Ex 80 owner ... Lurking for 100

[Ting]

Hi my name is Bob! I used to own 80’s… J/K



For serious note, Yes, I used to own beautiful LX 450 with locker with blower until last night. You can see my thread about crack block on my 80s. There is no complete cure fix other than engine swap or I just keep driving...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=133329
Good bye thread….
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=133556


I just woke up in the middle of night, and I have already missed my LandCruiser. There is no question about it. I prefer the look of 80, but finding low mileage is almost impossible. When I posted my 80 on Craigslist. I got over 50 emails!!!!!!!! I got to think I am going to have to compete with those same guys if I look for another 80 again. People were begging me and calling me constantly to buy my truck eventhough I told them that I have crack block...It got to be a good reason to own 80.


I have read 80vs100 thread. So, I started to lurk on 100, and if I ever decide to buy 100, it has to be Pearl White or whatever white they call it Lexus 470! Those things are dreamy… Pure sex appeal….

I don’t plan to be rock crawler in either 80 or 100 just because I am simply not rich enough to bang things around. I am cheap too. haahaa


From what I gathered here I should look for 2000+ above! I also don’t believe in car payment, but will 98 and 99 be ok? I also heard about 100 brake master being so expensive something like 1000+ compare to $120 for 80.

So, I should look for Timing belt change, water pump change, manifold leak, etc..what else?
Thank you all…

 

[spressomon]

Hi my name is Bob! I used to own 80’s… J/K



For serious note, Yes, I used to own beautiful LX 450 with locker with blower until last night. You can see my thread about crack block on my 80s. There is no complete cure fix other than engine swap or I just keep driving...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=133329
Good bye thread….
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=133556


I just woke up in the middle of night, and I have already missed my LandCruiser. There is no question about it. I prefer the look of 80, but finding low mileage is almost impossible. When I posted my 80 on Craigslist. I got over 50 emails!!!!!!!! I got to think I am going to have to compete with those same guys if I look for another 80 again. People were begging me and calling me constantly to buy my truck eventhough I told them that I have crack block...It got to be a good reason to own 80.


I have read 80vs100 thread. So, I started to lurk on 100, and if I ever decide to buy 100, it has to be Pearl White or whatever white they call it Lexus 470! Those things are dreamy… Pure sex appeal….

I don’t plan to be rock crawler in either 80 or 100 just because I am simply not rich enough to bang things around. I am cheap too. haahaa


From what I gathered here I should look for 2000+ above! I also don’t believe in car payment, but will 98 and 99 be ok? I also heard about 100 brake master being so expensive something like 1000+ compare to $120 for 80.

So, I should look for Timing belt change, water pump change, manifold leak, etc..what else?
Thank you all…

Check the CV joint boots for leaks/tears....not that common but something to check.

 

[hoser]

Though the 00+ years are preferable, there's nothing wrong with the 98-99's. At the time I bought mine, the 00's were about $5k more. I decided to buy a 98 and use the $5k on mods. The gap in price between the '98 and '00 is smaller now. I wouldn't worry too much about the brake master cylinder--doesn't seem to be a common problem. If one was really strapped for cash, I'm sure they could source a working used one.

 

[Ting]

Thank you hoser.

Found 2001 LX 470 for $24K with less than 80K miles or so. Sounds like a deal?

 

[OGBeno]

You'll be back in an 80. Just you wait.

 

[Ting]

You'll be back in an 80. Just you wait.

You might be right. I am looking at a few right now.

 

[hoser]

Found 2001 LX 470 for $24K with less than 80K miles or so. Sounds like a deal?

As you know, the Bay Area has probably the highest pricest in the nation. I think $24k would be a fair private party asking price with some room to negotiate. 80K is not too far from it's 90k service.

I'm somewhat close to you. PM me if you want to test drive a 100 (if you haven't done so already). I'll be in San Jose tomorrow.

 

[Ting]

As you know, the Bay Area has probably the highest pricest in the nation. I think $24k would be a fair private party asking price with some room to negotiate. 80K is not too far from it's 90k service.

