Dual Batteries?

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Franken470

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 9, 2018
Threads
16
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566
Location
Jackson, MS
Has anyone seen or done a dual battery setup under the hood?
 
Are you looking to add a power source up front or actually doing dual batteries? If you are looking for a power source I think Mount Yotas in Colorado makes a kit. SDHQ here in AZ makes one for a Tundra but not sure for the 250/550.
 
Are you looking to add a power source up front or actually doing dual batteries? If you are looking for a power source I think Mount Yotas in Colorado makes a kit. SDHQ here in AZ makes one for a Tundra but not sure for the 250/550.
I'm looking to mount a second battery wired in parallel with the primary battery on a smart switch... I have the same type setup on my 470, and it's nice to know that I have extra amps available etc....
 
First get a Noco which is better than a Second Battery to Jump to Start. $100 on Amazon - GB40 Model.

Figure out where the 2nd Battery will be Mounted.

Then Get this:
1784043955847.webp

This is both Cheap and Reliable.

Make your Cables and Crimp the Ends. Get a Cuter & Crimp Setup on Amazon.

Add Inline Fuses Close to Battery.

Or Buy a Kit for $600

1993-97 80 Series Land Cruiser Dual Battery Kit - Big Kit - https://huddexpo.com/1993-97-80-series-land-cruiser-dual-battery-kit-big-kit/
 
First get a Noco which is better than a Second Battery to Jump to Start. $100 on Amazon - GB40 Model.

Figure out where the 2nd Battery will be Mounted.

Then Get this:
View attachment 4176552
This is both Cheap and Reliable.

Make your Cables and Crimp the Ends. Get a Cuter & Crimp Setup on Amazon.

Add Inline Fuses Close to Battery.

Or Buy a Kit for $600

1993-97 80 Series Land Cruiser Dual Battery Kit - Big Kit - https://huddexpo.com/1993-97-80-series-land-cruiser-dual-battery-kit-big-kit/
It's not the parts, I have the blue sea charger on my other truck with a manual switch in the cab... I'm wanting to see mounting locations and battery trays for the second battery... solutions as everything is very tight under hood, but I do think some items could be relocated to make room for it. I also already have a NOCO in every vehicle I own.
 
It's not the parts, I have the blue sea charger on my other truck with a manual switch in the cab... I'm wanting to see mounting locations and battery trays for the second battery... solutions as everything is very tight under hood, but I do think some items could be relocated to make room for it. I also already have a NOCO in every vehicle I own.
Are you Running a Fridge or Winch or what is the secondary use?
 
From my research on our 5th gen 4Runner there was in the engine bay or in the cab. Honestly when I build my next rig be it a 6th Gen 4Runner or a LC250 I will do a dual battery setup, but the 2nd battery will be in the cargo area as I plan on running a lithium setup. To run a dual chemistry setup the only DCDC charger I am aware of is RedArc. With the RedArc DCDC chargers you can charge the batteries by either solar or the alternator.

If you plan on adding drawers a custom setup using 80/20 would be the best bet, you can design the drawers around your battery requirements. Battleborn makes a 270 Amp hour battery and the profile is fairly small for the size (Amp hours), but there is a down side price.

I know you said you wanted in the engine bay but space is limited.

Reach out to RedArc and tell them what you want to do and they can recommend a great setup. One thing about RedArc, their wiring schematics are very simple so after wiring up your system you will be confident that the job was done right.
 
From my research on our 5th gen 4Runner there was in the engine bay or in the cab. Honestly when I build my next rig be it a 6th Gen 4Runner or a LC250 I will do a dual battery setup, but the 2nd battery will be in the cargo area as I plan on running a lithium setup. To run a dual chemistry setup the only DCDC charger I am aware of is RedArc. With the RedArc DCDC chargers you can charge the batteries by either solar or the alternator.

If you plan on adding drawers a custom setup using 80/20 would be the best bet, you can design the drawers around your battery requirements. Battleborn makes a 270 Amp hour battery and the profile is fairly small for the size (Amp hours), but there is a down side price.

I know you said you wanted in the engine bay but space is limited.

Reach out to RedArc and tell them what you want to do and they can recommend a great setup. One thing about RedArc, their wiring schematics are very simple so after wiring up your system you will be confident that the job was done right.
IMHO I would put the LiPO4 Battery on the same Sliding Shelf as the Fridge or Integrate it into the Drawers and have a Wire to Fridge that allows Slide out.
**I'm seriously considering a Vevor 200AH Li Battery for $300 due to Lightweight and Small Size.
From what I read with (2) 100 Watt Solar Panels it will Run a Fridge Indefinitely with Adequate Sun.
 
