Electrical advice needed for AUX lighting

[Mike NXP]

It is hard to answer without knowing exactly how your wiring is setup. The diode in that diagram is for a vehicle with a negative switched headlight (I believe the 100 is) trigger for the relay. In this case, the diode will prevent a path back to ground.

I believe you are manually switching the lights directly from the Blue Seas fuse box on the positive side and not trying to trigger the lights or prevent the light from coming on without the headlights. In that case, Relay pin 86 should go to your switch and Relay pin 85 should go to ground, which is the standard relay configuration. It sounds like you might have wired it like that since everything works and is now blowing fuses.

I use the standard positive switched relay configuration. It makes troubleshooting easier since most folks assume relays are positively switched.

Appreciate it . I need to take some time to wrap my head around the relay in the ARB harness. Currently I'm hooked up without the diode and life is good. For now


Can I cash in another favor from the mud world ? I was tapping into a power source down by driver side interior fuse box an found this part tucked away but it seem like It should be clipped in .

Can someone pop their head under dash and see if they can find this denso black plastic box with blue and white wires so I can secure it.

 

[Mike NXP]

Bump to see if anyone knows where this little black Denso box should be clipped into under the dash. After looking up part number I believe this is my traction control buzzer.

 

[Mike NXP]

No luck on my end figuring out where this clips into so for now we'll let it dangle

 

[Mike NXP]

Bump to see if anyone knows where the speaker box with denso marking should be mounted.

Found underneath by driver side fuse panel. Suppose it's been hanging for this long it's fine but would be nice to have it all secured up without zipties.

 

[PharmerDan100]

Bump to see if anyone knows where the speaker box with denso marking should be mounted.

Found underneath by driver side fuse panel. Suppose it's been hanging for this long it's fine but would be nice to have it all secured up without zipties.

View attachment 3022074View attachment 3022076

I was scoping out underneath here last night since I'm planning to install some light pods/ditch lights... I think this is what your looking for:

 

[Mike NXP]

I was scoping out underneath here last night since I'm planning to install some light pods/ditch lights... I think this is what your looking for:

View attachment 3597832

Hmmm interesting, may be. I'll take a look tonight, thanks.

PS - Depending on your setup you may find coming in through the passenger side to be a bit easier.

 

[PharmerDan100]

Hmmm interesting, may be. I'll take a look tonight, thanks.

PS - Depending on your setup you may find coming in through the passenger side to be a bit easier.

Wait, really? I've been reading through the different firewall threads and it seems most are using the existing hole on the driver's side. Are there other pre-existing holes besides that one, or are you suggesting I may need to drill out a new hole on the passenger side?

 

[Mike NXP]

Wait, really? I've been reading through the different firewall threads and it seems most are using the existing hole on the driver's side. Are there other pre-existing holes besides that one, or are you suggesting I may need to drill out a new hole on the passenger side?

I didn't and wouldn't drill anything. Since it's an international vehicle you have the same setup for LHD so there is a nice big rubber grommet to go through.

I poked through it, ran my wire, and re-sealed with black RTV. I've since ran more wires through, I just pull the RTV , run em through and re-seal. There are certainly wires run through this so be careful either way.

If you look close, the rubber grommet has a nipple sticking out, maybe for throttle control cable? IDK anyway I started with that, snip it and send the wire though. You'll see it poke out under the glove box.


I have all of my AUX power mounted in the passenger side. So I run 6AWG cable from the battery to the fuse panel. I ground the fuse panel to the vehicle and then I run all accessory power ( just lights ) off of this setup. Switch wiring goes through that grommet on the passenger side. This setup is powered full time. I have the switch for my roof rack lights mounted on the backside of the center console so I can hit them while sleeping or driving.

Main spotlights are wired through the fog light switch for signal and then aftermarket switch to the left of the wheel for power. Let me know if you need assistance.

Wire taped to weed whacker line and fed through

 

[PharmerDan100]

I didn't and wouldn't drill anything. Since it's an international vehicle you have the same setup for LHD so there is a nice big rubber grommet to go through.

I poked through it, ran my wire, and re-sealed with black RTV. I've since ran more wires through, I just pull the RTV , run em through and re-seal. There are certainly wires run through this so be careful either way.

If you look close, the rubber grommet has a nipple sticking out, maybe for throttle control cable? IDK anyway I started with that, snip it and send the wire though. You'll see it poke out under the glove box.


I have all of my AUX power mounted in the passenger side. So I run 6AWG cable from the battery to the fuse panel. I ground the fuse panel to the vehicle and then I run all accessory power ( just lights ) off of this setup. Switch wiring goes through that grommet on the passenger side. This setup is powered full time. I have the switch for my roof rack lights mounted on the backside of the center console so I can hit them while sleeping or driving.

Main spotlights are wired through the fog light switch for signal and then aftermarket switch to the left of the wheel for power. Let me know if you need assistance.


View attachment 3597884


Wire taped to weed whacker line and fed through
View attachment 3597885

Ohhh ok, awesome! This is helpful. This project is getting a bit more involved than I initially anticipated... but I wanted to take a stab at DIYing it instead of having a shop do it.

My plan at the moment is to do something similar to this (couldn't find a Land Cruiser specific vid):
[04:53 - harness wiring]


This is a harness wiring diagram I found from Diode Dynamics. Still undecided on which LED pods to go with (might start a separate thread for that)

Then use this switch...

pt29735070as - Auxiliary Lights Switch - Sparks Parts

Auxiliary Lights Switch - pt29735070as. Genuine Toyota® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door.

www.sparksparts.com

...and connect it to the harness as shown in this video


I'm skipping the fuse panel step you have in your setup - would you advise against this?

