Everything Front Axle

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concretejungle

concretejungle

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Two questions:

First, i thought that the FSM write-up on torquing the wheel bearings was a bit confusing. Actually had 3 of us confused. It states to torque the inner lock nut to i think 46, spin wheel, back off to hand tight, then retorque to 12ft/lbs? (i'm not looking at the manual, just trying to remember) but then when you put on the locking tab and tighten down the second locking nut it says to check the first locking nut's preload? How the heck do you check it with the outter nut in place? Do you think that 10 ft/lbs is too much (after seating them)?

Second, now that i have new rotors, pads, seals, grease, diff oil, i am noticing a slight pull to the right when stopping. Do you think this is just the pads and rotors getting broken-in? I jacked the truck up, spun the front wheels, then applied the brakes, let off, and spun the wheels again and the calipers don't seem to be sticking. Just worried.

And it took me 8 solid hours. :doh:
 
that's 8 hrs with the Birfs?
that's good IIRC...
E
 
the second nut is torqued up to the first nut not to the hub so the preload should be the same as before you added it. The second test is a way to check you did not accidentily torque up the first nut when torquing the second. If you do that your bearings will melt.
 
Off the top of my head - you torque the nut to 48 ft-lbs, spin 5x forward and back, loosen and re-torque to 48 in-lbs (4 ft-lbs), install lock ring and torque outer nut to 48 ft-lbs. The preload should then be 6-12 lbs with a fish scale rotating the wheel stud - if it's more than that you have to re-start the whole process over.

Tucker
 
I think the problem is your getting your nuts mixed up. The inner nut (adjusting nut) sets and holds the tension on the bearings. The outside nut is just a locknut used in conjunction with the washer. What the sequence is supposed to do is make sure the bearings are seated properly and not riding on grease etc. That is why they have you tighten to 43 ft/lbs., rotate back and forth, retorque, then loosen to hand tight. That makes sure everything is seated properly (hopefully you got the races in all the way). The last part is to retighten the inside or adjusting nut so that when a spring tension gauge (a.k.a. fish scale) is pulled parallel with the rotor from one of the wheel studs, the gauge reads between 6.4 and 12.6 ft/lbs. Then lock it down with the washer and lock nut. They have you recheck the preload with the spring tension gauge after the locknut because the adjusting nut may have turned a little when the locknut was being tightened. :slap: I just have the FSM for a 97 but there is a picture of the spring tension gauge and where to hook it up beside the instructions that may help you.
As far as the pulling goes maybe some grease or oil got on one of the rotors, or the brakes may need bled. I don't know how air would have gotten into the system but it would be worth a try. For sure I would recheck the tension on the adjusting nuts as you don't want them too loose or too tight and it does not sound like you have it quite right. FWIW, I probably have done thousands of bearing preloads and have never owned a spring tension gauge and have never had a problem. There is just a feel as you turn it where there is a slight drag. Too tight and the bearing can get hot and sieze, pull to the side, etc. Too loose and it will ruin the bearing quickly as it is not fully seated in the race.

Bill
 
thanks for the info guys. I think i have it right. I didn't use a fish scale, but have the socket and a new snap-on torque wrench and found that hand tight is about 10-12 ft/lbs. I was just a bit confused while reading the FSM about this process and wish i was near my computer for support.

I'll bleed the brakes, but i'm not sure how any air would have gotten in. It seems that right pull is getting less and less (hope this means that it was just a bit of grease from my hands on the rotor wearing away). Anyways, it drives soooo much better now. Smoother and while braking the steering wheel no longer shakes out of my hand.

I'm really glad i tackled this when i did because when i took off the passenger side spindle, gear oil just poured out. There wasn't any grease in there.
 
Whomever is doing the write-up, I hope they can get their units right. Torque is measured in "ft-lbs" or "in-lbs", not "feet-per-pounds" (ft/lbs).

Tucker- I thought you were an engineer?? Shame.. Shame :slap:.

:D

Rookie2
 
I know... sorry, but sometimes you wonder when you see someone using the same units when talking about torqueing a torque wrench or pulling on a fish scale, and both are wrong.

:beer:
Rookie2

[quote author=Photoman link=board=2;threadid=15054;start=msg141769#msg141769 date=1082410971]
That is why they have you tighten to 43 ft/lbs., rotate back and forth, retorque, ... spring tension gauge (a.k.a. fish scale) is pulled parallel with the rotor from one of the wheel studs, the gauge reads between 6.4 and 12.6 ft/lbs.
[/quote]
 
[quote author=concretejungle link=board=2;threadid=15054;start=msg142087#msg142087 date=1082465966]
Anyways, it drives soooo much better now. Smoother and while braking the steering wheel no longer shakes out of my hand.
[/quote]

Can birdfields needing redone cause steering wheel shakes?
 
Anything is possible. Not likey the birfield but wheel bearings, warped rotors or a bent wheel. If you don't know the history start with a complete birfield service, wheel bearing repack and inspect all the parts for abnormal wear. This includes the rotors, calipers and pads.
 
i finally got around to un-plugging the brake resevoir sensor (since it is such a labor intensive process :D) and what do you know, the brake light no longer intermitantly comes on and goes off. Fixed! :cheers:

One other thing, woody, can we please get a spell check on this board? My spelling is horrible. :doh:
 
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