Different options of cylinder head for BJ40 (B diesel) (1 Viewer)

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I search for a new cylinder head for my old B diesel (March 1980).
These heads are very rare now. I try to understand the options.

Official replacement for 11101-59045 is 11101-59046 (not available).
3B head is created for large cylinders - I dislike this option.

I made a small comparison of the cylinder heads for B diesel up to 1995. it looks like it is possible to take the latest cylinder head (11101-56034 from mid 90s), latest head gasket (11115-56130) and my old Valves and Arm rockers - and it should work?

May be someone had experience with similar ideas?
Heads comparison.jpg

Valves 1.jpg
 
Interesting idea.

Seems hard for me to imagine it would work though (with all the coolant passageways lining up etc).

I understand you can get new non-Toyota heads in the original Toyota 11101-59045 design. Wouldn't this be a safer bet? (Google Search on that part number and you should find some sellers. Also no doubt Engine Australia has them.)

If you go ahead with your plan, I'd be keen to find out how you get on.

:beer:

PS. Where did your image come from for all that cylinder head data... Lots of useful stuff there and it all looks accurate (from what I can see in a brief check) too.:)
 
The head 11101-56034 is not available.
But 11101-56050 is available (gasket 11115-56090; intake valve 13711-56050; exhaust 13715-56050). I've looked at the photos and realized at least one BIG difference - old head cover doesn't fit the new head (for restoration it is NO).

Head.jpg

Head cover.jpg


I should search for other options (I think with my cracks I have to find a new head). Australia or Japanparts may be
Head 1.jpg

Head 2.jpg
 
Those cracks are apparently pretty common on 40-series B-series heads.

As you can see from this thread, some people are happy to keep running with them:
3b head crack

(I often wonder whether I have them or not, but I've never had the head off my engine to find out.)

Of course no-one will guarantee any head-work on such a head and I would be very dissappointed (same as you no doubt are) to find such cracks.

I'm undecided whether, if I found them, I'd try and get a new head or run with the old one...

:beer:
 
I'm out of my depth on the new ex-China/Taiwan replacement heads. So if I was to want to go that way I think I'd consult the likes of Engine Australia who, from my experience, have a lot experience with these old diesel engines and should know if there are any differences/fitment-issues/short-comings with what they offer (assuming they do indeed offer a replacement 11101-59045 head).

They generally ask you the production date of your vehicle and your block casting number and work from there if I recall correctly (so I believe they're keen to make sure you get the correct parts).

Cheapest price wouldn't be my priority if I was in your shoes.... although price would still have major importance of course.

Good luck

:)
 
Has anyone considered having the cracks welded? I had that done on a cast block one time and it worked well, saved me $3k-$4k.
 
IMHO
I read the long documents regarding welding of the cylinder heads. Finally I got my short answer - no.
As I understand the process of cast iron welding - in order to escape from the stress around - you need to preheat the head up to 1000 grad Celsius (ab 1832 F).
Obviously it is not possible. And its only one requirement from very long list of operations (before and after).

External side of the block is not so stressed by pressure / tension / temperature - it might work.
 
Australia Diesel forever!

2 days after the payment and the head is delivered from Australia to Austria. Amazing!

First impression from the new head is very positive. Still China, but under strict control (I am about cylinder heads here).
Will see ...

Head 3.jpg
Head 2.jpg
Head 1.jpg
Camshft.jpg
 
Economist, if you don't mind my asking what was price for the head & parts?

Allen
 
I think those parts are good quality ... but the Toyota MLS (multi-layer-steel) head gasket is considered by many here (including myself) to be better than that one.

By the way, here's a photo of one of your cracks that goes right through to a coolant passageway:
HeadCrack2LTRaboyto2.jpg


But then I believe this is a 2LT head and aluminium... (rather than a cast iron B-series head) so probably irrelevant.

