Engine not starting (1 Viewer)

Joined
Aug 10, 2018
Messages
398
Location
Bozeman, MT
Well, it looks like nothing would have fallen in from the top. Yeah, next step is to open it up and see what's what. I'd suggest using the forum to find a schematic before you go much further.
 

T3C

Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Tampa
Also, not transmission fluid!

On the subject of trans fluid... what is the recommended fluid to refill the transmission case with? Is it just GL5gear oil? I am located in Florida with regards to temperature/ climate. I just tried to dipstick the transmission case with a paper towel, and it is looking pretty dry in there...
 

Steamer

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
1,491
Location
Miami, FL
In “THIS” thread, I delt with two problems. 1, popping out of gear and 2, getting stuck in neutral. The pics & vids may help you see what happens in there. The pics show the whole top plate removed but if you remove just the shift cane you can see and align the shift gates into neutral and then re-insert the shift cane. That should fix your stuck problem. Note that when rotating the cup to remove, not all years turn in the same direction to remove. You can try both ways but it’s nice to know which way your year goes as they can be sticky if it hasn’t been out in a while.
 

Steamer

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
1,491
Location
Miami, FL
On the subject of trans fluid... what is the recommended fluid to refill the transmission case with? Is it just GL5gear oil? I am located in Florida with regards to temperature/ climate. I just tried to dipstick the transmission case with a paper towel, and it is looking pretty dry in there...
The proper method is to fill with gear oil through the upper plug on the side until it starts to overflow out. That's full.
 

T3C

Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Tampa
In “THIS” thread, I delt with two problems. 1, popping out of gear and 2, getting stuck in neutral. The pics & vids may help you see what happens in there. The pics show the whole top plate removed but if you remove just the shift cane you can see and align the shift gates into neutral and then re-insert the shift cane. That should fix your stuck problem. Note that when rotating the cup to remove, not all years turn in the same direction to remove. You can try both ways but it’s nice to know which way your year goes as they can be sticky if it hasn’t been out in a while.


I will read through this now. I saw a truck for removing the cane via cutting a hood in the center of a rubberized mat and using a wrench on top of the mat. Are there any other methods?

The proper method is to fill with gear oil through the upper plug on the side until it starts to overflow out. That's full.

It is definitely low then. I will drain and fill tomorrow. What is the proper fluid replacement? GL5 gear oil? Any specific weight for a Florida vehicle?
 

T3C

Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Tampa
Going to remove the cane and fill the trans today now that I have GL-4 fluid. Hopefully this un-freezes my transmission.

However, I also want to figure what is causing my severe overrevs on startup. I've fired up the engine a couple times now since fitting the new pump, and it revs like the gas pedal is just mashed to the floor. Is it possible the new fuel pump is working "too" well (i.e. sending fuel at a pressure too high for the carb)? I could see fuel dripping quickly out of the carb once I turned off the engine. Also, I am uploading this video of the carb. While manually pulling the cable throttle I am noticing that the flaps are not opening and closing when the cable is pulled/released. Is this normal? it doesn't seem normal. . I don't know if theses two issues (1. fuel pump too strong, 2. flaps not closing) are related or if they are separate. Any ideas where to start? I'd like to pull the carb off the engine, but I don't know how to disconnect the choke line.
 

flee

SILVER Star
Joined
May 27, 2020
Messages
189
Location
Chatsworth
Going to remove the cane and fill the trans today now that I have GL-4 fluid. Hopefully this un-freezes my transmission.

However, I also want to figure what is causing my severe overrevs on startup. I've fired up the engine a couple times now since fitting the new pump, and it revs like the gas pedal is just mashed to the floor. Is it possible the new fuel pump is working "too" well (i.e. sending fuel at a pressure too high for the carb)? I could see fuel dripping quickly out of the carb once I turned off the engine. Also, I am uploading this video of the carb. While manually pulling the cable throttle I am noticing that the flaps are not opening and closing when the cable is pulled/released. Is this normal? it doesn't seem normal. . I don't know if theses two issues (1. fuel pump too strong, 2. flaps not closing) are related or if they are separate. Any ideas where to start? I'd like to pull the carb off the engine, but I don't know how to disconnect the choke line.
Hopefully you read my post above about Webers and fuel pressure. Holley makes a low cost fuel pressure regulator with an extra port for a
pressure gauge. Be sure to get the one that adjusts to below 4 psi. I think mine was under $20. Here is a photo of my mounting idea.
IMG_0746.JPG

As for the butterfly on top of the carb, that is the choke and will open after an adjustable amount of time if it is connected to the IGN power.
The carb's float or float valve may be old or damaged and allowing excess fuel to flood the engine and cause your over-revving, etc.
X2 on rebuilding the carb. The west coast importer, Carbs Unlimited, has a wealth of information on these fine carbs on their website. :cool:
 
Last edited:

Dizzy

GOLD Star
Joined
Feb 5, 2018
Messages
1,961
Location
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Those are the choke butterflys. The cable operates the plate at the bottom of the carb on the passenger side (primary throttle). If you can see fuel, either it is the incorrect pump, or the needle valve needs to be looked at to see if it is operating correctly. The electrical source operates the choke butterflys, and it is supposed to be completely closed when cold and after you depress the accelerator just once.
 

T3C

Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Tampa
Those are the choke butterflys. The cable operates the plate at the bottom of the carb on the passenger side (primary throttle). If you can see fuel, either it is the incorrect pump, or the needle valve needs to be looked at to see if it is operating correctly. The electrical source operates the choke butterflys, and it is supposed to be completely closed when cold and after you depress the accelerator just once.

Awesome—thank you both for clarifying!

I hooked up that fuel regulator (luckily my local O’Reily’s had that exact model in stock) to my fuel line yesterday and now it runs a little better, but RPMs still quite high.

I was able to pull the cane today and clean it up. (See images below.) I was able to easily run through the gears with a large flathead screwdriver, returned everything to Neutral, and then reinstalled the cane. Also, I dumped the transmission fluid (which looked like crude oil), and refilled with GL4 gear oil.

Going to attack the carb next. Does anyone know how to detach the choke from the carb in order to remove the entire carb off the block? I’ve been searching for videos, but I keep finding rebuild videos instead. Also, does anyone have any good recs for a rebuild kit? I’ve found a couple, but they all seem to contain different parts. Not sure what all I’ll need/not need.

E08EEB31-65DE-4C9B-9648-AAD6685895CE.jpeg
FDAAEB74-F9FE-4FF3-B82D-AF1E565C3895.jpeg
 

T3C

Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Tampa
Progress:

87492C89-886F-4730-BFF9-309C97001C58.jpeg


Got it off the studs just before my wife went into labor! Will probably be a few days before I can tackle dismantling.
 

flee

SILVER Star
Joined
May 27, 2020
Messages
189
Location
Chatsworth
Progress:

View attachment 2462641

Got it off the studs just before my wife went into labor! Will probably be a few days before I can tackle dismantling.
I recommend the video available on the PierceManifolds.com website. They have rebuild kits, too. (Edited version)
Good luck with the birth!
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom