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Complete Swap?

Discussion in 'HardCore Corner' started by Project60, Aug 23, 2006.

  1. Project60

    Project60

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    I am planning out my build up of my 83 FJ60 - 233k miles, bad clutch, needs engine rebuild, tires, rusty. I was going to rebuild everything, frame up. I am thinking of doing a 350 conversion. I am going to rebuild all the axles, tcase, etc. - not sure what I want to do for an engine/tranny yet, still deciding.

    In looking for an engine on craigslist.org I found whole suburbans (1/2 ton and 3/4 ton) for like $800 to $1500. Some with 454's, some even have 35" tires included.

    Since I have to rebuild all toyota stuff (seals, bearings, etc.), would it just be cheaper to get a donor chevy vehicle and swap everything over - engine, tranny, tcase, axles? It has to be cheaper to rebuild all this stuff and it cuts the need for adapters out.

    Thoughts? anyone done this? What vehicle would be the best donor, or would it be better to try and cobble it all together?
     
  2. Project60

    Project60

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    Other posts

    Found this post:
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=10014&highlight=np205

    Quote from Woody:
    "IF I were building the truck, my choice would be:
    350 SBC, SM465 or 350 auto, 205 t-case, 14-bolt rear, D60 front, SOA on CCOT HFS stock-height springs. The 60 is a lot of rig, and you'll need some balls to move it around, and some suspension beef to keep it working well.

    (honestly, the drivetrain from a 78-ish Chev 3/4 ton is the perfect all around doner for the whole project...just add springs and change driveshaft lengths)"

    Thoughts???
     
  3. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    3/4 ton chevy is gonna be a D44. Get a 1 ton SRW and swap everything in...
     
  4. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    X2.


    Do not even waste you time with building a Toy axle or a 44 for the front of this truck.
     
  5. bandy rooster

    bandy rooster

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    yea i bought a 3/4 ton chevy suburban when i did my build or else i would have swapped the axles as well i think it was just lousy 10 bolts... but that engine had a 700r4 and what i believed to be a NP208....

    on a fj60 i def. want dana 60's with that much weight and power.

    I went with the sm465 and went to a cruiser t-case ( i just like manual transmissions) and kept my cruiser axles, if it was a 1 ton truck that would be a diff. story. But I wouldn't keep the cruiser t-case then go with d-60's as that would be some expensive d-shafts.
     
  6. Project60

    Project60

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    Any specifi\c 1 Ton

    Will check into the 1 ton SRW to see what I can find for cheap. Any specific years? I know the engine and tranny will vary with years, but any specific years for good axles, driveshafts?

    Swap in the front axle too, or stay with toy front axle?

    I presume the 1 ton SRW axle is the Dana 60 front, Dana 70 rear? pardon my chevy ignorance.
     
  7. Project60

    Project60

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    Can I swap in the 1/2 ton or 3/4 axles for a while until it is necessary to upgrade the axles to D60/D70?

    I just think it would be easier to swap it all and then go back and find the larger 1 ton axles later.
     
  8. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    Replace Toy axles with same or less Chevy quality resistance axles . ?

    I underestand the swap if you flan to run D60 axles or 14 Bolt, to handle 44"

    IMOP .. !
     
  9. Project60

    Project60

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    Good point. Thanks all for the input!
     
  10. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    3/4 ton will probably be a 14 bolt rear, very strong axle. So it is mostly the front axle that is the issue.

    A D60 is mostly a direct swap for a D44, but it realy is a better idea to just get it up and over with in one fell swoop..
     
  11. LandCruiserPhil

    LandCruiserPhil Peter Pan Syndrome Supporting Vendor

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    Did this back in 86 ...drive train out of new Burb 350TBI 700r 208 and rear Dana 44 out of a Scout II.

    Before everybody starts screaming. I still have it and it has wheeled all over the western US and Mexico solo and its the most reliable vehicle I ever owned. The only failure was a rear R&P at 160,000. It sit now with 176,000 on this set up on an the all original drive train.
     
  12. Project60

    Project60

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    Mace,

    So I could do a complete 3/4 ton swap and find a D60 front axle separate?

    I can use the front drive shaft from the 3/4 ton (D44?) axle?

    EDIT: If I am running smaller tires 31-34", will the D44 hold up?
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2006
  13. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    If you are onyl doing 31 to 34" tires there is no need to swap axles..


    Just get an adapter to run the Stock Tcase with a V8 and auto
     
  14. Project60

    Project60

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    Thanks for the info. I think I will save this upgrade for later.
     
  15. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    I thought you can handle 37" to 38" easy wioth stock soy axles .. without lockers .. rear isn't the problem .. but more than 35" with front lock I think is nice idea go for cromo set ..
     
  16. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    with a locker stock birfs can break with 33's..

    35's locked will snap birfs easily.

    Unlocked, you are probably fine for a long time..
     
  17. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    I do for years nice mud ( yea not like a rock ) wheeling with my 33" baja claw and after general grabbers in 33" and 35" ( 35" for short period ) with my both ARB without problems ..

    Again mud is very diferent like rocks ..
     
  18. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    An ARB makes things a lot easier, you turn it off when you are backing up with the wheels turned. An autolocker is a lot harder on components..

    Mud is MUCH more forgiving than rocks for breaking axle shafts.

    There are 1000 hp mud trucks that run 44" tires and D44's without issue..
     
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