Died while driving.

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Is there a timing chain?

No timing belt or chain and two items that need to be first verified: got spark and got fuel?

A fairly easy way to check fuel pressure is to squeeze the fuel line hose under cylinder #1 while trying to start it. It should pulsate then firm up. The actual way to check fuel pressure would be to go to Autozone and rent (for free) a fuel line pressure tester. Remove the cold start injector line from where it exits the fuel rail and tap in your tester there. Fuel Pressure should be around 45 psi while cranking.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Here's the timing gears on a 3FE:

 

[Tools R Us]

How do I check the spark? Sorry, amateur here trying to learn. Thanks.

It doesn't matter. If the CEL is not lit with with the key to run, the bulb is burned out or the ECU is not getting power. Without power to the ECU, the motor wont run, injectors wont fire, no spark, etc. No power to the B+ term, equals no power to the ECU, until this is solved, everything else is irrelevant. I'm not the best on 3FE, but the wiring near the EFI relay is suspect on them.

 

[alex4640]

I would focus on the EFI relay area. The wires leading to the bottom of the relay get burnt up due to excessive heat. The contacts can become loose or the wire may have broken/melted. If you remove the windshield washer bottle, the smog pump plastic air handling stuff and the hair dryer blower thing, you get better access.

 

[FJ80SRT]

I would focus on the EFI relay area. The wires leading to the bottom of the relay get burnt up due to excessive heat. The contacts can become loose or the wire may have broken/melted. If you remove the windshield washer bottle, the smog pump plastic air handling stuff and the hair dryer blower thing, you get better access.

ill check this out.

 

[jonheld]

The first thing to check should always be the 3 fusible links off the positive battery terminal. They are subject to vibration and can fatigue over time. They should be changed with every battery change IMO and cost a whole $15.
Once verified, then you can follow a flowchart which will help you with the EFI related circuitry.
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf

If the CHECK ENGINE light is not illuminated with the key in the ON position, this engine WILL NOT FIRE. Full stop.

 

[jonheld]

Check that the check engine light stays on while cranking.

The CE light should illuminate BEFORE cranking the starter with the key in the ON position. This tells you that the ECU is in a "ready state".

 

[FJ80SRT]

The CE light should illuminate BEFORE cranking the starter with the key in the ON position. This tells you that the ECU is in a "ready state".

This is super helpful and makes perfect sense. I will check this out today (once it stops pouring outside). Thanks @jonheld.

 

[Marine7]

Sorry, but you need to “tune everyone out” that isn’t named Jonheld when it comes to the 3FE. Nothing against anyone, but Jonheld is sort of like “The Man on the Silver Mountain”! People come from near and far seeking his knowledge.

 

[jonheld]

Sorry, but you need to “tune everyone out” that isn’t named Jonheld when it comes to the 3FE. Nothing against anyone, but Jonheld is sort of like “The Man on the Silver Mountain”! People come from near and far seeking his knowledge.

Actually, I'm just "some guy".

 

[1911garand]

Don't tune all of us out....I'm still wondering if the poor truck has spark!

 

[Marine7]

Don't tune all of us out....I'm still wondering if the poor truck has spark!

Without the check engine light, prior to starting, who cares if it has spark?! It’s NOT going to start with bad fusiable links....... period.

 

[1911garand]

Ok. I just worry we are sending the fella down a rabit hole without 100% verifying the very basic of basics...thats it. Tuning out now.

 

[Marine7]

Ok. I just worry we are sending the fella down a rabit hole without 100% verifying the very basic of basics...thats it. Tuning out now.

I agree, but to me turning the key, and seeing if the check engine light is on is about as basic as it gets.

 

[jonheld]

Don't tune all of us out....I'm still wondering if the poor truck has spark!

If you re-read post #23 in this thread posted by @Tools R Us, it makes it pretty clear. Without the ECU you've got a very large paperweight.

The ECU MUST be in a ready state before this engine will fire. The CHECK ENGINE light acts as a tally lamp to let you know that it is ready when the ignition switch is in the ON position. Assuming the bulb is not burnt out, if this light is not on, you've got a whole lot of nothing.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Pop in another Efi fuse in the black fuse box in the engine compartment on the drivers fender part no. 90987-02004 Denso. Mike

 

[FJ80SRT]

Hi, Pop in another Efi fuse in the black fuse box in the engine compartment on the drivers fender part no. 90987-02004 Denso. Mike

Did this.

 

[FJ80SRT]

If you re-read post #23 in this thread posted by @Tools R Us, it makes it pretty clear. Without the ECU you've got a very large paperweight.

The ECU MUST be in a ready state before this engine will fire. The CHECK ENGINE light acts as a tally lamp to let you know that it is ready when the ignition switch is in the ON position. Assuming the bulb is not burnt out, if this light is not on, you've got a whole lot of nothing.

"Check for +12 on pin 8 (B+) on the CHECK CONNECTOR mounted on the right side of the fire wall. If +12 on pin 8 and still no CEL, then EFI circuit OK and problem is with ECU or related wiring."

I followed the instructions you made in the pdf document (thanks btw), I do have +12v from the brass terminal screw under the fuse box as well as the fuse link attached to the positive terminal off the battery. However, with the last step, is the "CHECK CONNECTOR" the same as the "diagnostic" box located on the right firewall? If so, this thing seems toast, but it was like that when I bought it. I will post a picture below. Also, still waiting on that fusible link to come in the mail.

 

[FJ80SRT]

"Check for +12 on pin 8 (B+) on the CHECK CONNECTOR mounted on the right side of the fire wall. If +12 on pin 8 and still no CEL, then EFI circuit OK and problem is with ECU or related wiring."

I followed the instructions you made in the pdf document (thanks btw), I do have +12v from the brass terminal screw under the fuse box as well as the fuse link attached to the positive terminal off the battery. However, with the last step, is the "CHECK CONNECTOR" the same as the "diagnostic" box located on the right firewall? If so, this thing seems toast, but it was like that when I bought it. I will post a picture below. Also, still waiting on that fusible link to come in the mail.

View attachment 1850356

View attachment 1850357

View attachment 1850358

@jonheld

 

[Tools R Us]

With the key turned to run, should have close to battery voltage at the B+ term in diagnostic box.