I'm somewhat close to you. PM me if you want to test drive a 100 (if you haven't done so already). I'll be in San Jose tomorrow.

I test drove 2005 LX470 with less than 17K miles today. Beautiful, and quiet.

Can you PM me your number?

 

[dclee]

I guess it depends on intended use, but from what I see, the 100 will be a good buy. If you'll be daily driving, then definately the 100. 2000+ gets VSC, TRAC, some other goodies. 2003+ gets the 5-speed tranny, side and curtain airbag option, interior and exterior styling revisions, etc. Check out Christo Slee's buying guide here for the real scoop:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbieUZJ100.htm

Good luck!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

An add on question.

Have there been any reported issues with the 5 speed tranny? That would be on my "must have" list. The only hesitation is that it is a new unit, and the 4 speed is tried and true. Does the 5 speed have a lower first gear??

I ask since our Sienna has a 5 speed auto, and it is a much better driving experience than any 4 speed auto I have owned. It shifts more, but always seems to be in exactly the right gear.

Can you get a 2003 without all that TRAC stuff?

 

[spressomon]

Andy,

No one, that I am aware of has had any issues with the 5-speed. But to be fair I haven't heard of anyone really pushing their '03+ yet (in an off-road sense).
Everyone that has had both the 4-spd and the 5-spd concur the 5-spd is much smoother and better matched to the power band of the 4.7 particularly for highway driving and/or hilly terrain. The only drawback for how I have my rig set-up has to do with the r&p ratio of 4.10 on the '03+ years (4.30 on 02- years). I haven't done the calc to see if a 4.56 would return to near stock final drive ratio with 35" tires or not...certainly the 4.88 wouldn't be ideal. Then again...maybe with some fender trimming, etc. 37"/4.88 might be the combo .

No...as far as USA destined LC's...sans TRAC is not an option. Although if I had an '03+ I would have to install ARB's front and rear anyway.

Hoser, I think, posted up the tranny/drive ratio comparison sometime ago...hoser?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks for the reply.

One of my best friends has a 2003 (he had a 1999) that I think he is almost done with. It's his wife's dd to haul their 3 kids. At my reccomendation(thinking ahead), he has used Mobil 1 from the start and even now it has only 30k miles, but all in town. The only defect is a slight bend in the underside of the passenger running board that he got when he was with me. (Don't ask, and his wife still doesn't know). I'm thinking this could be a nice dd for me at some point. Unfortunately, when that day comes though I will be forced to sell a truck, so I hope it isn't too soon.

 

[Dan Skye]

Yeh!!!

You'll be back in an 80. Just you wait.

Why not fix the heck out of your current ride
No new car can beat the pride and satifaction of making something with your own "hands". Here you have the opportunity to have it"your way" dude .
Be the 1st one on your block to have an 80 with a hybrid powerplant under the hood,eh?
Look at the way even some of the early cruisers were brought back to better then new:
That s "wood" right there if ya know what I mean....
Cheers
D
PS sorry to hear about the busted block...

 

[lcfool]

Can you get a 2003 without all that TRAC stuff?

In the 80 vs 100 war, i mean "thread", Mr. Slee made it sound like getting rid of TRAC was just a matter of pulling a fuse. If that's the case, wouldn't it be relatively simple to add your own switch for turning it on/off (assuming you're out of warranty)? Or is that over-simplifying...

 

[spressomon]

In the 80 vs 100 war, i mean "thread", Mr. Slee made it sound like getting rid of TRAC was just a matter of pulling a fuse. If that's the case, wouldn't it be relatively simple to add your own switch for turning it on/off (assuming you're out of warranty)? Or is that over-simplifying...

As long as it doesn't interupt ABS entirely (how does VSC interelate to ABS/TRAC electronically?). But either way, to navigate off-road without TRAC, you would need lockers in the rear as a minimum...and front and rear as ideal; and TRAC is elimiated, by default, when the lockers are activated.

 

[ChuckB]

and if I ever decide to buy 100, it has to be Pearl White or whatever white they call it Lexus 470! Those things are dreamy… Pure sex appeal….

