- Thread starter
- #21
I do like the idea of these setups, but at this point I am just running 2 sets of lights. As I continue to go off the deep end I'm sure the build will evolve to a cleaner setup.
Electrical advice needed for AUX lighting (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mike NXP
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- Thread starter
- #22
mmm nice. I did already purchase a 8AWG with a 60AMP maxi fuse in line so I suppose I am stuck with crimping for now.
I use this type of fuse as well- right off the battery terminal. I’m not near the truck for a few days/ but I’ll post a pic of my blue sea fuse panel set up.
Fuse panel is vertically mounted to a Kydex backing plate which is mounted to some spare holes in the driver side fender.
- Thread starter
- #24
I want to take advantage of all the space I have where most people put the second battery. I'm going to try and find someone local to bend up a piece of metal that can take advantage of some existing threaded holes .
( Ignore wire rat nest, still a work in progress )
( Ignore wire rat nest, still a work in progress )
OP should have a charcoal canister right there since his 100 is a 2002.
Good point-
guess that explains the available mounting holes on my DS.
- Thread starter
- #28
I was wondering why you had all that space there...yeah my DS is a bit cluttered and since I'm not pulling many amps the longer 8AWG run should be OK. Also those darn wire light harness are so bulky so it will be nice to just tuck it all into the PS.Good point-
I just sent over some measurements to get a piece bent up for those available threaded M6 holes I have on my PS. I'll be bale to mount the fuse panel and some misc wiring / relays
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- Thread starter
- #29
Anyone have a lead on where to get a switch that would fit the rectangular blanks next to our steering wheel?
I also am thinking it would be nice to be able to reach this switch from the rear so when midnight bathroom breaks at camp happen I could flip the switch. There isn't really a good location for this without ghetto rigging it somewhere....which I may just do.
I also am thinking it would be nice to be able to reach this switch from the rear so when midnight bathroom breaks at camp happen I could flip the switch. There isn't really a good location for this without ghetto rigging it somewhere....which I may just do.
CH4X4 Industries
www.ch4x4.com
Fits like a glove. Custom switch shipped quick.
Or you can use a Toyota FJ light switch.
- Thread starter
- #31
CH4X4 Industries
Fits like a glove. Custom switch shipped quick.
View attachment 3004502
View attachment 3004504
Or you can use a Toyota FJ light switch.
CH4X4 Industries
Fits like a glove. Custom switch shipped quick.
View attachment 3004502
View attachment 3004504
Or you can use a Toyota FJ light switch.
Sweet ,thanks for sharing. For those looking for other options the company at the link below was recommended by slee and they sent me these options and said they will also fit our blanks
>>AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Toyota Push Switches - Switches - Products - https://www.aironboard.com/online/products/switches/toyota-push-switches.html?toyota_model=405
Im going to end up putting the switch for these roof lights in the blank above the cupholder in the middle row. I can reach out from the driver seat and since we have the back concerted to sleep in, it will be nice to reach down and flip the switch at camp when needed .
Riddle me this, at what point to people decide / is it necessary to add second battery? Is it more of a function of having power available when the vehicle is turned off or is there certain amp draw while running that may require some extra battery capacity ?
- Thread starter
- #32
Alright shes all dialed in for now. Spotlights on the front bumper and ditch lights are destined for the incoming roof rack .
I had someone bend me up this piece of metal , there are existing threads holes on the 02LC on the passenger side. Fit nice , plenty of room to stash wire harness below and room for future expansion.
Ignore the zip ties , still need to finalize .
I had someone bend me up this piece of metal , there are existing threads holes on the 02LC on the passenger side. Fit nice , plenty of room to stash wire harness below and room for future expansion.
Ignore the zip ties , still need to finalize .
You can skip the dual battery and related wiring and run a single deep cell AGM. If you want to spend a few $$ more - run a 90aH 27 series AGM: this about double aH of the stock battery- works as a starting battery and deep cell (won’t kill the cells if you run it low from time to time). Carry a jump pack as back up.
