Diesel swap - 2L-T into 22R pick up

[Fantom]

OK, I have been hesitant of posting my "progress" because of past experiences and not wanting to jinx it.
As mentioned in another thread, I did buy a 1983, 153,000km L diesel engine, 2.2L, non turbo. With good compression of 500psi across all cylinders. So in my "free" time I have been refreshing the motor and modifying it slightly.
The motor sat for a while but ran nice and clean when I fired it up. Because it sat it had some rust in the coolant chambers:







Cleaned inside and out:







Primer:















So now it is an L engine with a 2LT injection pump and will have a Mitsubishi turbo.

 

[canucksafari]

Very nice Mat. Will be a shame to get it dirty.

 

[sailor]

Looks great- Well done! ( Paint it red and gold, ok?)

 

[BCR4619]

Oooo Nice! I was wondering how this was going recently.

 

[AJAEbj42]

Good progress!

 

[Fantom]

This was all the easy stuff of just cleaning and re assembly. Next is the manifold for the turbo.
Coincidentally the turbo has been an issue. As per Greg's recommendations I went with a mitaubishi TD04-09, wanting to bypass the internal wastegate and installing an external one to improve flow, I decided to cut off the wastegate part of the turbo. That way it will be bypassed permanently and won't have that cavity for gasses to build up in.
As per the usual progress on this build, I found a crack, internally on the exhaust housing. Looks like it might have even been a bad casting.
So I'm buying the turbo that Greg has and joining the two to make it work.

 

[Fantom]

...and fun continues...
The timing belt from the L engine is the same as the 2L, except for the year that I have. That one, for reasons known only to Toyota, has one less idler in the oil cover assembly and is shorter. Yes, I could use the oil cover from the 2LT that I have left over, but by now I despise that engine so much and don't want to use any more parts off it. Also, this one is already installed, and sealed. It also turns out that no part store has stock of them in Canada. So thanks to ebay, I have 2 coming.
To further the entertainment, I ordered replacement glow plugs, the L ones are different from the 2L and 2LT. I get a full set from Beck Arnley via my parts place, only to find out that 1 of the 4 is correct, while the other 3 are some different, incompatible size:




I returned the 3, called Lordco and they had 4 in stock, 2 correct, 2 wrong (still, same part number), so after calling to 3 different Lordco stores, I found one that had 3 correct and 1 wrong.
I emailed Beck Arnley direct, they responded within the hour and are actually looking into it.
The fun never ends...

 

[Fantom]

Oh, and I finally have a chance to design the manifold flanges....
I picked up the Schedule 40 90* weld-on elbows (1.5") for $3.50 each, not my best price on them but I didn't feel like driving to Delta. Got a couple more flanges to model (yes John, yours included) and I can finally send it off to get cut.

 

[Fantom]

Forgot the pic

 

[Wheelingnoob]

The curse of the thread update.....

 

[AJAEbj42]

Yeah, stop posting for your own good!

 

[canucksafari]

So the cutting of the flange will happen soon. Good, i want to get at the onboard air soon too and take out my rad to have it properly flushed at the same time.

 

[Fantom]

Yes, between school and everything else, I haven't had time to sit down and draw them up. But will ship them off soon. Also I have to fill a minimum order size so I might have to get something else in there, I'll see.


...and I might just hold off on posting anything else till I finish...

 

[canucksafari]

How will that pipe compare to a cast manifold in terms of holding heating and taking heat? I am guessing it will flow better than most cast manifolds. Is it worth considering to have a cast or steel manifold ceramic coated?

 

[Fantom]

How will that pipe compare to a cast manifold in terms of holding heating and taking heat? I am guessing it will flow better than most cast manifolds. Is it worth considering to have a cast or steel manifold ceramic coated?

The flow of the exhaust gasses likely doesn't have much to do with the material it is made out of, more so with the smoothness and direction of the internal routing. Recently I have had a chance to explore many different castings, of manifolds, heads, blocks, turbos, etc. One thing that is constant is that in production castings (which is most) they do not pay attention to anything outside of the visible surface. They machine what they need and disregard everything else as long as it meets minimum specs. The head of the L engine had some left overs from casting (extra steel) branching across some of the cooling chambers. Simply grabbing it with pliers and twisting it off removed the excess in all ports. Basically the finish internally of all castings I have worked with so far has been very poor.
The cast steel manifold (which it is, not cast iron) is fairly thick, and once it absorbs the heat it would take longer to dissipate. I suspect that thinner walls would cool better. The schedule 40 is thinner in thickness, but it is stronger than regular cast, at least from all the abuse I have put it through in many different applications. I have tried ceramic coating on my last manifold. I sand blasted it, prepped it as good as I could and had it coated by Kool Koat in Port Kells. It wasn't cheap. The finish started to rust in a year. It is not totally covered in surface rust. By my standards, it was a waste of money. In the future, I will try powdercoat on the next one.

 

[canucksafari]

Good to know about the casted manifolds and the coatings. I presume the casting of intake manifolds is the same.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

With exhaust manifolds on turbo engines you want to keep as much heat in the exhaust as possible as that is a major component of the energy needed to spool a turbo and keep it responsive.

I view ceramic coating as nothing more than a way to keep a cast manifold from rusting to fast. I do my own though so the cost is minimal and the results are the same or better than commercial ceramic coating.

I would not powder coat an exhaust manifold that stuff melts at 400f (the temp they bake the parts when doing the coating). I have powder coated compressor covers and intercooler pipes with good results (purely aesthetic).

I have made tubular exhaust manifolds out of 316SS pipe, Sch 10 SS and Sch 40 steel pipe. They all worked well and I saw no difference in performance that I could attribute to the material used. The 316SS did crack after 4 years had use but was repaired and is still going strong to this day.

The Sch 10 SS was by far the nicest looking when done after a few heat cycles.

Sch 40 was the cheapest, easiest to work with I saw no down sides other than rusting.

Mat I may get a few flanges done up for my Isuzu engine. Let me know.

 

[baxter650]

Nice to see you are making progress, should make for a nice truck to drive in your retirement years.
Might want to incorperate some form of wheelchair lift to get your busted old ass into it though.

 

[canucksafari]

Might want to incorperate some form of wheelchair lift to get your busted old ass into it though.

I have already been thinking about this for me. Maybe some sort of slider which incorporates a pop-out lift.

 

[baxter650]

I kid of course, i have done nothing to any of my stuff in forever and probably won't till spring.