CV Boot Replacement. . .Help needed

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Foreigner

Foreigner

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Threads
26
Messages
308
Location
The Ozarks
While doing some routine maintenance yesterday, I noticed that my outer CV boots were both split. I have a 460 mile roadtrip planned for next weekend, so I have to fix them NOW.

I talked to a mechanic buddy about it this morning and he recommended replacing the joints and everything while I was in there, since I don't know exactly how long they've been shot and I mostly drive on dirt. He said it would probably be a lot easier as well.

I need some educated guesses on:
-how long to expect it to take (I've read on the web, up to 8 hours)
-what parts I should replace (any good kits?)
-what parts I'm going to break, getting them off
-if I need any special tools

I'm also considering making the switch to manual hubs since I'll have them off anyway.

Any thoughts?
 
Do the manual hub switch NOW. Unlock them, take your trip. Fix the CV boots later when you have more time and aren't under the gun.

Personally, I wouldn't bother re-booting the CVs. I've done the job a couple of times and it's a PITA. Look around for someone that is doing a SAS, buy the entire shafts from them. Swap them in. Done.
 
Foreigner said:
While doing some routine maintenance yesterday, I noticed that my outer CV boots were both split. I have a 460 mile roadtrip planned for next weekend, so I have to fix them NOW.
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Manual or automatic hubs? :confused:...:doh:
What kind of wheeler is it? :confused: What kind of wrencher are you? :confused:

Foreigner said:
I talked to a mechanic buddy about it this morning and he recommended replacing the joints and everything while I was in there, since I don't know exactly how long they've been shot and I mostly drive on dirt. He said it would probably be a lot easier as well.
Click to expand...


Considering how much wear is on them. FYI they DO NOT have the miles you have on the odometer;)


Foreigner said:
I need some educated guesses on:
-how long to expect it to take (I've read on the web, up to 8 hours)
-what parts I should replace (any good kits?)
-what parts I'm going to break, getting them off
-if I need any special tools

I'm also considering making the switch to manual hubs since I'll have them off anyway.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...


My life, being obligated to "on the cheap" I would consider

CV Grease
Break parts cleaner if I could not find a friend with parts cleaner basin first.
spare boots and I think the bands come with them and you can borrow a bander (the thing that simultaneously pulls, crimps and cuts the boot band)


#1: Personally I would pull the hub dial...FLANGE :doh: and remove the axle retainer bolt and washer that will be staring you in the face once you pull the dial.....just the dial!

#2: Then (and this will be hard) remove the flange bolts from the inner joint.

The birfield will be a :censor: to clear the studs so I would consider trying to tap the studs out first.

**NOTE** you can push the grease seal out of the back of the birfild if you try to clear the studs, the axle will push it out from the inside while you are trying to clear it from the studs**

#3: Rotate the diff stub axle flanges where the cut outs will help the Birfild pass it, then once you've got the axle shaft where it will pass the flange it should allow for the shaft to come right out. I would not pull the upper or lower BJ (but thats just me) you can either pay or do what you feel is right.

If you need space since its been a wile since I done it Undo the Diff cover bolt and jack up the diff a little, that should net enough room to pass the shaft.

WARNING: the above is what I would do I am both lazy and do not pay for someone else's labor.


If I had ADD I would strongly consider replacing the shafts entirely

Manual and I would, depending on budget and time clean the joint replace the grease and all or just the broken boots....depends


Now would be a good time to consider this to


my above is based on: if you want to, or can do, and if you have some tools.


Dang it! always see it last! ;p

Foreigner said:
I'm also considering making the switch to manual hubs since I'll have them off anyway.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...


Do this ASAP!
 
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Yup, swap hubs now, do shafts later... Replacing boots is best done before the old boots are shot... After that, as in your case, there are too many unknowns... Which hubs do you have now? ADD is the easier swap...

Do you have a source for some IFS hubs? I have one.... :p I got it as a spare, but then found out that there's very few ways to break an Aisin hub.... If you find another odd single, let me know, and we can make a deal.
 
I have ADD (rather, my 4Runner does).

Great idea, doing hubs now and waiting on the boots, etc. I may just do that. I have a busy week as it is and wasn't looking forward to exchanging sleep for shop time.


I'd still appreciate further suggestions for when I do get to the boots.
 
Is there anything else in there that I'm going to have to replace? Gaskets or anything? What about cone washers?

Also, anybody got an idea on how long this is going to take? I'm used to pulling stuff apart and putting it back together again, just not on autos. I've got a good shop to use, including lifts.
 
Swapping from ADD drive flanges to Locking hubs can take 10 minutes or hours... Depending totally on the cone washers... :D Some people smack the edge of the flange/hub where the washer is and it pops off, some like to get a small screwdriver in the split in the washer... Others go for the oxyacetylene torch after a few minutes.... :D There's some other hints in the FAQ here.

As far as swapping out the axle shafts, that can be an hour to days depending on the luck and approach. Pressing out the studs from the Diff flanges will make it a heck of a lot easier. Get a deep socket and a hefty c clamp, and have a propane torch handy, it may be the difference between easy and no go.
 
Start saving up all sorts of curse words for when you have to remove the 6 nuts on each flange at the front diff. They are a doozy, and SUPER tight.
 
I just air hammered out a stud to test a theory and........yawn


Also you might loosen the nut flush w/ the bolt to give you a better surface to catch with a hammer.
 
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I ordered hubs and half-axles from these guys yesterday. They showed up on my doorstep this morning. I got the hubs on this evening. It was as brainless as stated. The cone washers weren't bad. . .I used a brass punch and a 12 lb sledge on the bolts and they popped pretty easy. It took me about 1/2 hour per side.

Manual hubs look better too. :grinpimp:
 
I don't have time to do the axles this week. . .just needed the hubs on so I could take a trip this weekend. I'm hoping to get to the axles in a couple more weeks.

I looked over the axles I got this morning. The boots are generally in good shape, but I found a couple of pin holes. Now I'm thinking about rebooting them, which sucks since that was the point of getting them anyway. But I can do them at my leisure and then just swap them in.
 
Finally. . .

I finally got to the axles this weekend. I replaced the ball joints as well. Driver side took 6 hours. . .passenger side took 3. I'd say I learned a few things. :D Such as, a hammer and brass bar will fix just about anything, except a lower ball joint. . .what a forking nightmare.:grinpimp:
 
Foreigner said:
I finally got to the axles this weekend. I replaced the ball joints as well. Driver side took 6 hours. . .passenger side took 3. I'd say I learned a few things. :D Such as, a hammer and brass bar will fix just about anything, except a lower ball joint. . .what a forking nightmare.:grinpimp:
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:lol: Thats like the old saying goes, "Theres only two tools you need in life, a hammer, and a crowbar. And if that don't work get a bigger hammer."


:lol: ..................Glad you had fun! :lol:
 
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