Need the connecting rod dimensions for a 2F that i'm working on, should be interesting to see what comes out of it when finished. Couldn't find the dimensions in a manual or online.....unless im looking in the wrong place?
Con-rod dimensions for hi-po build
- Thread starter Thebedouin60
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Long and heavy are two words that come to mind although they are not very specific. I tried to build a "performance" 2F. It was maginally successful at best. Eventually you have to face the truth that going to a V8 is the most logical and cost effective way to make the tank accelerate.
Agreed...^ ^ ^
I built a $9-$10K 2F with all the bells and whistles, decked head w/ performance valve springs, new guides, custom-honed valves, overbore pistons, RV cam, Top-of-the-line rings and bearings, Offy intake, balanced crank, 4BBL...the works. Bumped HP by about 15%. Just not worth it, overall. If it's gonna be a 2F, I'll take OEM longevity over slight performance gains every day of the week. Otherwise, just buy a crate 350.
It would be cool to stuff a Supercharged 1FZ-FE and A343F under the hood of a 60 though...
I built a $9-$10K 2F with all the bells and whistles, decked head w/ performance valve springs, new guides, custom-honed valves, overbore pistons, RV cam, Top-of-the-line rings and bearings, Offy intake, balanced crank, 4BBL...the works. Bumped HP by about 15%. Just not worth it, overall. If it's gonna be a 2F, I'll take OEM longevity over slight performance gains every day of the week. Otherwise, just buy a crate 350.
It would be cool to stuff a Supercharged 1FZ-FE and A343F under the hood of a 60 though...
- Thread starter
- #4
I have a 1FZ-FE with H150F manual transmission thats waiting to be dropped in, if i go down that route, i have to change the engine mounts (move back approx 12-15in) and the shifter assembly moves back about 4 inches from where it is, not a major problem at all, the issue will be wiring up the damn thing because no one is any good out here in that area of expertise.
Theres something about the 2F that makes me want to keep it in the rig, but i NEED more power, our road laws don't allow increased number of pistons so V8 is not an option, a 6cyl rig stays a 6cyl rig. So either build a 2F or swap in the 1FZ.
Theres something about the 2F that makes me want to keep it in the rig, but i NEED more power, our road laws don't allow increased number of pistons so V8 is not an option, a 6cyl rig stays a 6cyl rig. So either build a 2F or swap in the 1FZ.
The 2F/3F engines are just not good for building high-performance. They have very constricted heads, long spindly connecting rods and a massive crankshaft that's supported by only 4 main bearings instead of the usual 7.
Honestly wiring is not hard. Just take your time, do one wire at a time.
Honestly wiring is not hard. Just take your time, do one wire at a time.
I don't know what you can get your hands on in Dubai, but the 300 Ford I6 is a bomb proof work horse with very strong torque. Other than that, what worked best for me was stock valvetrain with lash at .005" intake and .007" exhaust, milled head (I went -.070") a header, Weber 38/38 carb and a recurved distributor. That was the best running 2F I ever drove. TBI conversions (again, I don't know what you can get) are a great way to bump up the 2F and would probably be my first choice if I had to run a 2F.
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I believe Mace put a small block Ferd in his 60...
- Thread starter
- #10
Engine work is very cheap here and decent, so i would only be considering the parts for the 2F (hi-comp pistons, cam and valves + springs) The 2F isn't bad in the sand, i can go where anyone else does, but where i get completely and utterly frustrated is on those long and steep climbs where the stock motor just falls flat on its face. I thought by having a hi-po rebuild i could get more out of it in terms of torque and mid-top end punch which is where the 1FZ makes things much more doable, the H150 tranny also has syncro mesh which will allow me to shift quickly - important when i need a gear at an extreme angle on sand......but it takes me back to the major problem....wiring 
You may need to consider getting your power through gearing rather than through engine power...not much can compare to the low-end torque of the 2F.
2F + hill = gears. my machinist swears that the larger exhaust valve will give me more usable power band, I keep trying to tell him it won't matter....and I keep hoping I'm wrong
2500 bucks later, and I'm over it...it is what it is; a tractor.
Forced induction is to a slow motor what alcohol is to ugly people; the only way to get action.
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Wristpin diameter- .990"
Length- 7.50"
crankpin bore= sumthin fudged up metric.
Why leave 2 critical dimensions in imperial, and then metrify the 3rd critical dimension? I dunno.
For fun, here's a pic of a BBC rod and a 2F rod. Hard to tell them apart.
Length- 7.50"
crankpin bore= sumthin fudged up metric.
Why leave 2 critical dimensions in imperial, and then metrify the 3rd critical dimension? I dunno.
For fun, here's a pic of a BBC rod and a 2F rod. Hard to tell them apart.
- Thread starter
- #19
Great, so i've got something going with carillo rods back in sand land, now i need the Con-rod bolt dimensions as i cant find them online either.
Heres what i got from another thread, can someone confirm this?
The Knurl 10.25mm
Thread 10.00mm
Length from under the head of the bolt 56.00mm
The only other way i can see getting the numbers i need is to order a stock new bolt and have it measured. I live in a major city and i dont have the equipment to do so even if i had the bolt and its accompanying nut. I plan on winding out the motor a little more than 4k
I've also heard rumors that these will work too:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-6001
Heres what i got from another thread, can someone confirm this?
The Knurl 10.25mm
Thread 10.00mm
Length from under the head of the bolt 56.00mm
The only other way i can see getting the numbers i need is to order a stock new bolt and have it measured. I live in a major city and i dont have the equipment to do so even if i had the bolt and its accompanying nut. I plan on winding out the motor a little more than 4k
I've also heard rumors that these will work too:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-6001
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The carillo folks should supply bolts or dimensions.