- Thread starter
- #41
Yup, took a look underneath there's not enough space. Easy decision!
Just took the ADD extension shaft out. Now to get get this little ADD gear out the side of the diff. It may want to put up a fight.
DIY 4.3 Re-Gear
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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Yup, took a look underneath there's not enough space. Easy decision!
Just took the ADD extension shaft out. Now to get get this little ADD gear out the side of the diff. It may want to put up a fight.
I trust you to post pictures but I’m impatient... I’m assuming you mean there is a spring clip like on many inner CVs holding that gear into the diff?
If so does the FSM specify replacement with a new part? Same question for the inner CV clips..
- Thread starter
- #44
The little gear looking thing in the housing at the bottom right. That's the Tundra ADD intermediate shaft. I'm mentally preparing to pull it since it didn't casually want to come out during my little work from home stretch break. Pry, 2 prys, steel cable around it with a puller... any suggestions?
The 200-series side shaft (left) doesn't look to use a retaining clip in the diff. The extension housing retains it.
The 200-series side shaft (left) doesn't look to use a retaining clip in the diff. The extension housing retains it.
Yes, I recall that little bugger not wanting to give it up. Nothing would pop it, so I took a break, came back to it, and it popped easily with a single pry bar , like it was nothing. The clip was even in one piece on the stub...
- Thread starter
- #47
Celebrated too early as that was just the intro battle.
The sprocket that I pulled is guided by a roller bearing pressed into the side of the housing. So I lucked out when pulling by using two prys as one would have it bind against the bearing.
The LC setup doesn't use this roller bearing and the side shaft is too large to clear. Out must come the bearing and I didn't care to separate the halves to press it out.
Destructo time. Stuffed a towel down the bore to catch particles. Cutting the bearing with a tool is probably futile given the angle and hardened shell. Out came hardened punches and chisels of various sizes. Need a pretty fine pitch center punch, to get under the thin wall bearing shell to start. Lots of light taps initially. Persuasion and patience and it came out.
The sprocket that I pulled is guided by a roller bearing pressed into the side of the housing. So I lucked out when pulling by using two prys as one would have it bind against the bearing.
The LC setup doesn't use this roller bearing and the side shaft is too large to clear. Out must come the bearing and I didn't care to separate the halves to press it out.
Destructo time. Stuffed a towel down the bore to catch particles. Cutting the bearing with a tool is probably futile given the angle and hardened shell. Out came hardened punches and chisels of various sizes. Need a pretty fine pitch center punch, to get under the thin wall bearing shell to start. Lots of light taps initially. Persuasion and patience and it came out.
Sometimes the right tool makes or breaks a job.
Seems to me if that inner diameter is no longer used for a bearing race or sealing it’s ok to have some blemishes from removal.. or does something go back in there?
- Thread starter
- #52
Front end back in. Snug as a bug and everything fit just fine. As far as re-gearing goes, this was an easy job cause the carrier drops right in. Should be able to fill it will oil and do a rolling test before I tackle the rear end next. Even better the Harrop came in direct from Australia today. Gotta thank Georg ( @orangefj45 ) from Valley Hybrids for getting it ordered with a quickness.
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- Thread starter
- #54
Onto the rear. Axles out. Easier than I anticipated, probably because there's no rust to fight, and all bolts were easy to access with an impact. Takes about 45 minutes per axle at an easy pace.
I reached out to my local Toyota about pressing axle bearings. For the low low price of $296/axle.
SDTrux didn't really want the job either and they said they don't do many at all as they don't see many issue. These guys must all hate this job. I'm debating as the axle bearing seems drum tight.
I reached out to my local Toyota about pressing axle bearings. For the low low price of $296/axle.
SDTrux didn't really want the job either and they said they don't do many at all as they don't see many issue. These guys must all hate this job. I'm debating as the axle bearing seems drum tight.
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How many miles are on your LX? IIRC the normal dealer price to do the rear bearings (including all the dismantling you've done) is something like $3000.Onto the rear. Axles out. Easier than I anticipated, probably because there's no rust to fight, and all bolts were easy to access with an impact. Takes about 45 minutes per axle at an easy pace.
I reached out to my local Toyota about pressing axle bearings. For the low low price of $296/axle.
View attachment 2352425
Onto the rear. Axles out. Easier than I anticipated, probably because there's no rust to fight, and all bolts were easy to access with an impact. Takes about 45 minutes per axle at an easy pace.
I reached out to my local Toyota about pressing axle bearings. For the low low price of $296/axle.
View attachment 2352425
Well done!
Talk with your local NAPA, some offer "Machine shop services" and pressing bearings on and off is something they usually do. Next up would be a small independent repair shop that offers press services.
I have not done a 200/LX rear yet, quite a few Prado 120/150s as needed. I built a press tool like the Toyota SST that has a flang that bolts up to the unit bearing, the flange has a large tube on it and another flange on the other end. Combined with a quality 50T shop press it makes quick work of it. I am going to be regearing my LX570 as well (4.88), we will see how the 100k wheel bearings feel when doing the job. New seals regardless of course.
- Thread starter
- #57
Found a shop in San Diego, referred to me by SDTrux. Pro Gear Differentials will do it for $150 for the pair and sounded very confident, with necessary jig and tools. There is a machine shop Napa down here I've used before and could be an option.
Pumpkin is out.
Pumpkin is out.
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- Thread starter
- #58
~125k. Both bearings seemed pretty drum tight.
It's not critical at this time, and given how reasonably easy it is to pull the axles, I could pass. Having pulled the axles, a pro could have both out within an hour. Fortunately I found a shop that will do it and might as well since I do tow on the heavier end.
My impression is that these axle bearings are reliable and will handle the long haul well into higher mileages. On particularly heavy rigs or those that have seen some incident or abuse beyond their capacities, will need earlier attention.
Post in the Beach n' Toys Clubhouse, there may be a local cruiser head w/ the tools, and "we're" always willing to help (I just pass beers and take pictures, not as skilled as you folks).
RET2
SILVER Star
Pro Gear did my rear locker install, good shop IMHO.