- Thread starter
- #21
This is the current location of the lock bolt. It is accelerating amazingly. Timing marks are way off still around 20-ish deg btdc. I suppose another option is the crank pulley is off, but that seems less likely.
Doggy low rpm, but plenty of juice over 2k rpm
- Thread starter CharlieS
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- Thread starter
- #22
I've been futzing with this trying to adjust a tooth or two either way, and went to better and then wouldn't start.
I reset to the point of putting the timing mark back on 0 and pointing the rotor at 11:30. It is back to where it was when I started.
I think I'm still a tooth or more off. I think a toooth is 9 degrees (?) so one tooth would put me where i want to be.
Given that it runs well with the timing set to 20 + degrees btdc according to the crank marks, would anyone be able to tell me which direction (clockwise or counterclockwise) I would want to move the rotor? Would it be one tooth more clockwise or counterclockwise?
Sorry for the stupid question, but I'm getting frustrated and I can't get my head around it.
I reset to the point of putting the timing mark back on 0 and pointing the rotor at 11:30. It is back to where it was when I started.
I think I'm still a tooth or more off. I think a toooth is 9 degrees (?) so one tooth would put me where i want to be.
Given that it runs well with the timing set to 20 + degrees btdc according to the crank marks, would anyone be able to tell me which direction (clockwise or counterclockwise) I would want to move the rotor? Would it be one tooth more clockwise or counterclockwise?
Sorry for the stupid question, but I'm getting frustrated and I can't get my head around it.
So, assuming you're right, if it's running "right" set to 20* advance, it sounds like you're one tooth retarded.
You would turn the rotor one tooth OPPOSITE the direction you would turn the body to get your desired result, if that makes sense.
That's not to say I'm confirming your hypothesis - I'm not there to be sure you're one tooth off - just laying out what I think you're saying in hopes that it helps you wrap your head around it.
You would turn the rotor one tooth OPPOSITE the direction you would turn the body to get your desired result, if that makes sense.
That's not to say I'm confirming your hypothesis - I'm not there to be sure you're one tooth off - just laying out what I think you're saying in hopes that it helps you wrap your head around it.
I still think it's gearing, but it doesn't hurt to make sure all your ducks are in a row. The telltale symptom to me, was when you said that in low range it's smooth from idle up to 3k rpm, and it's not in high range. If there was a fuel or air problem that affects performance/roughness, you'd probably be able to notice it constantly or throughout the performance of the rig - even revving it in the driveway. Timing and distributor efforts are, at 1st you set it per the specs, and then adjust it slightly for the performance you're looking for. Being off a tooth can be compensated with adjustment, as has been mentioned. With the bigger tires, the load on the engine is increased, so in overcoming inertia and until you get momentum working for you, the performance suffers from previous experience with stock tires. By trying the acceleration in low range, you let the gears work for you, although low range is definitely not needed, you've taken the handicap off, that's inflicted on your engine by the larger tires.
I was going to say the distributor may be off a tooth but…
35’s WTH stock gears? That tranny is a strugglin.
Maybe a combo of both. Where does the temp gauge sit while towing or long uphill loads?
35’s WTH stock gears? That tranny is a strugglin.
Maybe a combo of both. Where does the temp gauge sit while towing or long uphill loads?
- Thread starter
- #31
So, I gave up on trying to get the distributor on the right tooth. I have enough adjustment that I can get it running well, but it is off the marks.
I still want to time it accurately though...
To tackle this another way, I picked up another timing light, this time with a dial so I can set the degrees of advance.
My theory is that I should be able to dial in the advance, plus the number of degrees of a single tooth, and then time the engine to the 0 degree mark on the block. So if I want to set it at 3 degrees btdc, and a tooth is 9 degrees, I would set the dial on the timing light to 12 degrees, and adjust the distributor until the crank pulley notch is at 0 degrees. Similarly, if I want 7 degrees of advance, and a tooth is 9 degrees, I would set the timing light dial to 16 degrees. And so forth...
Is this idea sound?
And if so, how many degrees of timing is a single tooth on the distributor? I think I read 9 degrees on another 'mud thread, but would like to be sure, since it is important to this plan.
I still want to time it accurately though...
To tackle this another way, I picked up another timing light, this time with a dial so I can set the degrees of advance.
My theory is that I should be able to dial in the advance, plus the number of degrees of a single tooth, and then time the engine to the 0 degree mark on the block. So if I want to set it at 3 degrees btdc, and a tooth is 9 degrees, I would set the dial on the timing light to 12 degrees, and adjust the distributor until the crank pulley notch is at 0 degrees. Similarly, if I want 7 degrees of advance, and a tooth is 9 degrees, I would set the timing light dial to 16 degrees. And so forth...
Is this idea sound?
And if so, how many degrees of timing is a single tooth on the distributor? I think I read 9 degrees on another 'mud thread, but would like to be sure, since it is important to this plan.
Pull the distributor from the head. Bring #1 piston to TDC on the compression/power stroke. Line up the distinguished tooth of the distributor with the notch on the distributor housing. Note the rotor position and mark it on the housing. Then, install the distributor into the head. If the rotor points to your mark on the housing with the lock down bolt hole pretty close to center of the slot then you are golden and ready to start the engine and adjust with the timing light to 3*. I never saw the point of deviating from the factory timing spec.
Counter clockwise rotation of the distributor will retard and clockwise will advance timing.
Counter clockwise rotation of the distributor will retard and clockwise will advance timing.
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- Thread starter
- #33
So here is my rotor at #1 tdc:
So I should remove the distributor hold down, and slide it out, align those marks, and once reinstalled , it will end up pointing to the top left hold down (red line) instead of where it is now (blue line)?
So I should remove the distributor hold down, and slide it out, align those marks, and once reinstalled , it will end up pointing to the top left hold down (red line) instead of where it is now (blue line)?
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It will point to #1 on the distributor cap, that’s how you know it is right.
Cheers
Cheers
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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Also, I don’t agree with gears being your issue.
Mine and a half dozen others I have built have stock gears and 35’s and don’t have your problem. Mine pulls good and strong from a stop with stock gears and 315’s.
Cheers
Mine and a half dozen others I have built have stock gears and 35’s and don’t have your problem. Mine pulls good and strong from a stop with stock gears and 315’s.
Cheers
It can be tricky to get it right. You are on the right track.
No disrespect, but just defending my point of view. Maybe you never had a stock 80 or drove one for a reasonable amount of time. But there is a big difference in lower mph performance with 35's and stock 31's with the non turbo 1FZ. I bought my '94 used in 1998, bone stock with the Michelin LTX 31's. So I know 1st hand the difference in performance, upgrading to 33's and then to 35's. (315/75/16)
If it's on/off power wise I'd double check that the throttle position sensor is dialed in per the FSM.
Do you notice a difference if the PWR button for the transmission is on? Mine is always on (but the bulb is burned out) and one time it was off and I thought something was wrong.
Do you notice a difference if the PWR button for the transmission is on? Mine is always on (but the bulb is burned out) and one time it was off and I thought something was wrong.