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- #21
Thanks, will do.
Crankshaft pulley almost fell off
- Thread starter JamesR
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- #22
Okay - today installed the timing gear cover, tried to slide on the HB. It would go on almost half-way. Removed the timing gear cover. I figured I needed to grind down the welds a little more. If I wiggle the HB while I'm pushing on it, it'll move down farther the shaft but I know that with the key in place I won't be able to wiggle it. I fear that if I'm not careful, I'll get the HB in place while working on the test fit and not be able to remove it (don't have a puller) or it'll fit without the timing gear cover but won't fit with the cover in place. I could probably rig up a bottle jack to press the HB in place with the timing gear cover but something tells me that's not a great idea.
Under normal conditions how easily does the HB slide onto the shaft?
Under normal conditions how easily does the HB slide onto the shaft?
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It slides on firm, but slides on all the way. At least my 30 year old one did. The nut wasn't required to crush my HB in place. There was no play in it before tightening up the nut.
I rented a puller at the local parts store to initially remove it. Only a couple bucks.
I rented a puller at the local parts store to initially remove it. Only a couple bucks.
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- #24
Thanks Output Shaft. Good info. I've rented tools before. Forgot about that option.
Sorry, haven't read back thru the whole thread to see if you've mentioned this, but are you keeping the bolts loose on the timing cover when installing the HB? Procedure is to keep bolts loose, center the HB in the seal, then torque the TC bolts to spec, and in proper location.
Just checking
Just checking
- Thread starter
- #26
Sorry, haven't read back thru the whole thread to see if you've mentioned this, but are you keeping the bolts loose on the timing cover when installing the HB? Procedure is to keep bolts loose, center the HB in the seal, then torque the TC bolts to spec, and in proper location.
Just checking
Wow...that would have been a good idea. That makes a lot of sense. So, no I didn't. Here's what I did today, picking up at grinding a little more off the welds...I reinstalled the cover and was able to reinstall the HB. It went on without any problem but not enough for the bolt to catch. I placed the socket over the opening of the HB and used a hammer to tap the HB further onto the shaft so the bolt would catch. I wanted to torque it down tonight but realized my socket wasn't the same size as my torque wrench. So I stopped for today. Next Saturday I'll loosen the timing gears cover and center it. I hope I didn't screw anything up.
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- #27
Spike Strip, I downloaded the FMS. I saw on fig 3-83 that it looks like the crankshaft bolt installs with the bolt face towards the timing gear cover and the the part of the bolt that protrudes facing away from the engine. That's counter intuitive. I watched a you tube video and his bolt was backwards that the illustration in the FMS.
Once you're able to get the HB fully seated with the TC off, then use a thin smear of RTV on the TC gasket and leave the bolts loose, center the HB in the hole (seal) and then tighten to spec and wait overnight for the RTV to cure.
This procedure is in the FSM, along with a diagram of the correct placement and orientation of the Timing Cover bolts.
You didn't screw anything up - but if you run it with the TC off center, you'd prolly get premature wear of the seal.
Also, make sure there's some synthetic grease in the double lip of the seal. Toyota ones come like that from the factory. Aftermarket do not.
Cheers.
This procedure is in the FSM, along with a diagram of the correct placement and orientation of the Timing Cover bolts.
You didn't screw anything up - but if you run it with the TC off center, you'd prolly get premature wear of the seal.
Also, make sure there's some synthetic grease in the double lip of the seal. Toyota ones come like that from the factory. Aftermarket do not.
Cheers.
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- #30
Thank you Spike Strip. ... The fun continues.
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- #31
Another question for the experts...I've read the FSM and I didn't find an answer. I also searched and read a lot of posts; again, no answer. So...I'm assuming that the HB won't go on farther than it should. I don't recall seeing a "stop" ring or raised area on the crankshaft to prevent the HB from getting too close to the timing gears cover. How far down on the shaft does the HB go?
In the pix you posted earlier, it's pretty evident the crank nut won't go on any more than the threaded portion of the crank snout.
HB won't go on more than it should. Push it on until it seats, and you may need some gentle persuasion with a socket and a mallet, then install the cleaned crank nut and torque the crap out of it. In your case, a dollop of blue loctite might be a good idea.
I usually take a scotch brite pad to all those surfaces and manually wire-brush the threads, then clean them up with WD40, then smear with a thin film of antisieze before assembly - Except the threads if you're going to use loctite.
HB won't go on more than it should. Push it on until it seats, and you may need some gentle persuasion with a socket and a mallet, then install the cleaned crank nut and torque the crap out of it. In your case, a dollop of blue loctite might be a good idea.
I usually take a scotch brite pad to all those surfaces and manually wire-brush the threads, then clean them up with WD40, then smear with a thin film of antisieze before assembly - Except the threads if you're going to use loctite.
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- #33
Okay - the nut goes down all the way until the threads end. Thanks. (really appreciate your help)
- Thread starter
- #34
I wish I had foreseen this problem/setback earlier.
I don't have the strength in one hand to hold the nut and tighten the bolt to 145ish torque pounds with the other hand. I saw two threaded holes on the pulley for a tools to remove the pulley. I think I could rig up some type of device using a couple of bolts with a cross bar to hold a pry bar to wedge against the frame while I torque the nut. But, I'm thinking there's a better/easier method to torque the nut. So.... How do you hold the crankshaft/pulley stationary to torque the nut?
Once again - thanks.
I don't have the strength in one hand to hold the nut and tighten the bolt to 145ish torque pounds with the other hand. I saw two threaded holes on the pulley for a tools to remove the pulley. I think I could rig up some type of device using a couple of bolts with a cross bar to hold a pry bar to wedge against the frame while I torque the nut. But, I'm thinking there's a better/easier method to torque the nut. So.... How do you hold the crankshaft/pulley stationary to torque the nut?
Once again - thanks.
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- Thread starter
- #35
You're right - nut is what I meant.
I read your suggestion in another forum on MUD; it was talking about newer trucks and the torque values were a lot less.
I'll follow your instructions - thanks.
I read your suggestion in another forum on MUD; it was talking about newer trucks and the torque values were a lot less.
I'll follow your instructions - thanks.
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- #36
Thank you Output Shaft,
That was a lot easier than I dreamed it would be. I torqued the nut to 150 lbs. I labeled the 3 belts before I removed them. However, my pieces of paper fell off. Next step - determine the correct placement of the 3 belts.
I'm on the downhill side of reinstalling the parts (belts, radiator, shroud, fan, ac , grill).
After several hours of searching and reading posts I have not been able to locate the placement of the 3 belts. Please advise as to the placement of the smaller, small, and large belt. (I remember the largest belt attaches to the outer pulley to the alternator to the P/S pump. I do not remember which belt attaches to the largest pulley (closest to the timing gear cover) then to the A/C clutch. My engine has been desmoged. The other belt goes on the 2nd smallest pulley to what used to be the smog pump. One more thing, what is the trick to install the belts? Even with the belt tension adjusters completely loose the belts are difficult to get in place.
That was a lot easier than I dreamed it would be. I torqued the nut to 150 lbs. I labeled the 3 belts before I removed them. However, my pieces of paper fell off. Next step - determine the correct placement of the 3 belts.
I'm on the downhill side of reinstalling the parts (belts, radiator, shroud, fan, ac , grill).
After several hours of searching and reading posts I have not been able to locate the placement of the 3 belts. Please advise as to the placement of the smaller, small, and large belt. (I remember the largest belt attaches to the outer pulley to the alternator to the P/S pump. I do not remember which belt attaches to the largest pulley (closest to the timing gear cover) then to the A/C clutch. My engine has been desmoged. The other belt goes on the 2nd smallest pulley to what used to be the smog pump. One more thing, what is the trick to install the belts? Even with the belt tension adjusters completely loose the belts are difficult to get in place.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
James have you found it? If not I can link the diagram of the belts here.
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- #38
Nope - no luck. The link would be great, thanks Felicity.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks for the diagram. Good idea to look at vendors. I'll tackle these tonight (hopefully).
