Builds Daily Driver 95 HZJ-73

[solomrus]

I've had a break in the action around here, and had a little time to work on the 73.

A few weeks back I had noticed that the throttle was sticking while using the foot feed. Did a little sleuthing and isolated it to the governor shaft on the IP. Spat some lube at it to see if that would loosen things up a bit. It didn't. I walked away from it for a while and when I checked it again, I felt something kind of let loose. et voila! it's moving freely.

So, I started it up to see how it felt from the foot feed. Much better. Stuck my head under the hood while it was idling, and now there's fuel seeping out from under the governor arm on the pump. Let me show you my amused face.

8^| <-- That's it. Right there.

After I got over the initial panic about it. You know, like you do. I started digging around and discovered that one can pull the governor housing cover off without causing too much trouble. There is an o-ring on the shaft that can be replaced which is probably the source of the leak.

Found the p/n's for the o-ring, the washer for the shaft, and the housing seal on Amayama. Small stuff so @OlYellr offered to append them to an order that he was currently putting together. That reminds me, I need to pay him for the parts... Anyways, they showed up and I found a gap in the work to pull mine in.

Last night I moved some stuff out of the way and got to removing the cover. I had found a REAL old thread on a dead Pajero forum (internet is FOREVER!!!) about doing exactly this to a Denso IP. The photos were atrocious but the text was fairly concise. It at least let me know what I was getting in to.

I'm going to save myself thousands of words and insert some pics later today. It ain't just the o-ring causing the leak.

 

[solomrus]

 

[OlYellr]

Let me show you my amused face.

8^| <-- That's it. Right there.

@solomrus's expressions are a lot like an engineer’s (I’m an engineer and I have been told this is accurate). Here are the facial expressions I have seen

= happy
= amused
= annoyed
= tired
= my FJ40 is leaving his property/project over

I can't wait to see what you're finding.

 

[solomrus]

I disagree on the last one. more like this...



--r

 

[solomrus]

sitting here trying to type, and I spend more time making corrections on this stupid Mac keyboard. blech. love the system, hate the interface...

anyway, got it all back together. what I had found was the worn governor arm shaft. you can see in the pics of the arm where the wear is. the shaft was cocking sideways in the cover causing a bind where the arm lives under the cover. that cover is also worn where the lower washer sits between the arm and the housing.

300k/K, probably not surprised. now I'm keeping an eye out for a replacement cover with HAC and a new gov shaft.

the temp fix is to install the new o-ring, and double up the washer to get me some clearance. used the old one and one of the new ones for this. with the wear in the housing it was just enough so that when I put the throttle arm back on there was no interference or binding.

in the old thread I found, they talked about moving the fuel plate to the side to clear the fuel screw when you put the cover back on. I found it much easier to just remove the fuel screw for this. the anti tamper sleeve was still there, so it was pretty simple to get that back where I wanted it.

got it all back together. fired up the first crank, as usual. checked for leaks, and nothing. nice and dry. I will replace the cover and the arm when I locate them. calling it good for now.

I also cleaned up the battery tray and the area where it mounts. looks a little better. I'm thinking about removing the battery cut out switch in the cabin, and wiring that back to stock. it would clean things up under the hood wiring wise, and simplify troubleshooting. I'll decide on that later.

--r

 

[mattressking]

I'll take the spare tire carrier off you if you are no longer using....

 

[solomrus]

thanks for the offer Nate. you'll be the first to know if I decide to let that go. I have a carrier for a 40 that I would let go.

--r

 

[solomrus]

just another good angle.

--r

 

[OlYellr]

I thought I would post what I am finding here - maybe it will help others too...

The governor adjusting shaft is item number 22740 of the drawing for sheet 22-03

Looking that up, I get part number 22740-58480 for R=17.5 - looking around, I can only find it stateside at Toyo Dealerships - not finding it in EU or Japan. 22740-54310 is R=13.3 and is also only available that I can find stateside. I have not looked at the other R value parts as I recall you saying 17.5 is yours.

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just another good angle.

--r

and great to fetch burritos in!!

 

[solomrus]

it is the envy of burrito fetchers around the globe. 8^)

thanks for adding that part number. now, i need to find a cover to go with that.

--r

 

[OlYellr]

I took all the pictures Saturday, so I am going to make the post.

