- Location
- United States
Gauging interest – I don’t have an asking price because it’s not officially for sale. I am switching to XP Camper and most likely will not keep the Land Cruiser once I take delivery on the XP Camper. I also have a teardrop trailer with many custom features that is matched to this Land Cruiser. I would consider selling them together or separately. The teardrop trailer has a custom steel chassis with the track width matched to the Land Cruiser. It has 36 gallons worth of water tanks under the chassis, a sink with hot and cold running water, propane gas lines, an outdoor hot shower, and the “camper pod” is built of welded aluminum with 1” foam insulation in the walls. PM me with your phone number and I will be happy to call you back to answer questions about the Land Cruiser or the teardrop trailer. Given the right offer, I will probably agree to sell. This is one of the best built and cleanest 80 series Land Cruisers for expedition or overland use. It is not a rock crawler. Serious inquiries only please.
1997 Collectors’ Edition
White exterior. Oak interior.
165,000 miles
Second owner. I purchased it in Florida in 2007 and drove it to California. It had 132,000 miles when I bought it which means I have put on about 30,000 miles in the last 9 years that I have owned it. I purchased from the original owner who was obsessive about the maintenance. It has lived in Miami or LA its whole life. No rust. Regular fluid changes and maintenance.
OEM front, rear, and center differential lockers. All diff locks engage and disengage quickly and consistently.
The good:
Super clean interior including leather seats in great condition with no scuffs or tears. The interior looks like this vehicle is just a few years old. Waterproof seat covers and floor mats have been in place since the vehicle was new.
No oil leaks. Runs strong with no strange noises or quirks. Perfect alignment. No accidents.
The bad:
I recently purchased a new antenna unit but it does not retract all the way. I suspect that a piece of the old cable may still be in there and it is keeping the new cable from operating correctly. I have not attempted to repair the issue.
The rear diff lock status light on the dash keeps blinking even though the diff lock is engaged. It seems to be the sensor that notices if the diff has locked. I have not bothered to look into it since the diff lock itself works great.
Paint is dull. No chips or major damage but the original luster is gone. Plenty of desert pinstriping.
Modifications:
ARB front bumper with Warn M12000 winch and Hella 4000 driving lights.
Kaymar rear bumper with spare tire swingout and custom jerry can holder on the other swingout. This holds two jerry cans plus a propane tank and can be used to as a bike carrier as well. The bike carrier allows the bikes to stay mounted while the swingout is opened to access the rear hatch.
ARB running boards with integrated front fender protection rails that mount to the front bumper.
Old Man Emu 419 front springs and 864 rear springs with new nitro charger shocks and steering damper. This is a great spring setup and provides about 3.5-4” of lift, carries a very heavy load, and is extremely comfortable on the highway. I went through several different spring configurations before settling on this setup. 315/75/16 BFG all terrain tires. I have a total of 6 of these tires. They still have decent tread left on them and are all worn very evenly.
4.56 gearing. Speedometer is accurate with 315 tires.
Slee headlight harness with aftermarket bulbs. Driving lights mounted on front bumper activate by dash switch in combination with high beams.
Long Ranger auxiliary fuel tank in the stock spare tire location. This includes the OEM dual filler neck and the OEM overhead console with fuel gauge and altimeter. The Long Ranger tank is originally 45 gallons but it sacrificed rear departure angle by hanging down further than I liked. I had the tank modified by a welder who cut the bottom 4” off the tank and welded a new stainless steel bottom in thicker 1/8” plate. This reduced the auxiliary tank capacity from 45 gallons to about 35 gallons but improved the rear departure angle substantially to the point where the tank is no longer a factor. OEM subtank switch installed in the dash to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank.
ARB dual motor compressor installed in the rear quarter panel. This is activated via a dash switch. The tank is plumbed directly to a 2.5 gallon air tank that is mounted under the chassis. There is a quick disconnect at the left rear bumper for connecting an air hose. This compressor inflates the tires very quickly.
The roof rack is ¾ length so that the sunroof can still be used.
Dual batteries. Both are Sears Die Hard Platinum AGM. One is for starting only and the other powers the winch and accessories. There is a dash mounted switch from Painless for manually connecting the two batteries.
There is #2 gauge wiring leading from the auxiliary battery directly to a junction box in the rear quarter panel. This junction box powers the air compressor and also has a set of wires that go through the D pillar and then through a roof penetration to a roof mounted plug. The plug has power/ground wires plus 3 smaller gauge wires that trace back to dash switches. These can be used to power driving lights mounted on the roof rack using relays. I do not have any lights on the roof rack but they can be added and the wiring is already in place. The junction box can also be used to tap power for a fridge.
Seat bracket modification supplied by a Mud member for moving the seat back a little further. I am 6’1” and have lots of leg room.
Alternator bracket supplied by a Mud member to install a higher amperage alternator from a Tundra.
Extended diff breathers.
Prodigy trailer brake controller.
Maintenance
I have replaced the following since I have owned the vehicle:
A/C compressor
Radiator (brass aftermarket)
Alternator (higher amperage form a Tundra)
Starter motor
Both batteries (AGM)
All vacuum lines and hoses including PHH
Spark plug wires and distributor cap including seal
Valve cover gasket
Oil pump seal
Universal joints
Full rebuild of front and rear axles with new seals and repacking bearings
Rear pinion seal
Rear diff gear
Springs, shocks, and steering damper.
Blue hub fan clutch
Replaced foam for driver seat and back
Windshield washer pump and rear diverter valve
The valve in the coolant line that diverts coolant for the heater temperature
ABS sensors
Brake calipers
Drilled/slotted brake rotors
1997 Collectors’ Edition
White exterior. Oak interior.
165,000 miles
Second owner. I purchased it in Florida in 2007 and drove it to California. It had 132,000 miles when I bought it which means I have put on about 30,000 miles in the last 9 years that I have owned it. I purchased from the original owner who was obsessive about the maintenance. It has lived in Miami or LA its whole life. No rust. Regular fluid changes and maintenance.
OEM front, rear, and center differential lockers. All diff locks engage and disengage quickly and consistently.
The good:
Super clean interior including leather seats in great condition with no scuffs or tears. The interior looks like this vehicle is just a few years old. Waterproof seat covers and floor mats have been in place since the vehicle was new.
No oil leaks. Runs strong with no strange noises or quirks. Perfect alignment. No accidents.
The bad:
I recently purchased a new antenna unit but it does not retract all the way. I suspect that a piece of the old cable may still be in there and it is keeping the new cable from operating correctly. I have not attempted to repair the issue.
The rear diff lock status light on the dash keeps blinking even though the diff lock is engaged. It seems to be the sensor that notices if the diff has locked. I have not bothered to look into it since the diff lock itself works great.
Paint is dull. No chips or major damage but the original luster is gone. Plenty of desert pinstriping.
Modifications:
ARB front bumper with Warn M12000 winch and Hella 4000 driving lights.
Kaymar rear bumper with spare tire swingout and custom jerry can holder on the other swingout. This holds two jerry cans plus a propane tank and can be used to as a bike carrier as well. The bike carrier allows the bikes to stay mounted while the swingout is opened to access the rear hatch.
ARB running boards with integrated front fender protection rails that mount to the front bumper.
Old Man Emu 419 front springs and 864 rear springs with new nitro charger shocks and steering damper. This is a great spring setup and provides about 3.5-4” of lift, carries a very heavy load, and is extremely comfortable on the highway. I went through several different spring configurations before settling on this setup. 315/75/16 BFG all terrain tires. I have a total of 6 of these tires. They still have decent tread left on them and are all worn very evenly.
4.56 gearing. Speedometer is accurate with 315 tires.
Slee headlight harness with aftermarket bulbs. Driving lights mounted on front bumper activate by dash switch in combination with high beams.
Long Ranger auxiliary fuel tank in the stock spare tire location. This includes the OEM dual filler neck and the OEM overhead console with fuel gauge and altimeter. The Long Ranger tank is originally 45 gallons but it sacrificed rear departure angle by hanging down further than I liked. I had the tank modified by a welder who cut the bottom 4” off the tank and welded a new stainless steel bottom in thicker 1/8” plate. This reduced the auxiliary tank capacity from 45 gallons to about 35 gallons but improved the rear departure angle substantially to the point where the tank is no longer a factor. OEM subtank switch installed in the dash to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank.
ARB dual motor compressor installed in the rear quarter panel. This is activated via a dash switch. The tank is plumbed directly to a 2.5 gallon air tank that is mounted under the chassis. There is a quick disconnect at the left rear bumper for connecting an air hose. This compressor inflates the tires very quickly.
The roof rack is ¾ length so that the sunroof can still be used.
Dual batteries. Both are Sears Die Hard Platinum AGM. One is for starting only and the other powers the winch and accessories. There is a dash mounted switch from Painless for manually connecting the two batteries.
There is #2 gauge wiring leading from the auxiliary battery directly to a junction box in the rear quarter panel. This junction box powers the air compressor and also has a set of wires that go through the D pillar and then through a roof penetration to a roof mounted plug. The plug has power/ground wires plus 3 smaller gauge wires that trace back to dash switches. These can be used to power driving lights mounted on the roof rack using relays. I do not have any lights on the roof rack but they can be added and the wiring is already in place. The junction box can also be used to tap power for a fridge.
Seat bracket modification supplied by a Mud member for moving the seat back a little further. I am 6’1” and have lots of leg room.
Alternator bracket supplied by a Mud member to install a higher amperage alternator from a Tundra.
Extended diff breathers.
Prodigy trailer brake controller.
Maintenance
I have replaced the following since I have owned the vehicle:
A/C compressor
Radiator (brass aftermarket)
Alternator (higher amperage form a Tundra)
Starter motor
Both batteries (AGM)
All vacuum lines and hoses including PHH
Spark plug wires and distributor cap including seal
Valve cover gasket
Oil pump seal
Universal joints
Full rebuild of front and rear axles with new seals and repacking bearings
Rear pinion seal
Rear diff gear
Springs, shocks, and steering damper.
Blue hub fan clutch
Replaced foam for driver seat and back
Windshield washer pump and rear diverter valve
The valve in the coolant line that diverts coolant for the heater temperature
ABS sensors
Brake calipers
Drilled/slotted brake rotors
