Cutting Fenders - What to do with edge.

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post a pic...
too late now, but you should've left some for "tabs" to bend back and that would've tied them together.
Otherwise, head to Lowes/metal shop and grab some flat stock and tack weld in the right angle .

My horrible attempt to cut the inner liner out and weld the outer back on...
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so I'm jsut going to buy some flat stock and cut and tack to cover it up...

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I need the space of the "front dove"

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CreeperSleeper said:
Personally, I didn't attach the outter fender to the inner fender. I cut 3" out of the outter fender, then built inner fenders out of sheet metal. It's a tight enough fit that it doesn't rattle when the outter fender is bolted back on and it is still easy to remove if needed.

It's in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/204884-some-redneck-bodywork-finished.html
Click to expand...

I had found that thread, and could never figure out exactly how you'd attached inner fender to outer. Guess now I know why!
 
Thanks guys, this clears up what I was confused about on the other cutting fender threads since they didn't really make any mention of attaching the inner fender, even on those that kept it.

My idea involves angle iron, a sharpie, a chunk of plywood, clamps, a cut-off wheel, a flapper wheel and a welder..... It's either going to be really cool, or a complete failure. We'll find out which this weekend I hope.
 
97kurt said:
I would second this. Take a look at this link, they used 3/16 round bar.

4Runner on 35's... | Trails Less Traveled
Click to expand...

That would work in the rear. Not so much in the front. Well, it'd work if I was just going to jamb the inner fender up flush to the outer fender and leave it unattached as others have done.

I know the shape I have in my mind that will work, and I've seen on the web where someone has done it with a hammer form to replace a rusted out piece. The trouble is how to make that shape. The two choices I've come up with is either do a hammer bend shape. Or, cut a bunch of slits in a a piece of angle and try to bend it that way. If I had a bender that would do angle, it would be easier to get a smooth shape. I may end up trying it both ways if the 1st way doesn't give me the result I want. Guess if I did a nice solid hammer form, someone else might be interested in it too :)
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one mostly done, one to go.

Wood buck cut to shape based on what I'd cut off. Angle iron w/ slits cut to allow bending. ( I tried it once without slits, and it twisted too much). Then slit to bend the opposite direction to match the curve of the panel. Holes drilled in fender to spot weld to vertical part of fender. Then welded on the seam. I'll have to clean it up a bit, my welding sucks w/ this new cheap arse flux welder, but really needed a 110v, and majorly broke. So anyway, here's what I ended up with, We'll see how the other side goes. At least I'll probably get another shot at this when I cut the fenders another 1.5" for 44's :)
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and the rear.... It's amazing how hard Durabak is to get off. Plus side is it covers so many sins. Still have to work out the attachment of the inner fender and patch the slits.
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Screwed the inner fender in place, as it was before modifying it all. Now I just need to fill in the inner fender slits. It's certainly been a project ( this Oklahoma 90% humidity is rough) and been a learning experience. I probably should have gone another inch. But can always cut more later and re do the whole deal (ugh). I'm just hoping it was enough. It was barely hitting before, but it looks awfully close at the rear corner. Maybe this week I can flex it or at least pull the spring out.
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patient man, I would (and did) just cut the whole thing out. Nice work
 
believe it or not it's still a little tight when turned jsut right. I need to form that bottom part of the inner fender just a little better - or, take the wheel spacers off. I'm lean'n toward taking the wheel spacers off. The shaddow hides where it's just barely touching. Another 1/2" of trimming, forming that inner fender a little bit (aka hit it with a hammer to flatten it out), despacer it, or put on an adjustable panhard..... Any of these would get rid of this minnor rub. Not sure where the axle is front to back at this point w/ the drop brackets and 1" body lift vs. no drop brackets and no body lift. Pretty good shape straight up and forward.
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w/o wheel turned it actually looks pretty centered w/ about another inch to inch and half to the bumpstop. No bumpstop spacer, so it's pretty hard to get the front to compress that far w/o getting corner to corner on opposite sides of a ditch.
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How big are you wheel spacers? I might buy them if you have 4 of them...
 
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