Elate Supercharger Install non VVTI

[Patassa]

Just wrapping this up, a few loose end left but she's running and functional again.
I bought the 2UZ kit from Elate, it took about 3 months to come in but was well worth the wait. Link to the current kit, you can also add the crossover water pipe which is modifed already to avoid welding aluminum if you're not set up for it or don't want to deal with finding someone who can do it for you.

https://elatemfg.com/product/elate-uzj200-landcruiser-fdfi1900-intercooled-supercharger-kit/

1st step is remove intake manifold. Lots of hoses need to come off, throttle body, air intake, etc. If you want this to be cleaner, drain the coolant first.

Next you can install the new water crossover pipe, but you're likely to have a clean up job on the intake ports and the V bank, mine were pretty gunky.

Ports after some cleaning.

To be continued.....

 

[Patassa]

Below is after some clean up and water crossover installed. To clean everything up, I turned the crank by hand and used the valve seals to hold the solvent and let it soak, scrubbed then vacuumed out the gunk, I did this 2-3 times per port until they were spotless. Be careful to not let anything leak or drop below the valves, go slow, take your time.

Now you move on to the second page of instructions about installing the manifold. Need to add your vacuum/boost port and hose for your boost sensor and now's the time to run an Intake air temperature sensor. I had alittle fitment issue with the IAT sensor hitting the starter, I just trimmed the sensor connector housing and it worked fine.

Next you need to remove the head studs, no longer needed, clean up the gasket surfaces and put a couple of new oem gaskets on top. Also the plastic wiring harness in the back of the engine bay will interfere with the 90's coming out of the new manifold, I just made a couple of little spacers to solve that.

 

[Patassa]

Next you are ready to install the new manifold. Once you have the manifold bolted down, you just add your injectors and fuel rails, I bent the crossover fuel rail down to clear everything. Factory fuel pressure regulator was removed, bc I'm installing a rising rate regulator, so you'll see the convertor fitting in the fuel rail.

Now you're done with 2nd page, on to page 3, the intercooler system. The pump is supposed to be installed in the lowest part of the system. To achieve this I pulled the bumper off and welded a bracket just below the heat exchanger inlet nozzle.

 

[Patassa]

Next you're ready to mount the heat exchanger and the resevoir bottle, both come with brackets you can work with. You can see the pump below the bottom nozzle of the exchanger, that's the recommended install. The crossmember running in this space needs to be trimmed alot or removed. I was able to retain it, just trimmed alot. I used the included brackets, put them in a vice and bend them to my geometry. I used mig wire for the templates for this.

I used some rivnuts in the fire wall to mount the resevoir bottle. The nozzles on the bottle are "backwards" if you run your hoses on this side of the engine bay, but there's almost no where to run them on the other side. This results in longer hose runs to get the sweeping curves without pinching the hoses. Then run all the hoses.

Now fill the system with coolant, run the power loom, and bleed the air out of the system and cycle the pump for a while.

To be continued later tonight....

 

[Patassa]

Now its time to install the blower. I had one small fitmen issue, but a little grinding took care of it. You can see the fitment issue on the front corner of the blower and the fuel rail. No big deal, dremel took care of it quickly.


Then bolt on the blower. Then bolt the throttle body to the blower adapter with some gasket maker/ sealant.

Next you have to deal with the 1.5" drop over 4" for the air pipe. I think long term I'll probably make a custom air pipe OR custom air box. We'll see. but for now I just cobbled together a section of aluminum pipe with some silicon hump couplers. I was able to get the three air ports at OEM size in the aluminum section of the pipe. 1 for the pcv, 1 for the power steering pump, 1 for the evap system. New hoses bought for all of this.

 

[Patassa]

Next you need to run a line from the outlet side of the PCV to the blower body inlet port, another line from the power steering pump to the other blower body port for vacuum. I decided to maintain the coolant lines to the throttle body. The vacuum port in the manifold needs to be run to a vacuum manifold which I mounted on the firewall, also installed the boost sensor there.

I welded up a small bracket to hold the new fuel pressure regulator, which gets vacuum from the vacuum manifold, fed from the manifold port. I utilized the engine lifting hooks for this bracket and another bracket to hold the evap valve and piping.

Also the three plugs around the throttle body needs to be extended. Tedious if you do it right but no other choice.

 

[Patassa]

Next throttle cable, using the mount Elate supplied, is just long enough to work. I had to snip the cable an inche or so shorter and add a little solderless cable nipple. Then good to go.

To monitor wideband lambda, you'll have to weld a bung on before the cat.

Not the best weld, but it'll hold and my readings appear accurate.

 

[Patassa]

Install new idler pulley from elate, check all level, check all hoses, then crank her up. I went with the Zeitronix lcd to monitor lambda, AIT, boost, and it shows EGT by default but I haven't installed that sensor yet.

Unfortunatly I had to mix regular with premium so at the top end of my boost, during a heat wave, lambda went too rich. Think it will likely be just fine once I get a tank of premium and it's not 100F outside.

 

[Patassa]

I spent about 3 weeks installing this in my garage, working a few hours in the evenings and all day on the weekends. It's alot of work making brackets, routing new hoses, routing new wires, etc. My running joke was every step was 2-3 problems to solve. But doable if you like solving problems. Get a digital caliper to measure your old hoses or old ports to make sure you order the right stuff the first time, I have a big box of amazon returns after guessing wrong many times before taking good measurements. I spent alot of time on material selection for the hose types, make sure you get the right hose for the right process stream. The last thing I wanted to do was drive my reliability down.


It pulls like a mule already and looks like I can easily make the 7psi of boost promised from Elate once I get the right gas in there. 10/10 would do again, but it's a big investment of both money and time, but I love this truck, needed more power in the mountains with all my camping gear, and didn't want to start over with a 200 series.

Happy to help with any questions as people get into this, I think I might be the first/only non-VVIT install on the forum right now.

 

[frawstme]

following, and dang nice write up

Ever since i bought my lc i've really wanted to do this in my garage as i've done everything else, it's disheartening to learn that it requires welding. Welding just isn't something that i have experience or something that i'm ready to to invest in unfortunately. Simply don't have the space for that and don't want to invest in a welder for one time use. will have to figure out a way around it

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

Damn you don't really realize how big the throttle body is.

 

[Patassa]

following, and dang nice write up

Ever since i bought my lc i've really wanted to do this in my garage as i've done everything else, it's disheartening to learn that it requires welding. Welding just isn't something that i have experience or something that i'm ready to to invest in unfortunately. Simply don't have the space for that and don't want to invest in a welder for one time use. will have to figure out a way around it

I was in the same boat, had only welded a few times 20 years ago. However, I didn't realize you could buy a $100 mig welder off of amazon, use flux core wire with no bottles/no gas, no complications, just get a welding helmet and make these welds with almost no practice. The welder is the size of a large shoe box, for $100, it's a no brainer. Don't let that stop you!

 

[ChroniclerCruiser]

I was in the same boat, had only welded a few times 20 years ago. However, I didn't realize you could buy a $100 mig welder off of amazon, use flux core wire with no bottles/no gas, no complications, just get a welding helmet and make these welds with almost no practice. The welder is the size of a large shoe box, for $100, it's a no brainer. Don't let that stop you!

View attachment 4198989

Now you have me thinking of the weld-on bumper kits Coastal Off-Road makes. Great write-up! Bookmarking this one for 5+ years from now when I have the budget for this lol