Do it!!!! I have no complaints, I've had mine for about 4 months now.

Mine is a '00 just for reference and I paid just under $22K with 78,XXX miles.



Last weekend Windward side...

 

[hoser]

The only drawback for how I have my rig set-up has to do with the r&p ratio of 4.10 on the '03+ years (4.30 on 02- years). I haven't done the calc to see if a 4.56 would return to near stock final drive ratio with 35" tires or not...certainly the 4.88 wouldn't be ideal.

Hoser, I think, posted up the tranny/drive ratio comparison sometime ago...hoser?

I think 4.88's and the 5-speed tranny would be the PERFECT combination with 35's.

4sp/4.88 vs 5sp/4.88:

A343F "4-sp Auto" (Effective Ratio=Gear X Diff gear)
- 1st Gear 2.804 (13.68)
- 2nd Gear 1.531 (7.47)
- 3rd Gear 1.000 (4.88)
- 4th Gear 0.753 (3.67)
- Reverse 2.393 (11.68)
Diff Ratio 4.88

A750F "5-sp Auto" with 4.88's
- 1st Gear 3.520 (17.18)
- 2nd Gear 2.042 (9.96)
- 3rd Gear 1.40 (6.83)
- 4th Gear 1.00 (4.88)
- 5th Gear 0.716 (3.49)
- Reverse Gear 3.244 (15.83)
Diff Ratio 4.88

Currently I have the 4sp/4.88/35's. I'm happy with my freeway gearing but I would like a lower 1st gear. As you can see, the 5sp/4.88 combo has a much lower first gear yet the top gear is similiar to the 4sp/4.88's top gear.

Comparing crawl ratios:

4sp/4.88/2.488 (transfer case in low) would give you a first gear of 34.04
5sp/4.88/2.488 would be 42.74

 

[spressomon]

I think 4.88's and the 5-speed tranny would be the PERFECT combination with 35's.

4sp/4.88 vs 5sp/4.88:

A343F "4-sp Auto" (Effective Ratio=Gear X Diff gear)
- 1st Gear 2.804 (13.68)
- 2nd Gear 1.531 (7.47)
- 3rd Gear 1.000 (4.88)
- 4th Gear 0.753 (3.67)
- Reverse 2.393 (11.68)
Diff Ratio 4.88

A750F "5-sp Auto" with 4.88's
- 1st Gear 3.520 (17.18)
- 2nd Gear 2.042 (9.96)
- 3rd Gear 1.40 (6.83)
- 4th Gear 1.00 (4.88)
- 5th Gear 0.716 (3.49)
- Reverse Gear 3.244 (15.83)
Diff Ratio 4.88

Currently I have the 4sp/4.88/35's. I'm happy with my freeway gearing but I would like a lower 1st gear. As you can see, the 5sp/4.88 combo has a much lower first gear yet the top gear is similiar to the 4sp/4.88's top gear.

Comparing crawl ratios:

4sp/4.88/2.488 (transfer case in low) would give you a first gear of 34.04
5sp/4.88/2.488 would be 42.74

You're so good! I agree the 4.88/35"/4spd is great/perfect but a lower first gear (effective) would be even better. And this is where I noticed signifiant improvement post 4.88/35 on my '99 (I really hated the effective higher 1st gear when I ran the stock 4.30's with 33"...hated the low end almost as much as I hated the mid-range).



I was just hoping you would say 37"/4.88/'03+ LC would be the bomb ...

 

[hoser]

37"/5.29/4sp wouldn't be a bad combo either!

 

[dclee]

In the 80 vs 100 war, i mean "thread", Mr. Slee made it sound like getting rid of TRAC was just a matter of pulling a fuse. If that's the case, wouldn't it be relatively simple to add your own switch for turning it on/off (assuming you're out of warranty)? Or is that over-simplifying...

Don't get in an accident!!! The liability, given that you knowingly disabled a safety/traction device, could be horrendous...

Of course, if it's only for trail use, I guess that's (marginally) better, since you (probably) won't hit someone else and get sued...