Cutting Fenders - What to do with edge.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Delancy said:
To eliminate straying too far from the thread topic, but in line with discussions elsewhere, in using the same formula, concept, design, a 6" lift should clearance 37s, without cutting fenders, and still afford the same travel, correct?

I'm not opposed to cutting, but considering the 162 holes I have to weld, the energy could be allocated elsewhere.
Click to expand...

As for resale - I came out ahead on this truck. Insurance company totalled it for about what I paid for it 7 years ago, then I rebuilt it with an interior my brother gave me a good deal on. Financially, the truck owed me nothing.

With J"s, spacers and a 1" body lift, this truck was pretty close to 6" of lift. It's been a while since I looked, but the 6" kits that were available in the past had same shocks and bumpstops as most 4" kits, so didn't really give any advantage in fitting tires, just trading downtravel for up and gaining some aproach angles.

I'm telling ya', some metal tape and Durabak will take care of those 162 holes in an afternoon.
 
The metal tape just seems half assed (not knocking anyone, whatsoever, since I'll more than likely head that route).

Have to (????) weld the roof rack holes and spoiler holes, and by the time that's done, I may think entirely differently about the tape.

Have time to consternate.
 
Delancy said:
The metal tape just seems half assed (not knocking anyone, whatsoever, since I'll more than likely head that route).

Have to (????) weld the roof rack holes and spoiler holes, and by the time that's done, I may think entirely differently about the tape.

Have time to consternate.
Click to expand...

The thing with tape is you leave the factory paint on the edge of the hole. If you weld then, you burn off the paint and add in some uncoated metal. That's fine on the outside, you're going to prime and paint or prime and line it anyway. What about the back side? Are you going to pull the door panels off, cut through the vapor barrier, coat the back side of the hole you welded, redo the barrier and put it all back together? If not you'll have metal rusting on the inside of all your patched holes. Not that it would rust through in 2 or even 5 years, but it would be rusting, and I would know it. That would bother me as much or more than the tape.

Course, if you're gonna paint, the tape's not really going to be an option.

Tape, weld, cut fenders, uncut fenders, cut fenders with inner fenders, cut fenders without inner fenders - to each his own. I just share what I've done, why I've done it the way I've done it, and people can take it or leave it as they please.
 
i used the metal tape and durabak to cover my holes and it has held up amazingly well. both of these doors have been dragged on the ground through a rut (with enough weight on them that neither of them will open now) and the durabak and metal tape hasnt torn at all.
015.webp
016.webp
 
Last edited:
Walking Eagle said:
I just share what I've done, why I've done it the way I've done it, and people can take it or leave it as they please.
Click to expand...

Beauty of this environment, and all others like it that I've participated in.

Wasn't a knock and that was stated.

Going to see if anyone local can roll the fronts. Cutting every inch, bending, and welding for the front is (46) seams, (54) for the rear, each well.

37s are the new 35s, and the 39s of tomorrow. Might as well be prepared, just a lot of work.

@wv_lx450

As rigid as the liner seems, I would think the tape gives a surface to adhere, but offers little support.

Am I wrong?
 
Delancy said:
As rigid as the liner seems, I would think the tape gives a surface to adhere, but offers little support.

Am I wrong?
Click to expand...

The liner isn't ridgid at all. You can take a piece of metal, put duraback on it and bend the metal back and forth until the metal breaks and the durabak won't let go. Can't speak the the other bedliners. If you use metal tape it's relatively rigid, I mean compared to duct tape, and you make sure it's taught around the edges of the hole, and don't push into the center of the whole (if you do it can show through), and you put two good coats on, you won't be able to tell where the holes are. I only knew where one of mine was cause I pushed into it and it showed a dimple. When I redid them after the fender changes, couldn't see any of them.
 
Walking Eagle said:
Tape, weld, cut fenders, uncut fenders, cut fenders with inner fenders, cut fenders without inner fenders - to each his own. I just share what I've done, why I've done it the way I've done it, and people can take it or leave it as they please.
Click to expand...
See this is what's confusing to me. What is the best way? Or is there no right or wrong way to do it. Are inner fenders really needed?
 
Wrench said:
See this is what's confusing to me. What is the best way? Or is there no right or wrong way to do it. Are inner fenders really needed?
Click to expand...

Oh, I just get tired of hearing how I should have just cut out the inner fenders all together, or should have created the edge a different way, or should have gone smaller tires....

The best way as far as I'm concerned is to create the ledge just like factory. The reasons are -

1. It looks the best.

2. It keeps the mud out of components including the intake (yes, they're really necesarry, or as stated somewhere in this thread you pretty well have to go to a snorkle).

3. You have a smooth edge so if your tire does contact you're not slicing it (or your 4 year olds finger if they run a hand along the cut edge.

4. It gives you a good place to mount rubber flares if needed.


With my tools and capabilities, I decided the way I created the edge was best. Had I to do it over again, I'd do it the same way. I'd probably take the time to do a few more slits to help smooth the radius - I think I did that on the second one. One neat side bennifit was the fenders are now stout!!!
 
No I like how it came out. I can't tell if the are cut or not. They look like factory.
You bring up 4 excellent points. And has swayed my mind. Thx
 
So what did you do to patch the slits on the inner fender? I just pie sliced mine and bent them up but not sure what to do about the slits. I can't weld.
 
If you can't weld, you could pop rivet a piece of sheet metal in, or you could fiberglass the slits (Easier done with fender off)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom