Builds Dave's 80 (1 Viewer)

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@danthman114 , if it is like my 97, it is a dial over on the left hand side of the dash. When I put it in 4WL, it locks the center, then I have a dial for front and rear.
the cdl switch would be to the left of the hazard button and then theres the rotary switch to the left of the steering column.
 
So as I understand it. The center diff locks automatically when the lockers are engaged via dial. The CDl switch would just allow me to override this.
Question
If I add the cdl switch does center still lock automatically? Or do I now have to engage it manually everytime?
 
you can push the cdl switch and it locks the xfer case without locking the axles in. OR you can put it in low and that locks in the xfer case with no cdl switch. then theres the 7 pin mod. you can run it in low without the xfer case locked but I would get the cdl switch if you do the 7 pin mod. if I'm wrong someone can correct me...
I'm not sure if it locks the xfer case when the axles are locked... I never tried...
 
Thank you for the clarification. It's still a little hazy for me though.

I kinda liked the idea that it locked automatically, but I guess the added benefit is worthy of just putting the switch in.
 
Lol! I take a lot of flak for my beer choice.
When its 95 degrees outside and the pbr is ice cold, it doesn't get much better.
 
It wasn' real flak I drink it myself on occasion and although If I love a nice black pint by the time I spend 15 hours 8n an airplane with no a.c. in arkansas I couldn't do the glass of bread. Lol
 
Brake booster check valve did not fix my brakes. Wife drove it today while her 4rnr was in the shop. She texted me with a few choice #$%_! And explained the brakes weren't working.
I guess I'll have to get a new booster. :(
 
Finally by got my rear flare painted and mounted.
I used flat black plastidip. I like the contrast and I'll be painting the rest of the flares to match. I am not sure I'm sold on the plastidip part though. It hold dirt and not easy to clean but it is easy to touch up if it gets scratched. It took me a long time to get this done because I had to order new plastics pins.

I also fixed my saggy hood insulation with some 3m hvac tape.

I've got a new booster on the way from cruiser yard. ( :eek: $$! )That will hopefully fixmy brake problems.

Oh and I also ordered a cdl switch so I can legitimately call my fzj triple locked! :)

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Dude I love the 80! My LX450 is almost your twin (it's green). Even funnier, I'm Dave too!!!!
 
Highs and lows ...

Got a bunch of stuff done.
Replaced my brake booster. Took about 2 hours following a few great threads on the subject here. I had a helper and I think this job would be much harder without a friend. Have you your friend pull carefully but firmly pull the MC back while you wiggle the booster out. Then once you get the new booster in have your friend push against it while you thread the nuts inside. Its also helped to have 2 people when putting the mc back on the booster.
Job done. Brakes work great..and it came with a sticker. :)

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Next up was a new charcoal canister. I went with the autozone alternate, found here on mud. This was a really easy fix and took less than a half hour. No more hissing gas cap and it starts a little quicker too. My lines are in bad shape and I'll replace those soon.
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Lastly I replaced my egr modulator with a new one. $20 on Ebay. I didn't really expect this to fix my cel but lo and behold..I popped the new one and as soon as I started her up the code vanished! Time will tell if it's a permanent fix but for 20 bucks and 5 minutes, I'm happy.
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So, feeling pretty good about myself I took the fzj out for a test drive. The wife tagged along and of course she wanted to go to the grocery store.

The brakes felt great. No more he-man leg presses to stop the truck. P0401 code stayed away.

Overall very pleased.

Then...
Came out of the store and noticed she was taking a leak on the parking lot. Right away I assumed I must have broken one of the brake lines. Nope. I popped the hood and saw ps fluid coming from the back of the pump. Wired thing is it stopped while I was watching it and it hasn't done it again. :meh:

I've been checking the fluid level before every ride and I guess I'll be rebuilding the pump and replacing the lines soon.
 
A little more fixed, a little more broke...

I wanted to drain the coolant since the stuff in the overflow looked like sewage and the upper radiator hose was obviously leaking.

I tried to pull the drain plug but it started making horrible noises like it was gonna break so I left it alone. I already had both upper and lower hoses ready to replace so I just drained the radiator from the lower hose. I ended up cutting it off.
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Same story for the upper hose. I got dayco replacement hoses because that's what the store had. I was a little surprised they had any at all. I'm now glad I got these cheapos because it looks like I'll be pulling the lower hose off at least 2 more times.
Anyway I got about 2and a half gallons out and went to pull the block drain but couldn't get it to move. ( see separate post)
So I put the new hoses on and filled it with some distilled water. I'll run it like this for a while and then drain it again. Hopefully I'll be able to get the block drain out too.
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Looks pretty scary.

Also, ( i should have lead with this), my fzj80 is now officially triple locked! :D
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Dave ... as a fellow owner that seems to be cleaning the cooling system every 5 mins because of stupid PO fixes, you may want to consider putting in an in-line hose connect. I run mine with distilled water, then pull the petcock and let that drain with the truck running and the hose connected adding new water to the system. It works much better with the thermostat out too and access to the petcock is much easier if you remove the fan shroud until you get the system purged.
 

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