Build "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60

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That’s pretty slick!
They aren’t TOO huge. I think any narrower and you’ll have room to drop stuff beside the hand brake or it won’t be placed right for your elbow. Go 8” with either brand.

@77CruiserDog I need to get back to work on my CCOT/Tuffy internal divider system… those things need organization in a bad way.
 
They aren’t TOO huge. I think any narrower and you’ll have room to drop stuff beside the hand brake or it won’t be placed right for your elbow. Go 8” with either brand.

@77CruiserDog I need to get back to work on my CCOT/Tuffy internal divider system… those things need organization in a bad way.
Excellent. 8” it is. I been thinking about some sort of organization, too. Plus, thinking about mounting my kill switch in there. A little added security. Just need to wire it up nice and deep into the system.
 
Had a chance to drive Falcor with the new 4:10 gears in it and it has just a touch more pep, not a huge difference but it's noticable. Drove up to Stevens Pass and back, just wanted to see how it dealt with the long climbs. It's still slow but much better than before.
Have you seen RPM increase on flat highway with the H55 and 4.10's?
 
Have you seen RPM increase on flat highway with the H55 and 4.10's?
Yes but only by about 200 rpms or so. It's not a big difference. In fact, if the H55 had a taller 5th gear and a smidge taller 1st gear I'd be running 4.56 gears in the diffs.

The H55 with 3.70 gears was fine for a while but 5th gear was not always attainable and 4th gear was sometimes even too tall for some climbs up passes. This might work fine for people who don't drive anywhere near mountain passes.

The H55 with 4.10 gears is just fine in 4th gear up passes and 5th gear can be used regularly and never feel like it's climbing too high in the rpms. I think this works well for those who have a hilly environment or drive over passes regularly.

If I remember correctly 65 mph was right around 2100 rpms with 3.70s and now it's around 2300 with 4.10.

The timing worked out perfectly for me to have this done because my pinion bearing was slowly going out (rumble on decel) and the day before I took it in I gave the drive shaft a wiggle and it had gotten much worse on my last drive back from Bend. 3-4mm of movement in that bearing area.... it was wasted.
 
I adjusted my valves and used this method....


Super easy, I was done in about 30 minutes. The hardest part was finding the right way to get the engine turned over so the timing mark would show. I ended up using a 22mm socket on the alt pully. Two of my exhaust valves were super tight. Two of my intake valves were really loose. A couple were mildly loose or tight.

After the adjustment I can tell a difference in how smooth/quiet it runs. I also believe it has a touch more power, but it's possible I'm just imagining it.

I also installed the distributor cover. Pics or it didn't happen right?!

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Lastly, while Falcor was getting the new ring and pinions installed, I drove around in Scout for a bit. It was nice to use it so much over the past few weeks. One thing I noticed was how incredible the headlights in Scout are compared to the ones in Falcor.

Scout has the Hella housings while Falcor has the Koito housings. I've always wondered how the two housings would affect the light output with the same exact bulb installed. So I installed one of my Hella housings on the driver side and the passenger side has the Koito housing.

Against a wall, it's pretty interesting.

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I'll get a shot at night to see if the larger hotspot translates in to more light on the road.

I'll also say that I tried to use the halogen bulbs and found them too dim. I am currently using DDM Tuning Saber 55w H4 bulbs and really like them.
 
Yes but only by about 200 rpms or so. It's not a big difference. In fact, if the H55 had a taller 5th gear and a smidge taller 1st gear I'd be running 4.56 gears in the diffs.

The H55 with 3.70 gears was fine for a while but 5th gear was not always attainable and 4th gear was sometimes even too tall for some climbs up passes. This might work fine for people who don't drive anywhere near mountain passes.

The H55 with 4.10 gears is just fine in 4th gear up passes and 5th gear can be used regularly and never feel like it's climbing too high in the rpms. I think this works well for those who have a hilly environment or drive over passes regularly.

This is all with running a true 33" tire, right?

If I remember correctly 65 mph was right around 2100 rpms with 3.70s and now it's around 2300 with 4.10.

And this is with a 5 speed in both scenarios? You had a 5 speed and then installed the 4.10s later on?
65 mph (GPS) is around 2500 rpm for me with a true 33" tire, h42 and 3.70s. ~2800 RPM gets me to about 74 mph. I'm about to do a 5 speed but will probably leave the diffs alone and see how I like it since it's flat here. I know it will be a dog when it's loaded and headed to CO but that's once a year for me.
 
This is all with running a true 33" tire, right?



