door window weatherstrip (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

CRUISER CORPS has door window weatherstrip/seal/rubber for an fj60 but only goes from 8/80 to 10/85??? does my 10/86 built fj60 have a different channel? Here's the item: FJ60 Seal / Weatherstrip - Front Window Run Channel Rubber - FJ60 OEM - Weatherstrip

 

[g-man]

I just realized that I have fj60 and fj62 doors on my truck. I replaced the passenger side doors with 62 doors after my wreck. I just went out and inspected the weatherstrip inside the door windows and it is identical.

 

[g-man]

cruiser corps has assured me I can return the weatherstrip if it doesn't fit. I will update after I install. All this is stemming from sticking window after replacing the regulator. That is to say the window is hard to crank up and sticks in places. My weatherstrip is rock hard and I don't think any amount of silicone spray will help.

 

[slomoe]

there is also an "angle" adjustment of the regulator that effects the angle of the glass. it's one of the bolts on the regulator that has a groove and not just a hole.

 

[g-man]

there is also an "angle" adjustment of the regulator that effects the angle of the glass. it's one of the bolts on the regulator that has a groove and not just a hole.

I saw that slot...I just put the screw back in the same spot as the ghost mark on the door in the slot. I may play with that some.

hold off until last when putting that screw in..and don't completely tighten the others. Then you can tilt the regulator down and forward to get a much better access to the front screw hole. The one that holds the glass to the regulator under the speaker. Making that job much easier.

 

[g-man]

Update: I installed these today and can testify that they do fit both late 60 series and 62 series front doors. No more wind blowing through the window!! ( I thought the wind was coming through the door/seal at the "A" post). They are a "toyota" part. These will replace both the smaller rubber in the lower front window run and the main one that goes around the window. It's maybe 3 or 4 inches shorter at the bottom track in the front but I didn't notice that having any affect on the window.

 

[gregnash]

Update: I installed these today and can testify that they do fit both late 60 series and 62 series front doors. No more wind blowing through the window!! ( I thought the wind was coming through the door/seal at the "A" post). They are a "toyota" part. These will replace both the smaller rubber in the lower front window run and the main one that goes around the window. It's maybe 3 or 4 inches shorter at the bottom track in the front but I didn't notice that having any affect on the window.

Good to know.. how hard are they to remove/replace? When removing the old ones did you break any of the clips? I need to do this for my truck soon and plan to when I go about replacing a couple doors.

 

[g-man]

No clips on these. they are the window weatherstrip that go in the window runs/tracks. Clicking on the link in at the top ..in my first post will take you to Cruiser Corps site with prices/images of the weatherstrip. Pricey but needed. I did not replace the beltline fuzzy that I think you are speaking of. But these did tighten up the window so I'm not seeing a need to replace the beltline trim/fuzzy/felt.

I removed the window first by pulling the door card. Roll the window all the way down. unscrew the two screws at the bottom of the regulator to free the window. DONT forget to hold onto the window so it doesn't slip fall. You don't want to break a window! Pull the window up and angle a bit and comes right out. Use a hook and pull the old weatherstrip out. Pull the short piece in the front run inside the door. Then pull the big one that goes around the window and into the back of the door. Next push the new weatherstrip in and work them down into the door. No need for adhesive. The barb made into the rubber holds it in place.

Reinstalling the window ...make sure it goes in the runs before you try to screw it to the regulator. have a helper lower it. Loosen the slotted screw on the regulator, may need to loosen some other regulator screws too. tilt the regulator down and forward in the door. This way you can have access to the forward screw hole where the window attaches. Otherwise this hole will be about 1 inch above the cut out under the speaker and unless you have really small hands it's gonna be a pain to reach. Back hole is pretty easy. Make sure the bottom of the window sits on top of the "C" channel the rollers run in on the bottom of the regulator.

 

[gregnash]

Ah ok you did the window runs not the weatherstrip (thinking of the parameter seal around the door to seal the cabin from the elements). Yeah I have the OEM drivers side that needs to be replaced on mine, have it waiting to go into the new drivers door when I get to painting it.

 

[g-man]

I see Cruiser Corps sells those too. Probably best to take the window out and tackle all this at the same time. The inner weatherstrip just has metal tabs that attach to the door card. That looks easier. Looks like the white clips come with the outer piece.

 

[Rusto]

good thread. Before I drop the coin on this, can you confirm that this was for the interior window channels on which the windows travel up and down? I've replaced the regulators and lubed the channels, but they still stick in the winter and roll up and down inconsistently.

I like have manual windows - some of the people that ride these days have never actually rolled down a window - but I'd like it better if the process wasn't inconsistent and difficult.

 

[gregnash]

You will have to determine where the window is actually sticking to ensure that area is clean. Mine did the same thing this morning after a weekend of light snowfall. Figured that it was due to the fact that my current drives door leaks and the window as frozen inside the door somewhere. After it had heated up some it rolled up and down just fine.

 

[g-man]

good thread. Before I drop the coin on this, can you confirm that this was for the interior window channels on which the windows travel up and down? I've replaced the regulators and lubed the channels, but they still stick in the winter and roll up and down inconsistently.

I like have manual windows - some of the people that ride these days have never actually rolled down a window - but I'd like it better if the process wasn't inconsistent and difficult.

The windows roll down much easier and roll up a little easier. I replaced the window runs and the regulators. I can't see the belt weatherstrip aka fuzzies causing a rubbing issue or difficulty in rolling up or down. BUT...they do keep water out of the door and are worth replacing for that purpose. They are on my list of things to replace. If I had the $$ I would have done it all at once.

 

[Rusto]

yeah, my fuzzies are fine. It's the runs that I think are now the issue. It'll start off fine, then bind up about halfway down, then get a little easier for the final third.

 

[gregnash]

When you mount the window on the regulator isn't the mounting holes ovalized slightly to allow for some movement? Maybe pull the doorcard and pop the handle back on. Then go through rolling up and down and see if there is something that is amiss, seems like it is binding somewhere like something is out of alignment.

 

[g-man]

yeah, my fuzzies are fine. It's the runs that I think are now the issue. It'll start off fine, then bind up about halfway down, then get a little easier for the final third.

the main reason I replaced my window run/channel rubber was because wind blowing through the door window even with the window up. The rubber just got too hard. Even spraying it with lube didn't help. I do think it can cause some sticking problems with rolling up and down. Aligning and greasing the regulators will help too with the "hard to crank" window.

 

[Rusto]

I just purchased some used window runners for my back windows from cruiserparts. It was pretty cheap ($25 a window) so we'll see. I'm going to figure out how to refurbish it before the install. Maybe try this - Restoring Hard Rubber Parts -- Unbelievable Results!

I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah my drivers one was pretty jacked up from a break-in attempt from when the PO had it. Driver door lock ended up having a screwdriver shoved through it to make it open apparently but the person tried shoving the same screwdriver under the run and around the window to pull it down I think. This resulted in it (the run) getting folded under the window and getting jacked up.

Put the new run in my new spare drives this weekend and was easy as pie going in. Hopefully the rest of the hardware will swap over without issue.