Engine temps when towing

  • Thread starter Rusty Marlin
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Tedward

Tedward

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How long did the Toyota replacement fluid last?
Why was the 10K fluid burned in 18mo? That isn't "normal" is it?
Am I going to be adding this to the PM list?
I don't have the part numbers for the oil handy and have no way of knowing if there is any difference between the brands. However, I did buy and use Toyota branded silicone oil.
 
Tedward

Tedward

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3,000 Cst. = 08816-03001
6,000 Cst. = 08816-06001
10,000 Cst. = 08816-10001

ToyotaSiliconeFliu.jpg


-B-

OK, talked to C-Dan, he is very busy today, so don't everyone call him at once!:D Beowulf's numbers are correct, Thanks Mike! :cheers:

3,000 Cst. = 08816-03001 List $10.39 some in stock.
6,000 Cst. = 08816-06001 Good number code C, takes longer to get, didn't get price.
10,000 Cst. = 08816-10001 Code B not in stock, can be ordered, list $11.16
 
enox

enox

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So the problem solved itself once the system was fully burped?

I know there are tons of threads regarding proper burping of the system, but I have found that a few drives with temperature cycles and the heater valve opened the system will purge itself no issue.

Have you also considered sanding down the cap neck?

@Rusty Marlin Sorry for hijacking your thread.... :flipoff2:
Just finished the radiator and driving for like an hour hot outside.. I noticed I have a small leak out of the breather hose, doesn't fit right enough with the factory clamp..

PXL 20210713 220821241
 
Rusty Marlin

Rusty Marlin

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Nice jeep. What is that a CJ6? is there such a thing? I have a few flat fenders that I enjoy but I'm not an expert on what came after or what you've got on the trailer.

Also, agree w above and you are definitely running hot and sounds like a fan clutch issue. I'd check the timing on it (see what temps the ports open) as well and adjust if needed when apart but I'm not sure most folks do that.
Its an M170 Front Line Ambulance (1954)

I need to look up the "timing thing". I assume its a matter of putting it in a pan of water with a thermometer and observing some ports.
 
jpoole

jpoole

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Nice Jeep!

There's some good discussion around the forum on timing the fan clutch port openings but it's scattered around in the more common discussions on fan clutch fluid changing. I assume that the majority of folks just change the fluid and don't mess with adjusting the opening temps for the fluid ports.

Post #70 shows some info/pictures that should go along way towards communicating what's involved with adjusting the ports:


A lot of folks on the forum, like tools r us (rip) and others from very hot climates, have experimented and know a lot about what works well here. Read what they say on fluid/silicone oil weights in particular if you are curious about what may work best with the clutch you have and climate you drive in.

I made an attempt to explain my understanding of the adjustment in post #4 here and then more links and discussion follow where you can find better information and more pictures :)

 
LongDuck

LongDuck

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It seems to have settled down in spit of several 117F days, so I'm leaving it alone for the time being. Once all of the air was out of the system, the OEM cap sealed well enough not to cure problems, and that's my measure of success. I'm not swapping radiators unless I need to.
 
Rusty Marlin

Rusty Marlin

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New information:
Pulled the fan clutch to re-oil it and low and behold, the PO put in some lightweight POS.
Gonna put in a 16120-66020 and see if that takes care of the heat issues.
 

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