And here's a comparison between the Toyota MLS gasket (11115-56120) and your new one that I did some time ago:
HeadGasketOEMtop.jpg

HeadGasketOEMmlsBott.jpg


HeadGasket1111556120.jpg

:beer:
 
To abosely: head 350; Camshaft 400; Valves 7; gasket 70. All in USD, subject of FX - net of freight & custom

To lostmarbles: Thanks for follow up! I remember I read it some time ago, but forgot!
Finally I found the OEM gasket set 04111-56025 (replacement to old 04111-56013/14). It is still available from Japan now.
Will use it instead of non OEM.
Engine parts.jpg

By the way, if you read a part number on my new cylinder head - it is 11101-56034. This part number was in my table as the last available. But this part number should have a new cylinder head cover. But my head on the photo has an old version. I guess there are two types of the heads with the same part number - for the old cover (like mine) and for the new. But it is just a guess.
Head number.jpg


to gerg: thanks. I collected the spare parts and expect to enjoy the mint power :)
PS my hint is to use 2B piston & piston rings & sleeves (extra 8 hp). The diesel pump is the same (even major adjustments are common B/2B).

spare parts BJ40 mint.jpg
 
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As more I study as more questions I have :(

In the first table of this post - it is mentioned that the last updated head 11101-56034 should be used with part number 90201-14022.
I compare two charts - and realized that this part number is a washer under the valve spring (marked in read)
extra part for the head.png


I tried to order this part from Toyota, but it is not available any more :(.
I search for the image and found one 3B restoration photo stream - so we know how it looks like
washer.jpg

Its a simple washer. I think it is possible to find while we measure two diameters.

Funny but there is a part number available from Yamaha with the same part number and look, but I have no idea does it fit or not

washer 1.jpg


And actually my BIG question - do I need to put the washers when we install the new head?
If yes, do we need to upgrade to other parts too (marked id yellow on the scheme)?
 
I've noticed Yamaha parts bearing part numbers identical to Toyota's too. But sometimes the parts are clearly different (despite the close similarity in this case). :meh:

You amaze me ....with the parts you've managed to acquire (esp. as shown in the lower pic of post #14) and with your research skills.:clap:

I'm not sure that gasket set you're ordering will have the MLS gasket .... (I bet @beno would know. You're so lucky to have him over there!)

Sorry but I can't help on the washer thickness. (It looks like that's all you need to know.)

:beer:

PS. So this head (11101-56034) is meant for the latter 5-bearing-camshaft engines, your old rocker-assembly and pushrods etc will still fit, but you're just having to use the latter-style valves and valve seals with it? And you're gaining about 200cc and a few horses just by changing the liners and pistons (complete with rings)?
 
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lostmarbles thank you. I am just a beginner. It took some time to find these spare parts :)

I assume that this head 11101-56034 should fit to old rocker-assembly, old valves and valve seals (the dimensions from the first table are the same). For safety reasons I bought the new valves. Will measure the difference if any.

My OEM gasket kit is official replacement. The gasket is the same as in our post. I will bite it before installation

I've checked oem numbers for each part of B / 2B diesel before 08/1980 (several hundred). All parts are the same, except piston, piston rings and liners! But liners have the same external diameter - so could be replaced.
Then I've checked the pump adjustment - its interesting that the testing charts are different but due to different rpm. If you put two charts into the table and recalculate apple to apple - its almost identical - but vacuum in bigger engine is higher - exactly enough for more diesel. Later I doublechecked it with a diesel master.
As well as I want to do a careful restoration - my B diesel stays the same from outside, but I expect to receive 10% more power. 2B is very close to 3B in terms of horse power (esp to II gen). its may be still very small - but if I need speed I can take other car.
 
...here we were discussing B to 2B upgrade

Ha ha.

My memory is age-compromised.. like every other part of me now...

I'd forgotten this discussion.. (except for a vague feeling of familiarity)

:beer:
 
Wow that looks like your building an engine from scratch. Nice work. And the mint I was referring to is the candy they give with their kits. It was official diesel power candy. Mint flavour. Enjoy.
 

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