Preface that having an alternator booster will help charge this beast- (HKB Electonics)
X2Power Premium AGM 930CCA BCI Group 27 Car and Truck Battery - SLI27AGMDP
Discover the relentless power of the X2Power Group 27 premium AGM car and truck battery with a powerful 930 cold cranking amps. Only available at Batteries Plus.
www.batteriesplus.com
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- Thread starter
- #34
Woohoo , I think that's what I'm working with . It's 5 year old and has never missed a beat.You can skip the dual battery and related wiring and run a single deep cell AGM. If you want to spend a few $$ more - run a 90aH 27 series AGM: this about double aH of the stock battery- works as a starting battery and deep cell (won’t kill the cells if you run it low from time to time). Carry a jump pack as back up.
Preface that having an alternator booster will help charge this beast- (HKB Electonics)
X2Power Premium AGM 930CCA BCI Group 27 Car and Truck Battery - SLI27AGMDP
Discover the relentless power of the X2Power Group 27 premium AGM car and truck battery with a powerful 930 cold cranking amps. Only available at Batteries Plus.
>> What are you referring to when you say alternator booster ?
Just let the KC lights run for 20 minutes with truck off , it dropped to about 12.3 and then just stayed there for a while . More than enough time to accomplish midnight piss breaks at camp
Alternator Booster = Voltage Booster = Diode in the ALT-S (alternator voltage sensing) line. There are a few discussions about that here in the 100 series section. I built my own with a fuse, others simply remove the ALT-S fuse and install a $5 1amp GM AC diode in it's place. Its a wise thing to do if you have an AGM.
DIY
GM Diode
I installed a dual battery setup when I installed a fridge that runs all the time. Redundancy is a beautiful thing when you are in the middle of nowhere. You can find more details about my DIY/Hillbilly approach to the dual battery in my linked in my sig line.
DIY
GM Diode
I installed a dual battery setup when I installed a fridge that runs all the time. Redundancy is a beautiful thing when you are in the middle of nowhere. You can find more details about my DIY/Hillbilly approach to the dual battery in my linked in my sig line.
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For a large AGM you need constant 14v or greater to charge the battery or you should float charge the battery monthly.
HKB is an electronics privateer In Australia that makes the ALT-S fused diode- increases alternator output by roughly 0.6v ( it’s got a built in resettable fuse- it’s about $50. However they are temporarily closed thru August so DIY is the only option until then.
HKB is an electronics privateer In Australia that makes the ALT-S fused diode- increases alternator output by roughly 0.6v ( it’s got a built in resettable fuse- it’s about $50. However they are temporarily closed thru August so DIY is the only option until then.
- Thread starter
- #37
Roger that , thanks for the info . Dual battery setup at this point is not happening since I just took up all the space. I do plug my battery into a noco tender every week or so , and every night in the winter . It's held up fine over the years so I'll just ride out for now.
- Thread starter
- #38
I picked up a switch from the link below and it should fit into the blank next to the steering wheel.
>>AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Toyota Push Switches - Switches - Products - https://www.aironboard.com/online/products/switches/toyota-push-switches.html?toyota_model=405
>>AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Toyota Push Switches - Switches - Products - https://www.aironboard.com/online/products/switches/toyota-push-switches.html?toyota_model=405
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- Thread starter
- #39
Im trying to understand if I need to install a diode as depicted in the wire diagram for the switch .
Upon opening up the ARB switch I currently have installed, I see there is indeed a diode built into the switch.
Is this just to prevent power from surging back to the switch and burning It up ? Do I really need this , I don't know how to install diodes . Any advice is appreciated
I currently have it installed and all is working without the diode
Upon opening up the ARB switch I currently have installed, I see there is indeed a diode built into the switch.
Is this just to prevent power from surging back to the switch and burning It up ? Do I really need this , I don't know how to install diodes . Any advice is appreciated
I currently have it installed and all is working without the diode
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It is hard to answer without knowing exactly how your wiring is setup. The diode in that diagram is for a vehicle with a negative switched headlight (I believe the 100 is) trigger for the relay. In this case, the diode will prevent a path back to ground.
I believe you are manually switching the lights directly from the Blue Seas fuse box on the positive side and not trying to trigger the lights or prevent the light from coming on without the headlights. In that case, Relay pin 86 should go to your switch and Relay pin 85 should go to ground, which is the standard relay configuration. It sounds like you might have wired it like that since everything works and is now blowing fuses.
I use the standard positive switched relay configuration. It makes troubleshooting easier since most folks assume relays are positively switched.