It was hardware mode for the burrito fetcher and this time it was new OEM body mounts and hardware.

Having a lift was clutch as the rear mounts need a bit more lift to get the bolts - the hole and angle to the bolts made it challenging at times.

Here's the carnage from weathering on the bolts/spacers/mounts in the front mount - nasty. Didn't take pictures of the new bolts/spacers

As you moved back to the rear, the bolts/spacers got better - had a few new spacers and ended up wire wheeling some of the better ones - same with the washer and lock nuts.

This shows the bolt condition at the 3rd body mount on the parts diagram.

Comparing old and new bolt (on right) for body mount location #8 (rear) ....

 

[OlYellr]

Continuing...

This is showing rust on the upper portion of body mount 1, passenger side...

and more rust - this is the rear passenger side behind body mount #8...

Cleaned and used some encapsulator to slow it down until another day....

It wasn't hard work, just time and keeping what bold/mount bushing straight - had to lift the body off a bit more to get the rear bolts addressed - having a magnet helped - all in all about 6 hours - took break for burrito naturally.

The front two got all new hardware, bolts, spacer, flange nut, lock nut - the others got a wire wheel and cleaned up nicely. All locations got new OEM bolts.

@solomrus said the driver door shuts better. At first, thought placebo effect. But lets be real, he is exceptionally good at noticing details. When you know you know. His rig sits more level too. The old mounts were shimmed that I believe might have been appropriate long ago, but didn't age well on the rig.

 

[solomrus]

ok, so, yeah, like Yellr says, wasn't too difficult of a job. only the front two mounting bolts needed to be air hammered out, and even then, they only took a couple of hits before they shot out.

getting to the bolts from the inside took the longest, really. pulling up carpet and moving trim panels out of the way. didn't break anything off, so we could have re used most of the bolts. some of the sleeves were pretty grubby, but i think i've resurrected worse.

the strange shims on the left front mount were my solution to the front of the truck looking like it had had a stroke. that corner had a pretty severe droop to it, and those leveling shims were slotted to go around a 3/4" concrete floor anchor. they cleared the sleeve nicely. i think there is still a bit of a droop to that front corner after doing the new mounts. it's not much, but you do notice it with the arb bumper there to give you a reference line. that will drive me nuts, so i'll slide a couple shims back in there to solve it.

the doors do shut more cleanly. still need to align them a little better, but that is satisfactory for now. other things need doing that are more crucial than that.

thanks for all the help with ordering the parts bryan. it's much appreciated. also being willing to help with the labor, priceless. we'll get you more than a burrito next time. 8^) btw, how was that beer that joel got for you?

--r

 

[OlYellr]

how was that beer that joel got for you?

Got it at the ready for my day job if needed.

and speaking of parts....

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new Governor shaft 17.5 is in the works, - Plenty to do before SAS9.

 

[solomrus]

and by plenty you mean what do you mean there are only a few months until the trip...

--r

 

[OlYellr]

Yep. Time is short - heck 1 year ago Yellr was in there for knuckles and brakes - that spread into diffs, u-joints etc.

And Erik and others want some TLC too - so there is plenty of stuff to be done.

and with yours - there is the radiator, the passenger rear window, the rubber under windshield etc.

 

[solomrus]

timing, water pump, t-stat, hoses, install that a/c kit, all the gear oils... electrical... maybe new tires, 24v winch conversion for fun. yeah, just a couple weekends of work.

going to be some long nights.

--r

 

[OlYellr]

timing, water pump, t-stat, hoses, install that a/c kit, all the gear oils... electrical... maybe new tires, 24v winch conversion for fun. yeah, just a couple weekends of work.

going to be some long nights.

--r

I’ll be there

 

[solomrus]

no good pics as of yet...

had to install shims on the LH front body mount to get the front end level in relation to the ARB bumper. looks pretty even now. i'll try to get a good pic of that here in the next few days.

added a couple pics to illustrate it.
--r

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

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Wear looks normal to me. The O-ring takes up clearance and seals the bore. If there is an obvious groove in the housing or unevenness on the shaft, then indeed they may need replacing.

I'd be more concerned with the signs of corrosion on the governor flyweight holder and the HAC actuator link. Maybe these parts were exposed for a long time, but if there is corrosion throught the pump from contaminated diesel, it may wear quickly. It might be worth checking, unless you can see it was fine deeper down.