Does my radiator looked cooked?

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I'd personally recommend a drain/fill/run/drain cycle of distilled water before I used a flush, just to ensure long-term compatibility with the Toyota SLL coolant. I'm not sure what is referred to by "reverse flush.

What's the general plan of attack for accounting for proper antifreeze content after distilled water flush? As I understand it, after a couple flushes, you dilute the coolant held in the heater cores, which largely become distilled water after the flush(es). It's a known capacity but I can't find that info right now.

Also, do folks generally subscribe to a flush on the old coolant system prior to removal and replacement of radiator/hoses/etc, or is it better to a drain, replace all parts, then run the drain & fill with distilled water on the new components?

At this point, I have every soft hose and associated clamps, radiator, coolant overflow tank, thermostat, water inlet, fan clutch, and fan clutch bracket for the job. Don't really wanna buy anymore shtuff, but any other bits I should be doing while radiator is out?
 
What's the general plan of attack for accounting for proper antifreeze content after distilled water flush? As I understand it, after a couple flushes, you dilute the coolant held in the heater cores, which largely become distilled water after the flush(es). It's a known capacity but I can't find that info right now.

Also, do folks generally subscribe to a flush on the old coolant system prior to removal and replacement of radiator/hoses/etc, or is it better to a drain, replace all parts, then run the drain & fill with distilled water on the new components?

At this point, I have every soft hose and associated clamps, radiator, coolant overflow tank, thermostat, water inlet, fan clutch, and fan clutch bracket for the job. Don't really wanna buy anymore shtuff, but any other bits I should be doing while radiator is out?
It ... depends. If you drain the coolant and it doesn't look bad, then no need to flush IMO.

I can't remember if I already mentioned it, but clean the evap coil from behind when the radiator is out.
 
What's the general plan of attack for accounting for proper antifreeze content after distilled water flush? As I understand it, after a couple flushes, you dilute the coolant held in the heater cores, which largely become distilled water after the flush(es). It's a known capacity but I can't find that info right now.

Also, do folks generally subscribe to a flush on the old coolant system prior to removal and replacement of radiator/hoses/etc, or is it better to a drain, replace all parts, then run the drain & fill with distilled water on the new components?

At this point, I have every soft hose and associated clamps, radiator, coolant overflow tank, thermostat, water inlet, fan clutch, and fan clutch bracket for the job. Don't really wanna buy anymore shtuff, but any other bits I should be doing while radiator is out?
In 98-03 which use Toy LL (red) 100% gallon jug, mixed 50/50 with Distilled Water.

When flushing with D-water, until runs clear. Which takes ~3 times, of bring engine up to operating temp. Opening block drains and radiator drain, after each run up to op temp. With only D-water in system. We have about 1 gallon of D-water in system remaining. They way we know this is by measuring every drop that comes out including from reservoir. A properly top system, has 4 gallons. When we just drain, we get ~3 gallons.

Note: One can blow out system and heater cores. Getting ~3.8 gallons out. Tees must be removed to blow out heater cores.

Then add 1 gallon of 100 red. Now you've a~50/50 in system. Mix next gallon of Red with 1 gallon of D-water, outside of engine. Then pour in the 50/50 mix.

Burp air over next few heating and cooling cycles. Checking under cap after 8 hr. cool down and during coolest time of day, before sun up is best.
 
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