Elate Supercharger Install non VVTI

[Patassa]

Just wrapping this up, a few loose end left but she's running and functional again.
I bought the 2UZ kit from Elate, it took about 3 months to come in but was well worth the wait. Link to the current kit, you can also add the crossover water pipe which is modifed already to avoid welding aluminum if you're not set up for it or don't want to deal with finding someone who can do it for you.

ELATE UZJ200 2UZ LAND CRUISER FDFI1900 INTERCOOLED SUPERCHARGER KIT - ELATE MFG. - PERFORMANCE SUPERCHARGER SYSTEMS

Looking at supercharging your 2UZ-FE powered vehicle but not sold on using an used OEM unit or perhaps you are looking for a new, more efficient charger produced by a company that knows exactly how a charger should be built? If so then we have you covered! ELATE is now able to offer a bolt on...

elatemfg.com

1st step is remove intake manifold. Lots of hoses need to come off, throttle body, air intake, etc. If you want this to be cleaner, drain the coolant first.

Next you can install the new water crossover pipe, but you're likely to have a clean up job on the intake ports and the V bank, mine were pretty gunky.

Ports after some cleaning.

To be continued.....

 

[Patassa]

Below is after more clean up and the water crossover installed with new gaskets. To clean everything up, I turned the crank by hand and used the valve seals to hold the solvent and let it soak, scrubbed with brass wirebrush then vacuumed out the gunk with a shop vac. I did this 2-3 times per port until they were spotless. Be careful to not let anything leak or drop below the valves, go slowly, take your time. I spent a whole afternoon on this.

Now you move on to the second page of instructions about installing the manifold. Need to add your vacuum/boost port and hose for your boost sensor and now's the time to run an Intake air temperature sensor. I had alittle fitment issue with the IAT sensor hitting the starter, I just trimmed the sensor connector housing and it worked fine.

Next you need to remove the head studs, no longer needed, clean up the gasket surfaces and put a couple of new oem gaskets on top. Also the plastic wiring harness in the back of the engine bay will interfere with the 90's coming out of the new manifold, I just made a couple of little spacers to solve that.

 

[Patassa]

Next you are ready to install the new manifold. Once you have the manifold bolted down, you just add your injectors and fuel rails, I bent the crossover fuel rail pipe down to clear the blower, instead of using the hose adaptor elate sent. Factory fuel pressure regulator was removed, bc I'm installing a rising rate regulator, so you'll see the convertor fitting in the fuel rail.
I kept the fuel pulsation damper on the fuel rail. Now is the time to replace the line from the damper to the fuel filter. The added fuel pressure will really test the O-rings of this line at the filter fitting if it's old, ask me how I know.

Now you're done with 2nd page, on to page 3, the intercooler system. The pump is supposed to be installed in the lowest part of the system. Centrifugal pumps suck at sucking, so to give it the most amount of head, put it as low as possible and your reservoir as high as possible. To achieve this I pulled the bumper off and welded a bracket just below the heat exchanger inlet nozzle.

 

[Patassa]

Next you're ready to mount the heat exchanger and the resevoir bottle, both come with brackets you can work with. You can see the pump below the bottom nozzle of the exchanger, that's the recommended install. The crossmember running in this space needs to be trimmed alot or removed. I was able to retain it, just trimmed alot. I used the included brackets, put them in a vice and bend them to my geometry. I used mig wire for the templates for this.

I used some rivnuts in the fire wall to mount the resevoir bottle. The nozzles on the bottle are "backwards" if you run your hoses on this side of the engine bay, but there's almost no where to run them on the other side. This results in longer hose runs to get sweeping curves to avoid pinching the hoses. The head loss of a pinched hose greatly outweighs the head loss of a few extra total feet of hose. Trying to run the hoses too tightly and keep it super clean will pinch them, alternatively you could use some 90 fittings, which I didn't have but may eventually come back with.

Then run all the hoses. Lower outlet bottle nozzle --> pump inlet --> pump outlet to lower HX nozzle --> upper HX nozzle to intake manifold --> intake manifold to upper bottle nozzle.

Now fill the system with coolant, run the power loom, and bleed the air out of the system. Then cycle the pump for a while, checking for leaks.

 

[Patassa]

Now its time to install the blower. I had one small fitmen issue, but a little grinding with the dremel took care of it. You can see the fitment issue on the front corner of the blower and the fuel rail.


Then bolt on the blower. The new blower has a gasket on the bottom of it, so torque to spec and you're good.

Then bolt the throttle body to the blower adapter with some gasket maker/ sealant.

Next you have to deal with the 1.5" drop over 4" for the air pipe. I think long term I'll probably make a custom air pipe OR custom air box. We'll see. but for now I just cobbled together a section of aluminum pipe with some silicon hump couplers. I was able to get the three air ports at OEM size in the aluminum section of the pipe. 1 for the pcv, 1 for the power steering pump, 1 for the evap system. New hoses bought for all of this.

