to where the top plate moves to make your adjustments. Residual silicone often sticks to the valve and moves it along with the top plate, so check your work and expect you might make the adjustment to the opening several times. Even if it doesn’t seem to move, check your work. With the clutch set to open at around 120°, it should be completely open around 200°.

Can we not spread misinformation here

 

[TYM4FUN]

Stock blue ~ A/C would cut out wheeling, 20k fixed this. 30k ~ run the A/C 24/7 in Death Valley even when parked and leaving the truck... set throttle to 1,200 rpms and come back to a frosty cold truck with coolant temps in the mid 180's. Hill descents got me 176-182°...