Cracked rain gutter

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gnilwod

gnilwod

Joined
Feb 25, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
20
Location
Atlanta
What are the options for fixing a cracked rained gutter other than removing and replacing the gutter (I’ve heard that’s a pain). Has anyone tried to fix cracks like these with silver solder, brass brazing or Liquid Metal type product (not my favorite idea)? I plan to remove the top from the vehicle to work on it.

I have a feeling this gutter needs to be replaced, but I’m curious about other options before I embark on such a big project.



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You could do epoxy in the cracks. Then a thin coat of white 50 years silicon over top, especially on the top inside of the rail. I think the rail, gasket and the aluminum rivets are available.

Silver temp solder takes a lot of heat and proper flux. Brazing (brass) isn't far off either.

There are threads for the replacement if you search. A few months ago someone had modified like a vice grip tool to set the rivets and was selling it for the cost of the pliers, I think it produced good results. You might want to consider a new head liner too at the same time.
 
gnilwod said:
What are the options for fixing a cracked rained gutter other than removing and replacing the gutter (I’ve heard that’s a pain). Has anyone tried to fix cracks like these with silver solder, brass brazing or Liquid Metal type product (not my favorite idea)? I plan to remove the top from the vehicle to work on it.

I have a feeling this gutter needs to be replaced, but I’m curious about other options before I embark on such a big project.



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Without a doubt.... Use a product called, 'Through The Roof' It is excellent. Wear rubber gloves when applying it.
 
How does the inside lip of the gutter feel. Rusty chips or pretty solid?
As others have mentioned, fixing while still attached to fiberglass is a patch at best.
Is the other side cracked as well, which might indicate the roof rack theory.
Thoughts would be to remove top and separate metal from fiberglass, clean metal, weld, paint and install.
If needing new metal, we’ll just another step in keeping your top healthy.
The new metal from CCOT runs around $460.00. Need rivets also, maybe $12.00.
Yep, it is a job. Best thing is, you can use old metal frame as a template for putting together the new one. I am not a welder and found a shop that will weld for $75.00.
Sorry to say, in the two I have just torn down, are not the best quality in mating glass to metal.
Best of luck.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
You might want to consider a new head liner too at the same time.
Click to expand...

Have an early 78 hard top I would like to replaces the head liner of I could find the pattern again. It is on foam. Person I bought from owned Sedona Adventures and had no use for hard tops or ambulance doors. Guessing some previous owner must have been a Dead Head. If you can't tell the headliner is tie dye.
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charliemeyer007 said:
It looks like to me that roof gutter clamps for a rack caused the cracks.
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Looks like a fifth crack. Guess that make sense. Cracked in one place on the door header let's movebthe clamp to another section of the door header it will probably support better there.
 
coinoperated40 said:
How does the inside lip of the gutter feel. Rusty chips or pretty solid?
As others have mentioned, fixing while still attached to fiberglass is a patch at best.
Is the other side cracked as well, which might indicate the roof rack theory.
Thoughts would be to remove top and separate metal from fiberglass, clean metal, weld, paint and install.
If needing new metal, we’ll just another step in keeping your top healthy.
The new metal from CCOT runs around $460.00. Need rivets also, maybe $12.00.
Yep, it is a job. Best thing is, you can use old metal frame as a template for putting together the new one. I am not a welder and found a shop that will weld for $75.00.
Sorry to say, in the two I have just torn down, are not the best quality in mating glass to metal.
Best of luck.
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The inside looks solid. There is just a little surface rust at the cracks, but nothing deeper. The passenger side is cracked as well, although not as bad. Roof rack as a cause is a good theory.

I plan to remove the top and survey the full extent of damage. I will attempt to patch these cracks and see how it looks. If I’m not satisfied, I can always remove the gutter and weld (that seems like the “right” way to fix it but I’m trying to avoid it).

I have a new CCOT headliner to install before I reinstall the roof. I will replace all the seals as well.
 
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IF the cracks are just through the vertical lip and don't carry on through the joining face I would mig them up, clamp a damp rag along the bottom face and around the surrounding fibreglass. You could put a block of copper behind the weld, too, the more heatsink the better. You're only looking at 3 or 4 little squirts of weld per crack.
 
coinoperated40 said:
Did you add, what looks like larger rivets on the back corners.
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No, same size rivets but I had to drill 'em out & re-install upside down as I messed up the topside holes in the fiberglass and the other side of the rivet is much bigger. Those are the rivets supplied by CCOT with the rain gutter kit. Rookie move, but I'm a rookie. The seam sealer covered 'em up. hehe
 
anothernz45 said:
IF the cracks are just through the vertical lip and don't carry on through the joining face I would mig them up, clamp a damp rag along the bottom face and around the surrounding fibreglass. You could put a block of copper behind the weld, too, the more heatsink the better. You're only looking at 3 or 4 little squirts of weld per crack.
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My concern is warping the fiberglass.... if that happens the project will get even more involved. Heat sinks should work, but makes me nervous
 
gnilwod said:
My concern is warping the fiberglass.... if that happens the project will get even more involved. Heat sinks should work, but makes
Click to expand...

gnilwod said:
My concern is warping the fiberglass.... if that happens the project will get even more involved. Heat sinks should work, but makes me nervous
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Not enough weld to warp anything. Put a damp rag along bottom face then clamp a piece of 3/8 x 2 over it long enough cover all the cracked area plus some. Copper block behind each crack as you go. Wipe down with damp rag after each crack is done, the idea is not to scorch the fibreglass. Get some help if you're not confident with a mig, a crack repair is easy but filling a burn through gets less so.
 
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