I’ll posted last week that I had some work down by Ozark Outfitters (great guys). While checking over the motor, they sent these pics of the radiator. Wow, although I check the oil weekly, I’ve obviously neglected checking the coolant. A local mechanic addressed deleting coolant flow to the rear heater one year ago. Ozark thought maybe they used the wrong antifreeze or the mix wasn’t right. Anyway they thoroughly flushed the system including removing the radiator and cleaning it, changed all hoses and overflow bottle and used red antifreeze. I drove it 3.5 hous home at highway speeds and have driven it daily around town since. I just checked it. Radiator fluid looks good and oil level is still right on the full mark with no froth. Maybe I missed a bullet and will check the coolant weekly going forward. Any thoughts on the sludge? Hopefully not the beginnings of HG failure. Motor runs very strong, quiet and smooth. Here are the pics. They made me sick when I first saw them.
Embarrassed to show the pics
- Thread starter Herrett
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This is after the below work? I'd say it needs more flushing/cleaning
"Anyway they thoroughly flushed the system including removing the radiator and cleaning it, changed all hoses and overflow bottle and used red antifreeze."
"Anyway they thoroughly flushed the system including removing the radiator and cleaning it, changed all hoses and overflow bottle and used red antifreeze."
Hopefully that was before their work!
Regardless, to start, easy to do a combustion gas test on the rad to see if the coolant is getting contaminated. Fluid neglect/mixed coolant isn't "good," but better than a HG..
Regardless, to start, easy to do a combustion gas test on the rad to see if the coolant is getting contaminated. Fluid neglect/mixed coolant isn't "good," but better than a HG..
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So what's the issue
- Thread starter
- #6
No issue now, at least after only a week. Just wanted opinion from the forums on what they thought might be cause of sludge, incompatible antifreeze, water heavy mix causing rust or possible HG beginning to fail. Possibly this can’t be determined without a gas test. Just angling for experienced input.
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
I'd want the coolant to be fairly clear, but I use generic green. Maybe someone who uses red can chime in. Unless that is green, in which case you're definitely gonna want to flush that some more.
I have always used LLC (RED) and its clear enough to see the fins where the coolant passes through easily - ive never had any buildup of sludge / grime in the cooling system
Best to take the radiator out and have it flushed properly, my view is 'in car' flushes do not do anywhere near as good a job or disconnect the top & bottom hoses and run the garden hose through it as best as you can to clear the gunk from it - then do the same through the block
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks for the input. It is the Red Toyota type . They took the radiator out last week when they cleaned it but probably did'nt rod or boil it if those are the correct terms. So even with red, i should be able to see fins?
Don’t mix red and green. If switching from one to another, do a complete flush first.
You look good! Reservoir is an easier place to visually inspect coolant, l think. Any oil in coolant is very noticeable. Reservoir sits on a slide-on bracket. And there are cheap apparatus available to evaluate mix strength. A new cap to the same psi rating is good PM, to go with new hoses and flushed system. Did you have em put in a new thermostat while they had the hoses off? While yer muckin around you can wax yer truck, too! Fresh red inside, fresh red without.
- Thread starter
- #12
I'll have to check the work order on the thermostat but youre right, Would have been the time to do it. So if I'm reading you right, you think the antifreeze looks good after 3.5 hours driving 70MPH and a week of daily driving? I guess a failing head gasket wouldnt have stood up to 3.5 hours of 70 MPH driving without the LC over heating I hope thats true abd will certainly monitor and flush the coolant going forward.
Cause is probably mixing incompatible coolant types. I've done it, and all those sediments will settle somewhere, either on the inside of hoses, inside coolant galleries, inside the heater core, inside the radiator core.
I agree, it still needs more of a flush, and run the heater on full while it's being flushed to get the heater core as clear as possible.
I agree, it still needs more of a flush, and run the heater on full while it's being flushed to get the heater core as clear as possible.
I also agree with the comment on the radiator cap
These are often overlooked as a maintenance item, and they are critical to keeping your cooking system working at optimum.
Yours looks like you got your money's worth from it. Time for a fresh one
These are often overlooked as a maintenance item, and they are critical to keeping your cooking system working at optimum.
Yours looks like you got your money's worth from it. Time for a fresh one
It's drop the coolant, or water and some radiator flush in it and drive it for a week before dumping the water, flush with fresh water.
Then start fresh with coolant
Don't do this if you're somewhere there's a risk of freezing over night etc
Then start fresh with coolant
Don't do this if you're somewhere there's a risk of freezing over night etc
Yes. As comment above, you should be able to see the cores inside the radiator when you've got fresh coolant in it
Flush, flush, flush. (With heater on) I would go ahead and switch to green coolant. Replace radiator cap.
