Engine Ticking/Tapping Sound at lower RPM's...

[Shickalee]

My bother borrowed my 96' Land Cruiser with approx 235k miles to move his 21' Mako Center Console boat approx 3 miles when his Trailblazer EXT was in the shop. When he returned my truck it had a tapping/ticking sound that would go away at approx 1500 rpm's with no noticeable loss in overall performance, at least at this point. First thing I did was check the oil and darn namit it was down approx 2 quarts. I topped off the oil and took the truck to my mechanic. It was late Friday when he got back to me and he said that while the engine was running in idle he disconnected one spark plug at a time to see if he could isolate the sound to a cylinder and sure enough it was cylinder #2. He basically, said he felt that the cylinder was likely starting to go bad prior and that putting the engine under load likely was the straw that broke the camels back. We didn't get into anymore detail but he basically said just drive it for now and that as long as the ticking doesn't turn into a knock I will be fine for the short term (the proverbial don't take it on any long trips) but at some point in the near future I need to drop in a rebuilt or used engine. Thought I would put it out there to see if there was any chance of a different outcome?

 

[slow95z]

a tick that goes away as you rev up does sounds like a bad engine to me. as you rev up the oil pressure goes up and makes the tick stop. for now i would try thicker oil and see if that helps. i would start saving up for a rebuild down the road. it might make it another 50K with that tick or it might go out this week. never know.

 

[FJ80Duo]

Mine has had a low RPM valve tap for many years. I've even had people compliment my "diesel conversion" because it sounds like that. I have the 3FE though, so it's probably not exactly the same story as yours. If you're going to rebuild it, may as well get every last inch out of it.

 

[Shickalee]

Mine has had a low RPM valve tap for many years. I've even had people compliment my "diesel conversion" because it sounds like that. I have the 3FE though, so it's probably not exactly the same story as yours. If you're going to rebuild it, may as well get every last inch out of it.

Funny, you say that... I have a buddy locally that I met on MUD that I just texted that I got my new diesel conversion.

 

[Shickalee]

Mine has had a low RPM valve tap for many years. I've even had people compliment my "diesel conversion" because it sounds like that. I have the 3FE though, so it's probably not exactly the same story as yours. If you're going to rebuild it, may as well get every last inch out of it.

Yep, I will drive it until it can't move me down the rode anymore like U S Marshal Reuben J. Cogburn rode his horse in True Grit till it dropped of exhaustion, then when the motor is hissing, moaning and smoking I will take out my revolver for the mercy-kill.

 

[Shickalee]

a tick that goes away as you rev up does sounds like a bad engine to me. as you rev up the oil pressure goes up and makes the tick stop. for now i would try thicker oil and see if that helps. i would start saving up for a rebuild down the road. it might make it another 50K with that tick or it might go out this week. never know.

How is 5w30 with Motor Oil Honey...http://www.casite.com/products/oil-additives/motor-honey-oil-treatment ?

 

[LS1FJ40]

Mine has had a low RPM valve tap for many years. I've even had people compliment my "diesel conversion" because it sounds like that. I have the 3FE though, so it's probably not exactly the same story as yours. If you're going to rebuild it, may as well get every last inch out of it.

I have had multiple "mechanics" tell me I've got a "lifter going bad" or "a knock". The first time one told me that was in 1993 when my 80 was a year old. I too have the sewing machine/diesel/tractor motored 3FE. She just keeps on a ticking...

 

[OffGridOverland]

I'd do a Leakdown test. Then go from there.

 

[Shickalee]

I'd do a Leakdown test. Then go from there.

Thanks, all run that by my mechanic.

 

[Shickalee]

Well after receiving the advise from mechanic to just drive the 80 with the tapping/light knock and save up for a rebuild or swap. I picked up the 80 and just was driving it on an as needed basis when the 80 was the only option. After getting the suggestion to do a leak down test I dropped the 80 back at the shop. I am starting to 2nd guess the point of a leak down test, is there any reason to do a leak down test after the spark plug test done by a competent mechanic determined that the sound indeed does go away when the #2 cylinder spark plug wire is disconnected.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Like others have said, run some thicker oil, the rest of the world runs 15W40, the 5W40 we run here is to get around emissions...

I run Rottella T with a qt. of Lucas usually, it purrs like a kitten, that's what I run in both of mine actually, and never had a problem in (100k on one and 15k on the other).

See if the Lucas and thicker oil shuts it up...

If not, drop the pan, and throw some new rod bearing in it...

Doubt that the rings and/or cylinders are worn to the point that they need any attention...

Being that when your brother borrowed it, it was 2 qts low, it could have starved for oil if the oil wasn't warm and it was run at relatively high RPM's (I've noticed that my oil light will come on when the motors cold and I run a constant 2000 RPM's or so, due to the oil not running down to the sump from the head quick enough...

Running it under load and starved for oil, even only for a bit, will cause a knock in a hurry!!

Good luck man, get that thing fixed and enjoy it!!

 

[Shickalee]

Like others have said, run some thicker oil, the rest of the world runs 15W40, the 5W40 we run here is to get around emissions...

I run Rottella T with a qt. of Lucas usually, it purrs like a kitten, that's what I run in both of mine actually, and never had a problem in (100k on one and 15k on the other).

See if the Lucas and thicker oil shuts it up...

If not, drop the pan, and throw some new rod bearing in it...

Doubt that the rings and/or cylinders are worn to the point that they need any attention...

Being that when your brother borrowed it, it was 2 qts low, it could have starved for oil if the oil wasn't warm and it was run at relatively high RPM's (I've noticed that my oil light will come on when the motors cold and I run a constant 2000 RPM's or so, due to the oil not running down to the sump from the head quick enough...

Running it under load and starved for oil, even only for a bit, will cause a knock in a hurry!!

Good luck man, get that thing fixed and enjoy it!!

Can I replace just the #2 cylinder bearings? I am planning to do a V8 swap on the 80 and I am only at stage 1 - procuring donor motor, trans, and transfer case. Wanted to get stage 1 done, lick my wounds and save up for the swap labor and drive the 80 until I am ready to pony up the expense and be in a position to be without the 80 for an extended time. I am not there right now as my wife's 100 is in the middle of major body repair (rear), my son picked up a 05 Impreza with a blown engine that needs to be swapped both of these projects come before my 80 project but I was counting on the 80 to be in good running condition.

I don't want to pour a lot of money into 80 1FZ engine since a v8 swap is the game plan. So my two options are thickening up the oil via 15w40 and adding an additive. I did add a bottle of Honey Motor Oil to the M1 5W30 but ticking hasn't noticeably improved. I don't want to put any "real" money into the 80 engine but dropping the 1-2 pan and throwing bearings on the #2 cylinder might be the best plan even in the short run. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


Also is this normal for oil pressure;

at start-up...

Oil Pressure at cold start

• Shickalee
• Aug 30, 2015

After approx 5 min after startup...

Oil Pressure in idle approx 5 min after cold start

• Shickalee
• Aug 30, 2015

 

[LS1FJ40]

My 92 with a 3FE doesn't do that. It stays about the same. Goes up a touch when RPMs increase. Seems awfully low. Maybe someone wit a 1FZ-FE will chime in.

 

[Shickalee]

Mine has had a low RPM valve tap for many years. I've even had people compliment my "diesel conversion" because it sounds like that. I have the 3FE though, so it's probably not exactly the same story as yours. If you're going to rebuild it, may as well get every last inch out of it.

Unfortunately, in reality mine sounds more like a broken sewing machine then a manly diesel, so the sound is very annoying.

 

[rfakhrai]

I have a 1FZ-FE and I've never seen the oil pressure gauge get that low.

 

[Shickalee]

I have a 1FZ-FE and I've never seen the oil pressure gauge get that low.

Well noted. What does your oil pressure gauge read when warm at idle?

 

[rfakhrai]

Right about at the 1/3 tick IIRC. I can check when I leave work today.

 

[team420]

mine goes up to the 3/4 mark on cold start, and stays between 1/4 and half after warm, depending on engine speed.

 

[Shickalee]

Right about at the 1/3 tick IIRC. I can check when I leave work today.

Cool thx...

 

[half k cruiser]

Can I replace just the #2 cylinder bearings?]

You could, if your going to have the motor out though, why not just replace all of them ? Rockauto sells the Japanese made Clevite bearings. You can do mains, rod bearings, and the thrust washers for less than $100. Once the motor is out of course.