So I was driving back from the bank and my 1991 80 series just stopped running. I started checking the usual suspects EFI relay, fusible link, battery cables. None of that made since because I still had CEL. Waited 5 minutes and cranked and it started. I parked it at the house and now it won't start again. I checked the codes on it and got 4 different ones. 14,24,28, and 31... This is pointing towards AFM and Igniter and the O2....my question is what do I start with? Any ideas. Do I just find a used Igniter and AFM or is there some steps to go through first??
Code help! Car wont start! (1 Viewer)
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Won't crank, or cranks but won't fire?
Does it crank, fire, and die after releasing the key from the start position? Or does it never fire while cranking?
Also, you should pull the 15 amp EFI fuse in the relay box on the left fender for 5-10 minutes and let the ECU reset. This clears out old codes and relearns all the sensors.
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- #6
Does not show any sign of spark unless I use starter fluid. Just a strong crank and nothing.
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- #7
Will do, I'll be back to the house in an hour or so. Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated.
Did you check the fusible links (3 of them) with a meter?
Below is a cursory check of all 3 fusible links in system. This assumes an unmolested OEM configuration.
FL AM1 - Dome lights working?
FL AM2 - When you turn the key to ON does the CHARGE LAMP light up?
FL MAIN - Brake lights working?
If yes to all 3, then all 3 fusible links are intact.
If you're getting spark, but no fuel you can try jumping pins 1-8 (FP-B+) on the diagnostic connector on the firewall. This bypasses all fuel pump logic and should fire the fuel pump with the key in the ON position, assuming you're getting +12 to pin 8. Make sure you clean out the 33 year old grease that Toyota used on the diagnostic connector first.
If the fuel pump does not run, inspect connector BO1 under the body by the C pillar on the left side. All fuel pump power runs through this connector and it is exposed to the elements.
If the fuel pump does not run, inspect connector BO1 under the body by the C pillar on the left side. All fuel pump power runs through this connector and it is exposed to the elements.
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- #10
It is unmolested. Yes to all 3 fusible working. I also changed the main link at the battery for good measure. Pulled the 15 fuse let it sit for 10 still get all codes but the 02 sensor now. I pulled spark plug wire one and tested it to a ground and evidently there is no spark. Dunno why there was before but now there is not. Which actually makes more since if it was throwing the igniter code anyway.
Igniters do fail. I was on my 3rd one when I sold my 91.
What is the "main link at the battery"??
Pull the cap and inspect the rotor and the spring loaded button in the cap just for fun.
It's possible that the carbon tracks in the VAF have worn through.
I am assuming that the VAF on the 3fe has the same connector, probably similar resistance numbers, but you should look for the 91 FSM to be sure. This image is from the '94 FSM.
this is from the "volumeai" pdf in the SFI System folder.
DO NOT mess with screws on the connector. the cable releases via a spring clip.
Some people have reported that they were able to subtly adjust the position of the board inside the VAF so that the wipers ride on a slightly different part of the carbon track. Accessed by cutting through the soft glue holding on the plastic lid.
I am assuming that the VAF on the 3fe has the same connector, probably similar resistance numbers, but you should look for the 91 FSM to be sure. This image is from the '94 FSM.
this is from the "volumeai" pdf in the SFI System folder.
DO NOT mess with screws on the connector. the cable releases via a spring clip.
Some people have reported that they were able to subtly adjust the position of the board inside the VAF so that the wipers ride on a slightly different part of the carbon track. Accessed by cutting through the soft glue holding on the plastic lid.
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- #13
The fusible link attached to the battery is what i replaced. So before I even read this a friend of mine that is an actual mechanic not some wannabe like I am came over to look through everything. We pulled the 15 amp fuse and that dropped off the 02 code but the others stayed. So he went to work testing. The ignition coil is good so he went to the distributor. It was corroded and the ohms readings were way off. I forget off hand what he said they were supposed to be but they were way over that. So I'm starting there. The distributor should be in on Monday. He couldn't stay long but said he was going to look through the field service manual tonight and we'd just go through it this weekend piece by piece.
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- #14
I'll make sure to write a detailed update once I know more because seeing 4 codes pop up at once really sucks. Thanks for everyone's help. The more I dig into the mud forum the more I'm amazed how much you guys know.
There are 3 fusible links attached to the positive battery terminal and they come as 1 piece. Part number 90982-08264. 2 have ring terminals that go to the black junction box (82670-60040) and 1 has a grey connector. I'm assuming that's what you mean by "main link".
Page 3 of my EFI diagnostics document has a snip from the 1991 Toyota FSM regarding the testing of the distributor pick up coils. I recommend reading through the entire document.
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- #16
Thanks, I will give it a read today. Thanks for being so helpful!There are 3 fusible links attached to the positive battery terminal and they come as 1 piece. Part number 90982-08264. 2 have ring terminals that go to the black junction box (82670-60040) and 1 has a grey connector. I'm assuming that's what you mean by "main link".
Page 3 of my EFI diagnostics document has a snip from the 1991 Toyota FSM regarding the testing of the distributor pick up coils. I recommend reading through the entire document.
Don't be fooled. I'm mostly an a$$hole. Ask my wife.
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- #19
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- #20
So got the distributor installed and while we were there we replaced the plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. Then she fired right up. No codes except the O² code. The timing was a little off so we adjusted the timing a bit and now she runs better than before. The only issues I have noticed is a bit of a high idle that doesn't come down after warming up. I'm thinking maybe I just need to drive it some so the computer can relearn? If not I do have a TPS and an IAC I've had in the just incase parts. I still think the codes it showed are strange for a bad distributor. Any idea why it threw a code for the AFM. I mean I kinda get the igniter code. Anyway just happy she's running once again.
