door speaker grills
- Thread starter TTO5
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check with Shane at LabRak. I believe he has or was considering putting together a kit
Just order some fabric from sonic electronics. I think it's like $15 a yard. And that's enough to do two cruisers. Also pick up som 3m super 777 spray adhesive to recover the speaker grills.
As far as what it looks like under. It is just a plastic grill, but it will most likely be stained with the glue they use at the factory.
As far as what it looks like under. It is just a plastic grill, but it will most likely be stained with the glue they use at the factory.
http://shop.metrictlc.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=speaker+covers
You can buy run of the mill fabric cheap, I did this several times as the weave was loose and snagged and the glue soaked through it and it became a mess.
The tan i found is suit material and very expensive in comparison, but the quality is superior. I also give you a large square so you can rotate the door speaker covers in any direction.
Does not exist.
DFXR
SILVER Star
Underneath the fabric is grey perforated plastic with a light glue stain as mentioned above. How ghetto it looks is very relative to the condition of the rest of your interior. It's not that bad-looking in a 13 year old truck but in an '05, different story. I'll post pics later today so you can see.
Plastidippable? (not in the queens' english dictionary, I am sure)
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I won a set of the LabRak covers in the 100's in the hills raffle, and while I have not installed them yet they are a huge step up from the regular speaker grill fabric I have used in the past. They will look better and last longer than anything I've used before.
Really nice stuff, Thanks again Shane for sponsoring the event!
Really nice stuff, Thanks again Shane for sponsoring the event!
Pictures Please 
Here's a topic of the grilles w/out the fabric.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...r-speaker-grill-looks-like-behind-fabric.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...r-speaker-grill-looks-like-behind-fabric.html
DFXR
SILVER Star
Picture attached - you can kinda see the yellowish glue swirl but it's definitely an improvement over ripped fabric. Plastidip sounds promising but I wonder if it would clog up the perfs. Painting these covers is the kind of thing that would be nice but is way down on my list.
mcgaskins
SILVER Star
Any pics by chance? I'm about to install a new deck and speakers this weekend and was planning to do the same.
mcgaskins
SILVER Star
Looks good to me! That was my original pic above from last year..I was planning to tear into the stereo right away, but I'm just now getting around to it! I think I'll go the paint route as well since I think that recovering with cloth will just get dirty and damaged again the future during ski season.
Guys, do the plastic speaker grills just pop off? My cloth is toast now and I'm going to either paint like above or recover with cloth of some kind. let me know, Clay
They don't just pop off. There are three phillips head screws you can only get to from behind the door panel.
You don't have to completely remove the panel, just remove the plastic pin retainers (push in the center and it pops out so you can pull the retainer out) and the screw behind the door latch handle (pop out the plastic cover behind the handle to see the screw) and the two screws under the plastic cap at the front of the panel. Last thing is to remove the bolt holding the metal support bracket to the door (pry up the door switch panel to gain access.
At this point you can simply pull out the bottom of the panel to get to the back of the speaker grill. There is a white plastic retainer at the rear of the panel that is easy to pop loose.
If you want to remove the whole panel, then disconnect the light and switch panel harnesses, pull off the triangular tweeter grill and push up on the bottom of the panel to get the metal clips at the top to pop loose.
Do all this very gently and don't yank or force anything since the plastic bits are somewhat fragile. I had to order some of the plastic pin retainers because they just crumbled when I tried to remove them.
I just used the Labrack fabric with 3M 77 spray glue. It's nice because it is foam backed. This keeps it from wrinkling on the edges when wrapping around corners.
It took all of two hours to do all four doors, once I spent two hours first figuring out that nothing moves until that bolt under the switch panel is removed.
Good Luck!
You don't have to completely remove the panel, just remove the plastic pin retainers (push in the center and it pops out so you can pull the retainer out) and the screw behind the door latch handle (pop out the plastic cover behind the handle to see the screw) and the two screws under the plastic cap at the front of the panel. Last thing is to remove the bolt holding the metal support bracket to the door (pry up the door switch panel to gain access.
At this point you can simply pull out the bottom of the panel to get to the back of the speaker grill. There is a white plastic retainer at the rear of the panel that is easy to pop loose.
If you want to remove the whole panel, then disconnect the light and switch panel harnesses, pull off the triangular tweeter grill and push up on the bottom of the panel to get the metal clips at the top to pop loose.
Do all this very gently and don't yank or force anything since the plastic bits are somewhat fragile. I had to order some of the plastic pin retainers because they just crumbled when I tried to remove them.
I just used the Labrack fabric with 3M 77 spray glue. It's nice because it is foam backed. This keeps it from wrinkling on the edges when wrapping around corners.
It took all of two hours to do all four doors, once I spent two hours first figuring out that nothing moves until that bolt under the switch panel is removed.
Good Luck!
@Phippsj, man I knew it couldn't be that easy. Well I guess I have Saturday morning plans now!, haha. Thanks for the details, will def help out. Take care Clay