Are you Running a Fridge or Winch or what is the secondary use?
Yes, I am running a fridge, winch (when needed), aux lighting, Cpap machine is on an ecoflow which I charge daily while driving off the vehicle. I personally just prefer to have the secondary under the hood vs. in the vehicle, I do think there is an opportunity to make a bigger tray and run 2 smaller 12V auto batteries in the factory location. I'm just not a fabricator, I'm sure someone will conceive a product one day, but it's still a much newer platform. I'll likely also get a high amp alternator when the time comes for replacement.
 
This does not address the OP’s direct question but just my $.02 after 20yrs experience powering a fridge.

I planned to but never installed a 2nd battery in my 80-series. A group 31 battery would run my Engel 45 3-4 days in reasonable ambient temps. In the field I never killed my battery or dropped voltage to the point of turning it off. Few years back I upgraded to a National Luna 60 as I’m now feeding a teenager. Same here but one less day of power with the larger fridge. My only field failure was on White Rim and it was no fault of the truck. 110°+ daytime temps created ambient temps inside the truck simply too high for the fridge to keep up. (I had ice cream). I have a small 80 watt folding solar panel now that with reasonable sun is an indefinite camping solution for the 80.

Now the Engel is in my 250. I run it on a small ecoflow battery pack that I charge off the inverter. It needs to be charged daily, it’s a small battery. As the OEM hybrid battery starts the 250 I don’t see an advantage to a traditional dual battery in our 250’s. Battery packs are simple and available in any size you could need. Larger ones have solar controllers built in, plug and play. Charge fast off the 250’s built in inverter. So far all my trips in this truck have been overlanding style where camp moves daily. So this has worked great. I have not devised an extended base camp solution but the folding solar panel would surely do the trick. Or plug the Engel into my trailer as I generally have that in tow if traveling in the 250. I generally take the 250 with the Mrs. And the 80 when wheeling with the guys.

I know, long ramble. At the end of the day the juice just is not worth the squeeze for a dual battery in a 250 to power camp accessories. (My opinion). The only advantage I can see is powering a winch. Yup it will look cool and save you cargo space. I can appreciate both of those.
 
I have always liked dual batteries and solar systems on my 60,80,200(x2) over the years. Running fridge, ham radio, starlink, etc. with starter battery isolation, self jump and so on.

Now I have something different for the GX550 and its working great. Inspired by the new wave of power stations (ie; Buletti, ecoFlow, etc) with high amp alternator charging, I decided to make my own. Pretty hard (impossible) to beat their price and value, but I didn't need an AC inverter and like a challenge.

It consists of a small 100AH lithium battery, a Vitron Orion 12/12 - 50A DC-DC charger mounted on drawer cabinet behind second row seats. The Vitron steals the show. It powers the ham radio, starlink, fridge, heated ski boot bag, etc. It chargers the aux battery with its BMS fast and easy when the engine runs. The GX550 OT+ has a 280amp alternator. I can take the aux batt out easily with Anderson connectors and then switch the Vitron from Charger to Power Supply mode to power loads from the starter batt with the benefit of low voltage disconnect. Recentrly running fridge while parked in 100+ degees for a couple days without running car didn't use half the battery capacity. A short drive charges it quickly. I have been impressed. Easy monitoring everything with bluetooth. Since it lives outside in our deep dark subzero winter I'll be pulling the aux lithium battery (and fridge ;)).

Mocking up a platform in second row next to fridge. Guess I should've took more recent pictures when I finished.

PXL_20260517_191006022.webp
 
To the original poster's question...
The space for a second battery is pretty much nonexistent given the twin turbos, intakes and inter-cooler. Especially after the factory battery was relocated to make room for an ARB twin air compressor. Plus, I didn't really want a controller and litium battery to have to live in the engine compartment.

PXL_20260514_220602192.webp
 
I'll likely also get a high amp alternator when the time comes for replacement.
Not to burst your bubble, but the LC250 doesn't have an alternator. That makes it nearly impossible to get 14V+ output for charging auxiliary batteries like you would with a traditional alternator setup.
 
Not to burst your bubble, but the LC250 doesn't have an alternator. That makes it nearly impossible to get 14V+ output for charging auxiliary batteries like you would with a traditional alternator setup.
Good thing this isn’t a 250… I’m in a 550 😉
 
Good thing this isn’t a 250… I’m in a 550 😉
Lucky you haha. Ive been trying to find away for my 250. Sorry I missed that part. my bad
 
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