Engine problems in 2000 4Runner

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change of subject, have you contacted my neighbor on the four letter truck. I can't even type it, knowing that I am helping someone buy a DROF (spelled backward)

k
 
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Give Jason Butell a ring, he's pretty informed on issues that effect the 3.4. If you haven't checked TTORA try a search there.
 
2fpower said:
change of subject, have you contacted my neighbor on the four letter truck. I can't even type it, knowing that I am helping someone buy a DROF (spelled backward)

k
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Hijacker!!! Yes, Clint (buyer) spoke with him last week about the "DROF". We may try to get over your way this week. I'll let you know.
 
IBCRUSN said:
Give Jason Butell a ring, he's pretty informed on issues that effect the 3.4. If you haven't checked TTORA try a search there.
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Can you pm me Jason's #? BTW, I'll send out your SWR meter tomorrow. Thanks, Eric
 
Eric, few things. There is some, although minute, play in the crankshaft front to back. With that in mind, any noises, leaks, pinging, check engine light?

Also, how are you able to isolate the crankshaft and move it independent the pulley? Did you remove the crank pulley (not the guide), and what does the key on the crank look like? I've read/heard of the key breaking from improper crank nut torque.

Let me do a little more reading, and I'll get back with ya. But what you're describing so far is completely new to me.
 
Ick. Guessing Jenn's truck is sick huh?
Do you have the FSM and see what spec is ? I just got 1 of 3 of the FSM's for my Jenn's truck. the first book is approx 4+ inches thick and it doesnt' even have the part on how to fix stuff.
 
when repacing the timing belt I had the balancer/pulley off the end of the crank. I was able to push and pull on the end of the crank and move it approx 1/4". Not sure what the spec is, but I know it is much less than that. Strange thing is that it runs great. No check engine lights, knocking or anything else. Hell, I got 20mpg with it last tank!
The thrust bearings are around 60bux (I think), and the pan gasket is cheap enough. I'll probably drop the pan and go ahead and replace the bearings for safe measure. I would like to know what is causing this in an auto trans truck though. I have heard of torque converters that can expand when they get warm and put forward pressure on the crank, but I'm only speculating.

Jason, give me a call if you have any thoughts.
Eric 816-699-3594
 
From my experience and all I can find, you'll be the first to have this problem. I was pretty sure that on these engines to check the crankshaft end play, you do so with the pulley and crank bolt (torqued to 217) in place, not when removed. And if it was out of spec, your crank position sensor would be screaming and there would be oil seapage from the seal (as well as horrible noises, sputtering, and obvious signs).

If you feel you must, replace the thrust bearings, but I wouldn't based on what you've typed. FSMs can be found in our section, or Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page

The torque converter problems were generally on the porsches and ford SHOs, go figure. I still think yours is fine, unless there's something you're not telling us :hillbilly:
 
Wouldn't all the main bearings have to be worn for this much movement? Seems like the crank would be worn something crazy too at the bearing surface. For it to move that much, seems like the connecting rods would have to have a lot of play, therefore those bearings would be suspect.

This sounds like some urban legend. Too strange to believe.

Actually, reminds me of the Army's A-10 Warthog plane that will fly back to the base with holes in the fuselage and wings as big as kegs of beer
 
OK, OK, I'll crawl under there tonite to check it with everything being put together. I doubt that it will be any different though since the balancer only butts up to the timing belt gear. When I noticed the play I had my hand on the timing gear and crank together and the gear wasn't sliding on the crank.

I've done Amsoil synthetic since 50k mi. with their recomended 15k mi change intervals - maybe that was a bad idea..:hhmm:
Oil analysis always came back ok with TBN a little low, however I haven't done analysis on the last couple of changes.

After talking with Eric Jobe he better explained that all torque converters "balloon" and that that most likely isn't the problem.
 
Just checked it. It's still about 1/4" of movement as far as I can tell with a tape measure. Jen has been driving it all day and she says it's run fine. I plan to tear into it tomorrow evening to see what it looks like.
 
just talking crazy like...

Before you drop the pan, if you take off the transmission (inspection), torque converter plate, does it and the crankshaft slide the same 1/4 inch on that side?
 
2fpower said:
just talking crazy like...

Before you drop the pan, if you take off the transmission (inspection), torque converter plate, does it and the crankshaft slide the same 1/4 inch on that side?
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I sure hope so!! If not I have bigger problems than I thought!! I'll check it tomorrow BEFORE I drop the front diff and pan.
 
I am on the other end of the spectrum.... I hope not.

In the little reading that I have done, hoping it is the keyway and the 200 lb pound torquing of the front hub on the crank.

Otherwise, it sounds like a whole heap of work.
 
I still can't find the crankshaft end play spec, found camshaft specs, irregarless I'm sure it's less than you're measuring. Finally found a link regarding thrust washers on a 22R. This guy found his in the pan, but just left them out and put it all back together and drove it another 50K :hillbilly:
My Toyota Truck

The very best person to check with would be Gadget, owner of URD performance and tweeker of 3.4s. Don't know if the info's still correct or not, but try gadget@gadgetonline.com This guy is like the Erik C of 3rd gens.

And if it's appart this weekend, I'd be more than happy to come by.
 
For Sale: Boat Anchor

Well, it looks like the 3.4 is toast. The thrust bearings were laying in the oil pan. The crank and block are badly worn where they have been in contact with one another for some time. The grove where the upper thrust bearing is supposed to go is completely worn away! I still can't believe how well the engine runs in it's sorry condition.
To top it all off, when I drained the the front diff I found 2 spider gear teeth on the magnet. CRAP!!! One more thing to fix.
So, I'm in the market for a good used 3.4V6 if anyone knows where I might find one. :bang:
 
ebutlerfj40 said:
I still can't believe how well the engine runs in it's sorry condition.
To top it all off, when I drained the the front diff I found 2 spider gear teeth on the magnet.
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Guess you could do like the guy in the link did, put it all back together and drive it until you find a suitable replacement. I'm amazed there were no signs/problems. Maybe time to buy Jenn a family wagon, and off load the foewunna.

And spider gears in the front diff? How much desert racing did this thing see?

Sorry to hear about this Eric, 200k is good, but I expected much better.
 
Tell Jenn to quit jumping that thing in the back forty..
I once sourced a celica engine from one of those Japanese engine exchange places. worked. well.. Had to change injectors etc on it but went right in and fired up and ran..
 
Diesel swap! There it is.

Or 7M-GTE! And based on the spider gear failure, probably should go ahead and throw a solid axle under there.
 
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