I need some help. I have searched and found some help, but I think it has made me more confused.
I havent driven the 40 in a few months, basically all winter, and I had to start driving it again last week because I loaned my friend my DD for a few days. Before I pulled it out of the carport I checked all fluids, etc and everything was good to go. I drove it to work, not paying any attention to my gauges (my speedo is currently broken so didnt have to look at that haha). I drove it Thursday and friday last week, then again today. Today on my way to work I noticed that 1) according to my gauge the 40 heated up quicker than usual and 2) it kept climbing above normal temperature. I proceed to freak out a bit but baby it to work (its about a 4 mile drive, so not bad). The needle only ever reached the 3rd mark and a tiny bit above, but it is usually closer to the 2nd, so it had me worried. I pulled up at work expecting to see coolant coming from the overflow, or SOMETHING, but no fluids leaking at all. While at work I searched here and gained some knowledge on the subject. I cut off the plastic end of the wire going to the sensor and just wrapped it around the end of the sensor (something I have done in a pinch on my old 60), but I had to extend the wire a little bit and used some wire that was a heavier gauge than the wire already in use, not sure if that would have an affect? I proceeded to drive home and the gauge failed to move at all this time, staying below the cold mark. I found this thread: Water Temperature Sending Unit
the 4th post I believe, by grant5127, tells how to test both the gauge and the sensor. I tried testing both, but am a little confused on the results.
1) Testing the sensor when the engine had just driven the 4 miles home and was warmed up I got nothing on my voltmeter when set to ohms and one probe on the tip of the sensor and another on the block, seems i should have seen something between 50 to 90 ohms. once in awhile I would get some random ohm reading that seemed way out of spec, it was measuring K ohms. This tells me the sensor is bad, but did i do this right?
2) When I test the gauge as described it doesnt peg out to HOT. My gauge, when the car is off and key out, points past HOT, when I turn the key to on position or start the car it goes down to COLD. My test was unhooking the lead going to the sensor and grounding it to the battery, which is basically what I thought I was supposed to do, but when I do this it pegs to COLD, not HOT, when I have the gauge not connected to ground or the sensor it pegs to HOT. where his directions for a 72+ model?
I might have a spare sensor on my extra head, definitely have one on my parts 60, but that one is different I think. Gonna go see what I can round up here.
thanks for any help!
I havent driven the 40 in a few months, basically all winter, and I had to start driving it again last week because I loaned my friend my DD for a few days. Before I pulled it out of the carport I checked all fluids, etc and everything was good to go. I drove it to work, not paying any attention to my gauges (my speedo is currently broken so didnt have to look at that haha). I drove it Thursday and friday last week, then again today. Today on my way to work I noticed that 1) according to my gauge the 40 heated up quicker than usual and 2) it kept climbing above normal temperature. I proceed to freak out a bit but baby it to work (its about a 4 mile drive, so not bad). The needle only ever reached the 3rd mark and a tiny bit above, but it is usually closer to the 2nd, so it had me worried. I pulled up at work expecting to see coolant coming from the overflow, or SOMETHING, but no fluids leaking at all. While at work I searched here and gained some knowledge on the subject. I cut off the plastic end of the wire going to the sensor and just wrapped it around the end of the sensor (something I have done in a pinch on my old 60), but I had to extend the wire a little bit and used some wire that was a heavier gauge than the wire already in use, not sure if that would have an affect? I proceeded to drive home and the gauge failed to move at all this time, staying below the cold mark. I found this thread: Water Temperature Sending Unit
the 4th post I believe, by grant5127, tells how to test both the gauge and the sensor. I tried testing both, but am a little confused on the results.
1) Testing the sensor when the engine had just driven the 4 miles home and was warmed up I got nothing on my voltmeter when set to ohms and one probe on the tip of the sensor and another on the block, seems i should have seen something between 50 to 90 ohms. once in awhile I would get some random ohm reading that seemed way out of spec, it was measuring K ohms. This tells me the sensor is bad, but did i do this right?
2) When I test the gauge as described it doesnt peg out to HOT. My gauge, when the car is off and key out, points past HOT, when I turn the key to on position or start the car it goes down to COLD. My test was unhooking the lead going to the sensor and grounding it to the battery, which is basically what I thought I was supposed to do, but when I do this it pegs to COLD, not HOT, when I have the gauge not connected to ground or the sensor it pegs to HOT. where his directions for a 72+ model?
I might have a spare sensor on my extra head, definitely have one on my parts 60, but that one is different I think. Gonna go see what I can round up here.
thanks for any help!