 

[Patassa]

Next you can to run a line from the outlet side of the PCV to the blower body inlet port, another line from the power steering pump to the throttle body port for vacuum, and a line for the evap system to the blower body port for vacuum.

There are options here. Basically the throttlebody and the supercharge body ports give you 3 vacuum ports to utilize, it's up to you how you want to route things. But you're downstream of throttlebody at all three ports, so you're no longer in the atm fresh air space, but you're upstream of the rotors so you're not in boost pressure regime either.

Very soon I'll be adding a catch can to route my pcv valve through to keep from sending that mist into the blower.


I decided to maintain the coolant lines to the throttle body. Most people don't from what I've gathered, but it was easy and keeps things closer to stock functionality so I included them.

The vacuum port hose in the intake manifold manifold needs to be run to a vacuum manifold which I mounted on the firewall using rivnuts and some aluminum brackets, also installed the boost sensor there.


The IAT, boost, and new wideband sensor wires were all run through the firewall after drilling a hole near the brake system components.

I welded up a small bracket to hold the new fuel pressure regulator, which gets vacuum from the vacuum manifold, fed from the intake manifold port. The bottom of the regulator goes to the fuel return line back to tank, and the last line (the inlet line) runs to the converter fitting on the fuel rail that I mentioned earlier. This line sets your rail pressure. Don't mix these two lines up.

I utilized the engine lifting hooks for the bracket to hold the FPR and the other lifting hook on the driver's side to bolt the bracket to to hold the evap valve and piping.

Also the three cables that plug into the throttle body need to be extended. Tedious if you do it right but no other choice. I used copper butt connectors/couplers with a ratcheting wire crimper, shrink wrap insulators, then tesa tape and loom protector. All three of these plug housings cracked snapple popped on me, I have replacements coming soon.

 

[Patassa]

Next the throttle cable housing is JUST long enough to work, while the throttle cable itself is a little too long. I had to snip the cable an inche or so shorter and add a little solderless cable nipple. Elate supplies a nice bracket for the throttle cable that mounts to the throttle body, simple elegant solution.

To monitor wideband lambda, you'll have to weld a bung on before the cat and install a new O2 sensor.

You could also try a clamp on kit, apparently people have success with those as well and that would eliminate this part which admittedly can be a barrier for your average diy'er. I will probably go this route for the EGT (exhaust gas temperature) probe bc I don't want to remove the exahust gas manifold but would like a reading.

Not the prettiest weld, but it'll hold and my readings appear accurate.

 

[Patassa]

Install new idler pulley from elate, check all levels, check all hoses to make sure the routing makes sense, then crank her up.

I had to buy a shorter serpentine belt than the one supplied by Elate, I went with a gates belt. Micro V 104.5 inch vs. the 105.9 inch belt in the kit. After a week, this belt started chirping, it was also too long. Next I'm moving to a 103.7 effective length.

My AEM regulator says it was set at 40 psi from the factory, imagine my surprise when I cranked it up and it was running like hell for a few seconds, realizing the regulator was set around 15 psi. I quickly boosted the pressure then she started purring again.

When you set the regulator, you must remove the vacuum hose that should be running from your vacuum manifold to the vacuum port on the regulator. Plug the vacuum line from the vacuum manifold, leave the regulator vacuum nipple open to atm. Set it at 43 psi, per elate. Then plug the vacuum line back onto the vacuum port of the regulator, pressure guage should drop about 11 psi. Good to go.

I installed a new OEM fuel pump in the tank because my old one had 420,000 miles on it and figured it was time.


I went with the Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband and lcd kit to monitor lambda, AIT, boost, and it shows EGT by default but I haven't installed that sensor yet.

Unfortunatly I had to mix regular with premium, also I didn't calibrate my FPR correctly, so at the top end of my boost, during a heat wave, lambda went too rich. I've dialed in my FPR and will do another pull when I burn off this tank of gas.

 

[Patassa]

I spent about 3 weeks installing this in my garage, working a few hours in the evenings and all day on the weekends. It's alot of work making brackets, routing new hoses, routing new wires, etc. My running joke was every step was 2-3 problems to solve. But doable if you like solving problems. Get a digital caliper to measure your old hoses or old ports to make sure you order the right stuff the first time, I have a big box of amazon returns after guessing wrong many times before taking good measurements. I spent alot of time on material selection for the hose types, make sure you get the right hose for the right process stream. The last thing I wanted to do was drive my reliability down.


It pulls like a mule already and looks like I can easily make the 7psi of boost promised from Elate once I get the right gas in there. 10/10 would do again, but it's a big investment of both money and time.

I love this truck, needed more power in the mountains with all my camping gear, and didn't want to start over with a 200 series.

Happy to help with any questions as people get into this.

