Dual Battery Install - BostonMangler Setup (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 17, 2005
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449
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Location
Forest Falls, CA
Website
www.adventureduo.com
First off, i want to thank Kevin for helping me with a simple/reliable yet effective way of doing the dual batteries. Using slee's bottle relocation kit, Toyota's battery tray parts, and 12volt guys stud bus, along with Kevins diagram.

Well is 99% done, just need to install 2 breakers and run the wire loom and cover the post up (ran out of daylight). Some of cables look tight in the pics, but they're not.

dualbatt1by2.jpg


dualbatt2jj4.jpg


We fabbed a bracket that holds the stud and the fuse block from Blue Seas.

dualbattsfuseblockqp7.jpg


Talk about a long day.
 
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sorry to bring this back from the dead, Dave, does the 93 have the silencer can on the side of the air cleaner assembly like my 94?

been searching for a photo, can't find them anymore in the FAQ's.

Do I need to buy a new hose or will the one to the silencer just fit if I rotate it?
Do guys with a 94 cut the silencer bracket off? Would a lid from a 92 fit my 94?

thx.
 
sorry to bring this back from the dead, Dave, does the 93 have the silencer can on the side of the air cleaner assembly like my 94?

been searching for a photo, can't find them anymore in the FAQ's.

Do I need to buy a new hose or will the one to the silencer just fit if I rotate it?
Do guys with a 94 cut the silencer bracket off? Would a lid from a 92 fit my 94?

thx.

Pablo - I can take a pic or two of my '94 and post them for you.

Yes, you have to cut off the resonator box for the 2nd battery box to fit. No biggie as it's just there to resonate the damn exhaust. It's an empty box! I reused the existing hoses. IIRC I had to cut a piece of the smaller one to allow the larger one to fit over the smaller side.
 
Pablo,

I just installed the second tray on Sunday, ill take some pics later today if you want.

You have to get rid of the silencer box just like Brent said. I grinded away the bracket and hit it with some outdoor spray paint.

I couldnt use the existing hose because the sizes didnt match. The side that goes onto the airbox was a very loose fit for me, even with a clamp it wasnt going to seal it properly.

I bought a new pre-bent radiator hose from pep boys and it worked out perfectly. I can try to get you the part number of the hose if you want.


Harry
 
Search in FAQ - NAPA also has a hose that'll work too. Part number is posted somewhere on this board.
 
By the way, since i did this install i've finished cleaning up the cabling and adding wire loom to protect it. Also, i've replaced those cheesy wing nut terminals with National luna terminals. A solar controller was also installed. Lastly, i've replaced both batteries with Diehard Platinums.
 
Pablo,

Here are three pics for you of the OEM hose I reused. You can see in the first pic where the hose fits to the air cleaner housing where I used the smaller hose from the resonator box inside the larger hose that came out of the resonator to the engine. Works just fine. Last pic shows the resonator mount cut off - I just used a dremel and cut off wheel.
Trailer pics 010a.JPG
Trailer pics 011a.JPG
Trailer pics 012a.JPG
 
awesome, exactly what I needed to find out.

Thanks guys.
 
That's what we're all here for Pablo. Happy to help my friend.
 
How has this been working for you over the years?? Like the simplicity of this and would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks
 
Hey Brent, your throttle cable is looking like mine....have you replaced it? I'm gunna get a new one and I'm wondering about the kickdown adjustment....should I stretch the cable out like you would on a MTB bike for a shifter? or just put it in without messing with it?
 
Hey Brent, your throttle cable is looking like mine....have you replaced it? I'm gunna get a new one and I'm wondering about the kickdown adjustment....should I stretch the cable out like you would on a MTB bike for a shifter? or just put it in without messing with it?

You're asking a 1 :banana: :wrench: F if I know. Mine s/b an original. I've never replaced it.
 
Guys,

Long time no post... Finally back on the mainland as some of you may have herd. With that comes the chance to finally wheel and wrench again! Looking to do the dual bat set up and just wondering why should I go this route over just picking up a painless dual bat kit or a warn kit? Any big plus, cost?

Thanks,

Matt
 
Hey Matt,

welcome back... I am trying to decide which route to go also.. Saw in your sig you have an over head console.. Any pics??
 
This way is not supposed to be the best just the simplest form so you don't have to refer to a reference guide while out in the field and need to jump yourself.
But I think you may need to switch back and forth between the two batteries to keep both batteries fully charged but not 100% sure.
 
Hey Matt,

welcome back... I am trying to decide which route to go also.. Saw in your sig you have an over head console.. Any pics??

Tim,

I dont know if i do... The rig is back in Jersey right now otherwise I'd shoot a pic for ya. Its a radio mount that I got from Mark's in OZ, I have switches mounted in it for the overhead lights that I used to run when I had that rack back in the day.

End hijack.

-Matt
 
This way is not supposed to be the best just the simplest form so you don't have to refer to a reference guide while out in the field and need to jump yourself.
But I think you may need to switch back and forth between the two batteries to keep both batteries fully charged but not 100% sure.

Mark,

The pre made "kits" do the same thing, switches, solenoid ect... Just wonder why make one from West Marine and put the switch under the hood v.s. a kit like this... Cost?

250-Amp Weather Resistant Dual Battery Current Control System

-Matt
 
I like simple... So I might just go this route.. Thanks for your opinion..
 

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