And this is with a 5 speed in both scenarios? You had a 5 speed and then installed the 4.10s later on?
65 mph (GPS) is around 2500 rpm for me with a true 33" tire, h42 and 3.70s. ~2800 RPM gets me to about 74 mph. I'm about to do a 5 speed but will probably leave the diffs alone and see how I like it since it's flat here. I know it will be a dog when it's loaded and headed to CO but that's once a year for me.

Yes, with a true 33" tire. It's a 255/85/16" Cooper ST Maxx which I found to be about 1/8" taller than my Toyo MT in a 33/10.5/15".

That's correct both scenerios were with the 5spd and the 4.10s came later. I did the 5spd and drove around for about 1500-2000 miles to see if I could live with the 3.70s. Around Seattle and Bend I didn't feel like it was in the sweet spot. However, if I lived in a flat area, I think I'd prefer the 3.70s purely for the ability to leg it out on the freeway at low rpms and get great mileage. "Great" seems like a funny word to use but you know what I mean. My best was about 14.5 mpg corrected.

Something you may already know, the 4th gear in both transmissions are 1:1

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5th gear is not a huge drop in rpms as you can see by the chart above. However, you'll really appreciate the lower 1st gear since you're keeping your diffs untouched.

The other nice thing about 5th gear that no one seems to have mentioned thus far in any of their builds, at least the one's I've read... is that you can warn people you're going to "Ludicrous Speed" just before you put it in 5th gear, tell them to hold on sort of like this....



I think you'll like the 5spd with 3.70s in a flat area. The 5spd is a great upgrade to the 60 series.
 
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Also, I took a couple of night shots with the Hella housing on the driver side and the Koito housing on the passenger side.

These illustrate what I felt was a dark spot on the sides with the Koito housings.

I'll take another set in the same location once I replace the passenger housing with the Hella this afternoon and post them up.

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Also, I took a couple of night shots with the Hella housing on the driver side and the Koito housing on the passenger side.

These illustrate what I felt was a dark spot on the sides with the Koito housings.

I'll take another set in the same location once I replace the passenger housing with the Hella this afternoon and post them up.

View attachment 3089172View attachment 3089173
What Hella housings are these? I'm ahout to redo the lighting situation on Matilda and was going to go the Koito route again. These photos are making me second guess that however. Same bulb in both??
 
What Hella housings are these? I'm ahout to redo the lighting situation on Matilda and was going to go the Koito route again. These photos are making me second guess that however. Same bulb in both??
Here are the ones I'm using. I've used them in a few vehicles and really like them.

Amazon product ASIN B001G72SKQ
Same bulbs in all of the tests.

Amazon product ASIN B08TBK4YV3
I'll get some pictures of both the Hella housings in that same spot and see if I can illustrate a difference. I've already installed the passenger one now so it's just a matter of verifying the aim. I will say that based on what the driver side light looked like compared to what I have been used to with the Koitos.... I'll likely have a fairly new set of Koito headlights with a new harness that I will be selling.
 
I prefer halogens still. Something about LEDs messes with my eyes. They seem brighter but at the same time my road vision is worse with them. Got some Osrams a while back that I really like that work for me though. Plus there’s snow here and I like that to melt.

Anyway, the Amazon page for the housings shows the housings and a “kit”. I assume the kit has a harness and bulbs with it, correct? I’ll be building my own harness so that I can run the relays and fuses in my relay/fuse block setup (a little tidier that way). Hopefully the cheaper non-kit option is what I need.
 
I prefer halogens still. Something about LEDs messes with my eyes. They seem brighter but at the same time my road vision is worse with them. Got some Osrams a while back that I really like that work for me though. Plus there’s snow here and I like that to melt.

Anyway, the Amazon page for the housings shows the housings and a “kit”. I assume the kit has a harness and bulbs with it, correct? I’ll be building my own harness so that I can run the relays and fuses in my relay/fuse block setup (a little tidier that way). Hopefully the cheaper non-kit option is what I need.

Housings and bulbs but no harness. 🤘
 
Housings and bulbs but no harness. 🤘
Well, it’s on the list after knuckles, rear springs, paint buffing, cargo sliding window install, etc, etc, etc haha.
 
Well, it’s on the list after knuckles, rear springs, paint buffing, cargo sliding window install, etc, etc, etc haha.

Don't get too excited about them until I see how both of them look. I just always felt the Koitos had a dark spot on the edges that I didn't care for. I tried it with 2-3 different halogens and 2-3 different LEDs.

You're right, the LEDs are no bueno in the colder climates. They ice up quickly.
 
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