E-Brake Drum Getting Very Hot

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I tried the search function and didn't see an answer directly on point. After an extended drive, I noticed a burning-like smell. The only thing out of the ordinary that I could find was the e-brake drum was extremely hot and had a slight amount of smoke coming off of it. (Yes the e-brake had been off). I went through the FSM adjustment procedure and that part seemed okay. But I did encounter an issue: With the rear of the vehicle jacked up and on jackstands, transmission in neutral, I cannot turn the drive shaft by hand at all. Is that normal? Also, when I spin the back wheels by hand, the drive shaft does not move. Normal or is that indicative of a larger problem? By the way, it seems that the vehicle drives just fine. I did replace the front nose cone recently, so I'm not sure if that could have possibly made something out of whack at the rear.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Mark.
 

middlecalf

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One of the rear wheels needs to be chocked when spinning the other one for the driveshaft to spin. Has to do with open diff.

I bet your dragging a shoe in your e-brake drum, that’s why it’s getting very hot. A little bit of drag is ok, but if you’re smoking that’s too much.
 

pb4ugo

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I tried the search function and didn't see an answer directly on point. After an extended drive, I noticed a burning-like smell. The only thing out of the ordinary that I could find was the e-brake drum was extremely hot and had a slight amount of smoke coming off of it. (Yes the e-brake had been off). I went through the FSM adjustment procedure and that part seemed okay. But I did encounter an issue: With the rear of the vehicle jacked up and on jackstands, transmission in neutral, I cannot turn the drive shaft by hand at all. Is that normal? Also, when I spin the back wheels by hand, the drive shaft does not move. Normal or is that indicative of a larger problem? By the way, it seems that the vehicle drives just fine. I did replace the front nose cone recently, so I'm not sure if that could have possibly made something out of whack at the rear.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Mark.
Are you running a lift? We're the jackstands under the axle or under the frame? If you have a lift and your suspension was at full droop your u joints could be binding on the yokes and not allowing the d/s to spin. If that's the case, it needs to be corrected. Or you have issues with the smoking e brake.
 
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Jun 25, 2016
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Raleigh, NC
Have you replaced the e-brake shoes with aftermarket? I had the same issue, and found the root cause to be the spring on the end of the park brake cable pushing the outboard shoe towards the drum, regardless of how loose it was adjusted (the shoe hit the drum before the adjuster made contact with the edge of the hole in the backing plate). This dragging heated up my drum just like you're experiencing.

I pulled off the shoes and used a round file to deepen the groove that the adjuster rides in (had to go 2-3mm deeper). Now the adjuster hits the edge of the backing plate hole before the shoe contacts the drum. Easy fix....

For reference, my shoes were from SOR.....I've read elsewhere that the mounting ears on them are a bit thicker than OEM.
 
Joined
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The odd thing is the E-brake had been working just fine with no issues. I hadn't touched it but just noticed the burning-like smell. If anything, I would think that over time, the pads would become slightly looser, not tighter to the drum? Sooo, I was wondering if there is something else possibly going on. I re-did the adjustment procedure yesterday according to the FSM, but I've not had a chance to take her out for an extended drive to see if that fixed issue .
Thanks.
 
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If on your test drive since adjustment you find it still rubs, then adjust 1 more loose and check, if it persists then I would say something has fouled/broken and you should remove to check. I had it once where the shoes would just grab and chatter sometimes, 1 cilck was plenty to make them clear. Point is that 1 or 2 clicks should clear the issue ( 1 IMO ) - Does it do it in reverse ? If the answer is No- that would indicate to me that you are close and 1 click would def. do it unless there are issues inside.
 
Joined
May 9, 2021
Messages
896
Location
Texas Coast
If on your test drive since adjustment you find it still rubs, then adjust 1 more loose and check, if it persists then I would say something has fouled/broken and you should remove to check. I had it once where the shoes would just grab and chatter sometimes, 1 cilck was plenty to make them clear. Point is that 1 or 2 clicks should clear the issue ( 1 IMO ) - Does it do it in reverse ? If the answer is No- that would indicate to me that you are close and 1 click would def. do it unless there are issues inside.
Thanks! I'll give it a try this afternoon and post back with the results.
 

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