Definitely going to need help when I start this project, so I'll be checking in here for guidance once I get started. Thanks in advance!

 

[Mike NXP]

I agree, I was a bit overwhelmed at first but you'll figure it out quickly.

Fuses - Well the panel isn't necessary but somewhere along your line you should add a fuse. I have the panel to protect from any shorts between light and panel. It also provides an easy solution for future install of more accessories if needed....Then I have a larger 60amp fuse right before the battery incase the power cable running to the panel shorts.
>> Are you just planning to run power right from the battery?

Some lights come with wire harness all ready to go, and if it's sold separately I'd suggest buying one. My ARB spotlights and KC rooflights both came with a harness that made my lift easier.

The wire diagram setup you are showing above is sort of confusing. You also may not need to involve a relay for lower power lights, like roof lights. For higher power circuits you may not want to have it hot all the time, so that's when you involve the fog light switch and a relay so the circuit is dead until you switch your fog lights. That's how I have my ARB lights setup. Dead all the time until I roll the fog light switch.



My biased advice on light brands is to go with KC. Great warranty, built tough, and not priced too high. Amazon special will burn out sooner than later but the overpriced stuff just isn't necessary. Find a good brand name with solid warranty.


60amp fuse right before the battery, if you decide to run power cable to fuse panel. Protect and insulate the cables from any areas that may rub.

 

[PharmerDan100]

I agree, I was a bit overwhelmed at first but you'll figure it out quickly.

Fuses - Well the panel isn't necessary but somewhere along your line you should add a fuse. I have the panel to protect from any shorts between light and panel. It also provides an easy solution for future install of more accessories if needed....Then I have a larger 60amp fuse right before the battery incase the power cable running to the panel shorts.
>> Are you just planning to run power right from the battery?

Some lights come with wire harness all ready to go, and if it's sold separately I'd suggest buying one. My ARB spotlights and KC rooflights both came with a harness that made my lift easier.

The wire diagram setup you are showing above is sort of confusing. You also may not need to involve a relay for lower power lights, like roof lights. For higher power circuits you may not want to have it hot all the time, so that's when you involve the fog light switch and a relay so the circuit is dead until you switch your fog lights. That's how I have my ARB lights setup. Dead all the time until I roll the fog light switch.



My biased advice on light brands is to go with KC. Great warranty, built tough, and not priced too high. Amazon special will burn out sooner than later but the overpriced stuff just isn't necessary. Find a good brand name with solid warranty.


60amp fuse right before the battery, if you decide to run power cable to fuse panel. Protect and insulate the cables from any areas that may rub.
View attachment 3598021

Yeah, I was planning to just wire the harness directly to the battery like in that 4runner vid.
Might go with this harness that has a fuse already wired in:

Offroad: 2-Pod Power Harness

Morimoto 2-Pod Power Harnesses include sealed relays, deutsch outputs, 16 gauge wiring, and enough length to get the job done. Morimoto Lighting

www.morimotohid.com

Ideally I would want to have a switch since I don't plan on running the ditch lights at all times. Last weekend I was doing some night driving off-road in Death Valley looking for potential camp spots and kept having to stop to shine my flashlight out the window to see if an area was suitable. Hoping that installing ditch lights angled slightly outward will help so I don't have to do this stop and flash technique anymore.

 

[Mike NXP]

Yeah, I was planning to just wire the harness directly to the battery like in that 4runner vid.
Might go with this harness that has a fuse already wired in:
View attachment 3598035

Offroad: 2-Pod Power Harness

Morimoto 2-Pod Power Harnesses include sealed relays, deutsch outputs, 16 gauge wiring, and enough length to get the job done. Morimoto Lighting

www.morimotohid.com

Ideally I would want to have a switch since I don't plan on running the ditch lights at all times. Last weekend I was doing some night driving off-road in Death Valley looking for potential camp spots and kept having to stop to shine my flashlight out the window to see if an area was suitable. Hoping that installing ditch lights angled slightly outward will help so I don't have to do this stop and flash technique anymore.

I hear that, adding lights on my roof helped with camp spotting for sure.

That harness looks like a good option, it does appear to have a switch on the right side of the diagram. That's the wire you would run through the firewall into the cab.

I would think the lights you buy will come with a harness so you shouldn't have to source one. I use these lights here for my reverse / flood style lights. They make spot versions as well for more range. But you'll see they come with the wire harness and switch... The switch is hot all the time but obviously can be turned off when not in use. If you wanted it to be controlled by a fog light switch or something you would need to tap a signal wire into the fog light harness and involve a relay in the mix.

 

[Mike NXP]

If you want to hit the easy button here, and you rig isn't a full time camper / off roader , you do have some other options.

Back in high school we used to love strapping this thing on the roof and spotlighting s***. It's extremely bright, magnetic, and remote controller for a 360 degree spin. Made by Larsen electronics. They have expensive LED version too.


Another easy way out, I ran these for a while. Got a 12v 2-to-1 extension cord, ran it through the window or sunroof, and flipped the switch when needed. Magnetic was strong and it worked just fine. This was in my earlier stubborn days when I said, to hell with installing all these fancy lights

Eventually you will get tired of that and want to install something full time but just wanted to throw out some other options. Those smaller magnetic 12v lights are actually pretty damn bright

 

[PharmerDan100]

Cool, thanks for sharing! These are definitely easier and more affordable options. I'm gonna go take a peak under the hood later today after work and see how much work I feel like doing over the next week or so. I'll post my progress here once I hone in on the final setup.