Crankshaft pulley almost fell off

[JamesR]

Went to parts store so I could fix my daily driver...ended up having to tow the 60 home. Apparently, the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley came off and that caused the pulley to work it's way partially off of the shaft. When it came time to go home, I cranked it and a lot of noise was heard. I cut it off, lifted the hood and saw the pulley. It was crooked.
That was 2 weeks ago. Today (Sat) I crawled under and it appears the shaft is not bent and the problem is indeed the pulley. I've loosened the belts and in the process of getting the pulley back on the shaft.
Back story...about 2 years ago I found this big bolt in the back yard. I thought it might be from my 60. I checked every place I could think of to see where it might have come from. At the time I had a parts 60 and I just figured it came from that one. So if this bolt is the actual bolt I'm surprised this hasn't occurred before now. I hope the pulley isn't ruined.

Part II
That bolt I found in the back yard (3 years ago - not 2) is indeed the bolt for the shaft. I removed the pulley and it appears to be straight. I located, what used to be, the Woodruff key. So I guess I need to purchase a new key and reassemble everything. I must admit, I don't know if I should be aggravated at me for not knowing to check the crankshaft bolt as a part of regular maintenance or be aggravated with the shop that did the engine work right after I bought the truck. Maybe this isn't a unique situation to 60's. I'm clueless in many areas.
I'm assuming the best place to buy a new Woodruff key would be a Toyota dealer?

Once I get the key, I'll need to search the forum and figure out how to reinstall the pulley. Something tells me isn't not as easy as 1, 2, 3.

 

[Spike Strip]

Pix would help, but if you're talking about the 46mm nut that threads onto the crankshaft snout, it has to be torqued to something like 150 ft-lbs (not sure exact #s). If this was removed in the past and not torqued properly, that's why it loosened - or, possibly, the rubber sandwich pulley is falling apart.

Check to see if the key-way on shaft and/or pulley is buggered or not. If yes, you've got more issues. If no, just reinstall key. Pulley is just press on by hand.

Check the rivets holding the pulley halves together. Are they tight? Is there evidence the halves are shifting?

It is difficult to torque the nut down with radiator in place.

 

[JamesR]

Pix would help, but if you're talking about the 46mm nut that threads onto the crankshaft snout, it has to be torqued to something like 150 ft-lbs (not sure exact #s). If this was removed in the past and not torqued properly, that's why it loosened - or, possibly, the rubber sandwich pulley is falling apart.
Check to see if the key-way on shaft and/or pulley is buggered or not. If yes, you've got more issues. If no, just reinstall key. Pulley is just press on by hand.

Check the rivets holding the pulley halves together. Are they tight? Is there evidence the halves are shifting?

It is difficult to torque the nut down with radiator in place.

Thanks for the response.
I removed the pulley and it isn't loose; all the rivets are tight. There is no evidence that anything is shifting. The key way on the pulley is in good shape. I didn't check the shaft yet because it's difficult to see.
I was wondering about the torque numbers and if the radiator needed to be removed.
Is there supposed to be a lock washer used when torquing the nut?
Also, how is the shaft/pulley kept stationery while the nut is being tightened?

Thanks again.

 

[lovetoski]

Also, how is the shaft/pulley kept stationery while the nut is being tightened?

Thanks again.

Put it in gear, ebrake on tight.

 

[Spike Strip]

No washer.

Difficult with radiator and or shroud installed depending on what tools you have. Torque spec is posted in FAQ (don't remember range off hand)... If all you can do is get a socket in there with a breaker bar, use a little blue loctite and tighten it as much as you can with a cheater bar.

I used a 1/2" impact and Blahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahaahahahahahahm!

 

[JamesR]

I really appreciate the help with this.
I'm assuming there is a "ridge" on the shaft to prevent the pulley from being pushed against the timing chain cover.

Thanks again.

 

[JamesR]

Okay - got all the parts removed, welded the key way. I'm waiting on the HB to arrive before I start reassembly. Don't want to have to take it all apart again. I plan on using loctite on the crankshaft bolt. Should I use red or blue?

 

[JamesR]

The HB arrived today. Now I get to reassemble everything.

 

[micruz60]

Lookin' good!

 

[Output Shaft]

This is some heavy r&r.

My thoughts on the HB nut.
These suckers can be a bear to remove when they are installed w/o thread locker and left alone for many years.

I think if red loctite is applied to the threads.... It will never be able to be removed again. So either use blue or nothing.

If nothing, you can always check the torque once a year. If you use blue, there'd be no way to check nut tightness.

 

[JamesR]

Output Shaft, good point about the red loctite. I should have researched the red before I asked the question. I definitely don't want to use the red. Question about your comment "...blue or nothing...if nothing check the torque...if blue no way to check nut tightness". If I use blue and the nut doesn't move, why would I need to check the tightness?
My concern, I really never want to have to do this repair again.

 

[Output Shaft]

The big 46mm HB crank nut likely fell off the first time because it was removed by the PO and not torqued down to spec when he put it back on. These nuts don't have a history of loosening if torqued to spec. I know you're a bit paranoid about it happening again.... But if you torque it to spec without loctite, it is extremely unlikely that it'll come loose.

The problem with even using blue is it will make future removal very difficult. I know you don't ever want to deal with it again..... but what if the new HB isn't concentric? What if your weld makes it wobble and you find out days later and have to take it off again to hone the welds?

You'll be wishing that blue goo never got near the crank's nose.

 

[JamesR]

Your explanation makes total sense. Thanks. I'll torque it. I didn't even thing about my welds messing with the balance, even if it just a little or the HB being untrue...no loctitie for me. If all is well initially, I'll check the bolt ever few months to ease my mind and then yearly as part of routine maintenance.
Thanks again.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And so how is this going?

 

[JamesR]

I have a BSA camp out tonight and tomorrow. I plan on beginning the reinstallation tomorrow. The only other part/tool I need to purchase is the 43 mm socket. I have a torque wrench; I need to check on the drive size. If any one has any recommendations regarding the socket, please share them.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have a BSA camp out tonight and tomorrow. I plan on beginning the reinstallation tomorrow. The only other part/tool I need to purchase is the 43 mm socket. I have a torque wrench; I need to check on the drive size. If any one has any recommendations regarding the socket, please share them.

43? Do you mean 46? For the nut, correct? I borrowed a 1 7/8 standard with a 1" wrench from my neighbor. Saw them listed tho on Amazon, HF, Sears and a variety of other sites.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah I bought my 46mm from amazon for pretty cheap.. currently in the possession of another MUD member or I would send out.

 

[cruisermatt]

This is some heavy r&r.

My thoughts on the HB nut.
These suckers can be a bear to remove when they are installed w/o thread locker and left alone for many years.

I think if red loctite is applied to the threads.... It will never be able to be removed again. So either use blue or nothing.

If nothing, you can always check the torque once a year. If you use blue, there'd be no way to check nut tightness.

Guessing you've never used air tools? I always use red Loctite on crank nuts and have removed them later on. Even after putting miles on said motor.

To the OP:
Red Loctite, torque it to spec and forget about it forever.

 

[JamesR]

I hesitate to ask this because I think I know...but here goes. I need to buy a 46mm socket to reinstall my HB nut. Some dealers advertise a 6 point socket and some are 12. I'm guessing a 12 point allows for more latitude in attaching the torque wrench. Is that the only advantage? Thanks.

 

[Output Shaft]

Get a 46mm 6pt impact socket. 3/4" drive & get a 3/4"-1/2" adapter. The torque wrench has a ratchet.