 

[frawstme]

following, and dang nice write up

Ever since i bought my lc i've really wanted to do this in my garage as i've done everything else, it's disheartening to learn that it requires welding. Welding just isn't something that i have experience or something that i'm ready to to invest in unfortunately. Simply don't have the space for that and don't want to invest in a welder for one time use. will have to figure out a way around it

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

Damn you don't really realize how big the throttle body is.

 

[Patassa]

following, and dang nice write up

Ever since i bought my lc i've really wanted to do this in my garage as i've done everything else, it's disheartening to learn that it requires welding. Welding just isn't something that i have experience or something that i'm ready to to invest in unfortunately. Simply don't have the space for that and don't want to invest in a welder for one time use. will have to figure out a way around it

I was in the same boat, had only welded a few times 20 years ago. However, I didn't realize you could buy a $100 mig welder off of amazon, use flux core wire with no bottles/no gas, no complications, just get a welding helmet and make these welds with almost no practice. The welder is the size of a large shoe box, for $100, it's a no brainer.
And it plugs into the wall socket, 110/120V, 20-30 amp breaker is more than enough.

Don't let that stop you!

 

[ChroniclerCruiser]

I was in the same boat, had only welded a few times 20 years ago. However, I didn't realize you could buy a $100 mig welder off of amazon, use flux core wire with no bottles/no gas, no complications, just get a welding helmet and make these welds with almost no practice. The welder is the size of a large shoe box, for $100, it's a no brainer. Don't let that stop you!

View attachment 4198989

Now you have me thinking of the weld-on bumper kits Coastal Off-Road makes. Great write-up! Bookmarking this one for 5+ years from now when I have the budget for this lol

 

[David310]

Great job! Did you go with the AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator kit from Elate as well? Interested to see how much boost you see with the 75mm at your lower elevation in Louisiana. Should see at least 7 I would assume.

 

[Patassa]

Great job! Did you go with the AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator kit from Elate as well? Interested to see how much boost you see with the 75mm at your lower elevation in Louisiana. Should see at least 7 I would assume.

I went with the same AEM regulator, just bought it stateside.

I hit 6.2 psi at the red light yesterday before my knock sensor kicked in. My fault for starting the project with half a tank of regular gas, I mixed it with half a tank of premium so my octane is still too low. Should hit 7 no problem. Especially once it's not 100 outside.

 

[Miloslavich]

this is so tempting.....

thanks for the detailed write up.

anything that you'd do differently if you were to do it again?

how do you like the driveability now? are you stoked with the blower?

 

[Patassa]

this is so tempting.....

thanks for the detailed write up.

anything that you'd do differently if you were to do it again?

how do you like the driveability now? are you stoked with the blower?

The only thing that would have helped me was understanding the air vs. vacuum needs of various systems and ordering all the hoses and fittings for that in the correct sizes ahead of time. Also the air intake misalignment is a challenge that I didn't fully appreciate until it was battling it for 3 days to make something work. Waiting on amazon slowed me down a couple of times. You need to have a plan for monitoring lambda, boost, and air intake temperatures so you have to pick a system and none of them are cheap.

It's FUN to drive now, and my landcruiser has never been fun to drive. The sound of the blower will put a smile on your face. It was way cheaper than buying a 200 series and starting over, plus i've always thought it was the perfect size for my family and our overlanding trips and love the looks of it, it just needed more power. I couldn't be happier doubling down on my 420,000 mile landcruiser.

 

[Miloslavich]

The only thing that would have helped me was understanding the air vs. vacuum needs of various systems and ordering all the hoses and fittings for that in the correct sizes ahead of time. Also the air intake misalignment is a challenge that I didn't fully appreciate until it was battling it for 3 days to make something work. Waiting on amazon slowed me down a couple of times. You need to have a plan for monitoring lambda, boost, and air intake temperatures so you have to pick a system and none of them are cheap.

It's FUN to drive now, and my landcruiser has never been fun to drive. The sound of the blower will put a smile on your face. It was way cheaper than buying a 200 series and starting over, plus i've always thought it was the perfect size for my family and our overlanding trips and love the looks of it, it just needed more power. I couldn't be happier doubling down on my 420,000 mile landcruiser.

420,000 on the original block/pistons/rings? Will be fun to see how long she holds up for

 

[Patassa]

420,000 on the original block/pistons/rings? Will be fun to see how long she holds up for

It's a 2UV, of course it's the original block/pistons/rings.

Other early adopters on this forum have over 50k miles (I'd have to go check the exact amount) with this kit and no issues so far, near my mileage if I recall. Not sure if you're more experienced driving one of these while supercharged, but I spend very little time to no time in boost just running my normal driving errands around town. So it''s really only a small fraction of the time I'm driving that I'm putting any additional stress on the components.

 

[adventurezoutside]

420,000 on the original block/pistons/rings? Will be fun to see how long she holds up for

ran a tundra with a TRD supercharger for 300k and literally drove it like a rental car, That truck is still on the road with probably 450K on it. its only like 6psi of boost.