Build COS80's 1997 LX 450 Build Thread

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Back in February, I discovered my speedo was dead-nutz with 33s, and since there wasn't a Lutz box underneath, I was baffled at how it was corrected.

Earlier this week, I was cleaning out the glove box when I rediscovered instructions for setting up a Dakota Digital SGI-5E. An email to the PO confirmed it was behind the PS kick panel, and lo and behold, tap-tap-tap, and my speedo's perfect again with the new 35s. 👍 👍

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This box appears to be out of production, but it still works just fine, and it was "free".
 
Today, I completed the first things I've been able to do since being taken out of commission in October: 1) I completed reinstalling everything from getting my PS seatbelt retractor refreshed by safetyrestore.com, and 2) I finished installing my underhood lighting kit.

The seatbelt retractor works much better.

The lighting kit is a nice kit, but whether the led strip can bear the heat remains to be seen. I also have to say I'm not impressed by their non-existent customer service: I emailed them to buy more of their 3M zip tie mounts, and they never even bothered to answer.

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My truck came with a dual battery system inc. a BlueSea isolator and a switch. There's a Slee dual battery monitor on the dash, which has behaved erratically since purchase. On long days, it puts on a Pink Floyd light show for me. I did a bunch of (flawed) testing, replaced the switch (it broke) and the isolator (recommended by PO), and had concluded, for a minute, that the Slee LEDs were malfunctioning, but just as I started accumulating parts to remove it, I did one more test and determined that I was losing a volt between the battery and the isolator. I traced down that cable and wondered if there could be something wrong with the Megafuse on that line. It does have some corrosion and one of the nuts didn't feel as tight as it should have been, so I replaced it.

I uprated it to ensure it could carry full alternator voltage at 200*F. I slathered all the mating surfaces with conductive grease. So far, it appears to have worked - Pink Floyd packed up their kit and headed back to the UK. I'll know for sure on the next long trail ride.

Side note: I'm really disappointed in BlueSea's customer service. They were responsive in the past, but its been a whole month and they still haven't responded to any of the three messages I sent them in trying to troubleshoot this system.
So it turns out Pink Floyd never left the building after all. Right before my last trail ride in October, I found the real culprit was a detached ring connector all along. The PO soldered all the connectors, but he didn't crimp them. Tonight, I finally fixed that permanently.

I got this hydraulic crimper, good for up to 4/0 AWG, and some big, red heat shrink. First I got some with the adhesive in it, but I really dislike how hard it is to remove, so I got this regular/no glue stuff. I crimped the connector (could have done that a little cleaner - the rest will have to be done on a workbench, not in the car) after painting the inside with flux, and then I soldered it for good measure. You can see it makes nice, hexagonal crimps and is fairly easy to use/powerful.

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When I can stand all day, again, I'm going to remove all the large-gauge cable and crimp all the connectors.

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It is always the most basic things that we always forget to check first 😂
I didn't forget. I measured continuity on every wire, probably 50 times, and it always checked out fine. I finally found it by wiggling stuff and watching the battery tender on the dash in a f%^&ing mirror!
And man, we are the opposite when it comes to heat shrink, cuz I love the ones with glue in it.
With this big gauge stuff, you won't if you ever have to make a repair.
 
What size is that battery?
 
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XXL

I forget. I'll check for you tomorrow.
The top of mine looks same. It’s an X2 brand from batteries plus bulbs group 31.
 
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Today I completed the interior renewal of my antique jerry cans. I lined them with a KBS motorcycle tank lining kit. The final step, installing the lining, was supposed to take ~1 hour... it took SEVEN. The design of the jerry cans makes them impossible to empty, and emptying the excess lining in the first 30 minutes is key; otherwise, you have to rotate them every two minutes -- yes, every two minutes -- until the material sets up. That's after a good 40 hours of stripping, cleaning, and etching, too. I'd have to say most people would be better off buying new.
 
Is that a fuse panel right behind your battery on the drivers side? Did you fabricate a bracket or is that something that is out on the marketplace?
 
Is that a fuse panel right behind your battery on the drivers side? Did you fabricate a bracket or is that something that is out on the marketplace?
No, there's a homemade bracket for the battery switch, a couple megafuse holders, and a plastic "hobby box" that i have yet to open and discover its contents, all from the PO.
 
Today I completed the interior renewal of my antique jerry cans. I lined them with a KBS motorcycle tank lining kit. The final step, installing the lining, was supposed to take ~1 hour... it took SEVEN. The design of the jerry cans makes them impossible to empty, and emptying the excess lining in the first 30 minutes is key; otherwise, you have to rotate them every two minutes -- yes, every two minutes -- until the material sets up. That's after a good 40 hours of stripping, cleaning, and etching, too. I'd have to say most people would be better off buying new.
Here's what really sucks... this morning I see that, despite my best efforts to evenly distribute the excess material, the slug that froze in each can formed bubbles overnight. KBS says bubbles may lead to premature failure.
 
Here's what really sucks... this morning I see that, despite my best efforts to evenly distribute the excess material, the slug that froze in each can formed bubbles overnight. KBS says bubbles may lead to premature failure.
You got pics of your antique Jerry cans?
 
1973???
 
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